BlackRocket

Here is the setup that i want to run
1996 Honda Civic Hatchback
B18C JDM ITR
J's Intake
Custom exhaust no cat with Skunk 2 muffler
stock jdm 4-1 header
NGK plugs
ACT Heavy duty clutch 6 puck
ACT streetlite flywheel 12lbs
75 wet shot of nitrous (ZEX)
does anyone have any other suggestions on what i should get to give me a little more horsepower or any suggestions on my setup i figure this will put me in the mid to high 12's i am just hoping for a little more power for insurance i dont have much money left after this setup so if anyone has any suggestions that would be cool thanx

NotUrAvgSi

I would definetly scratch the nitrous!!! just not my thing. Im not sure what your goals are but thats a pretty good start. Since you are going all motor get the TODA individual throtle body setup or the TWM which are a bit cheaper.

Archidictus

My advice: leave your catylitc converter in there and don't spray it. Build the head with some better cams, get her tuned and call it a day.

BlackRocket

yea throttle body and intake manifold i thought would be another good start. i dont want to get too much n/a stuff b/c i think i am going to go high compressiono low boost in the future. the nitrous is just to start me off with this new car and make it a pretty quick car for the time being

NotUrAvgSi

Alot of people cant control themselves with nitrous they will keep using it and using it and thats going to screw the motor. Plus its going to get expensive reffiling that bottle. (Nitrous+Turbo on a stock motor) Probably not a good idea

jDmImagE

^ Definetly not a good idea...i would just up the compression and get some bigger cams, that will get you more power.

BauleyCivic

See my title for my opinion.

Nitrous sucks, get turbo.

dohcMONSTER

Jun valvetrain and cams, hondata and tuning

jdm123

6 puck is pretty mean engagment for a daily driver

BlackRocket

im not going to keep the nitrous when if i go turbo. i might up the valvetrain and get some nice cams and also up the compression like jdmimage said, but i would keep nitrous on it too. i have had nitrous on my last car and put nitrous on my buddies car so im decently experienced with it. i am not the type of person to hit to button all the time and be spraying from light to light or anything. just use it for big races.

BlackRocket

6 puck is pretty mean i might decide to go with a 4 puck

jDmImagE

I have a six puck in my car and its not as harsh as everyone says...i guess im just used to it by now.

BlackRocket

i kind of want to go with the 8lb flywheel but is that too aggressive for a daily driver, and will it be hard to get it in gear without reving so fast and having to peal out everywhere

ABK

nitrous on a type-r sounds kind of ifffffy. Especailly with that shot. Something is prolly going to go wrong. Plus if it's your daily driver might want to focus on a street disk instead of 6 puck.

BlackRocket

the motor can handle the shot as long as i maintain it well. there are lots of R's running 75 shot no problem, if things do go bad i was planning on rebuilding it anyways so it will just make the process go along faster. the most ill do is blow a ring or rod or something. that aint that much money to replace. if im wrong tell me and if they have experience blowing up motors with nitrous tell me so i can see what happened to some setups

BlackRocket

"i kind of want to go with the 8lb flywheel but is that too aggressive for a daily driver, and will it be hard to get it in gear without reving so fast and having to peal out everywhere. also anyone with experience blowing up motors with nitrous tell me so i can see what happened to some setups"

00Red_SiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SprayinR21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">"i kind of want to go with the 8lb flywheel but is that too aggressive for a daily driver, and will it be hard to get it in gear without reving so fast and having to peal out everywhere. also anyone with experience blowing up motors with nitrous tell me so i can see what happened to some setups"
</TD></TR></TABLE>

That lightweight flywheel isn't to "aggressive" for the street but you will lose some inertia off idle so if you drive in a lot of traffic you may want a slightly heavier one.

That R motor will be just fine on a 75 shot and I think it is a good cheap alternative to give you the power you want until you go boost. I remember I started out with just a DC header, axle back exhaust, CAI and a ZEX nitrous kit set at 75 hp on my SiR and ran a 13.98 @ 102.4 mph in the quarter. I ran against a 90 civic hatch with a b16 in it and a JRSC on it with Hondata and a lot of other mods and he ran the same time as me and he had slicks, I had burnt off Azenis tires. I looked at his tuned dyno graph and he had 212 hp and 166 lbs of torque with his setup. I dynoed mine and put down 212hp and 177 lbs or torque, so you can see that you don't have to spend money to go fast. Using nitrous properly and responsibly will save you a lot of money and still allow you to go fast without reliability issues.

BlackRocket

thanx man 13.98 i/h/e and a 75 wow those are good numbers. i think i am going to try the 8 lb flywheel and if i think its too light ill switch it to a 12lb

jDmImagE

if you're gonna get a six puck DON'T get an 8lb. flywheel...get a 12lb. one.

BlackRocket

whys that whats the difference i guess i dont know

Ricey McRicerton

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">My advice: leave your catylitc converter in there and don't spray it. Build the head with some better cams, get her tuned and call it a day.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Agreed.

fasterhatch

im still not convinced on the nitrous. you'll have high compression with that swap. if you are going turbo, internals are a must so to save money, if that is what you are doing, why dont you get a different/cheaper swap like gsr or ls-vtec (which has proved very worthy). that way you dont have to worry about the miles on the motor and if you do the ls-vetc it'll be cheaper for the internal install when the non-vtec head is being replaced. plus the ls block is srtonger. even an all-motor set-up with a built LS-vtec will smoke 13.98. very important though is going HONDATA

BlackRocket

i thought about going gsr but i just dont want to b/c everyone whos anyone has a gsr or ls/vtec in minnesota, expecially in the cities. i want something different and love the type r motors, they have tons of potential. the motor will be built for boost if and when i do it. i wont just put on a turbo and let her buck. i will be using uberdata to tune it at all times. plus with the type r it comes with a strong and nice factory lsd, which i would need to get for the gsr or ls/vtec anyways and those arent cheap. it would almost even out the cost of the type r then without the extra hp's

BlackRocket

why is it bad to put on a 6 puck clutch with an 8lb flywheel

00Red_SiR

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by SprayinR21 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">why is it bad to put on a 6 puck clutch with an 8lb flywheel</TD></TR></TABLE>

that's not really a problem using them together, so much as a 6 puck clutch would be a little aggressive, engagement wise for street use, meaning that it wouldn't be smooth. A 4 puck would be just as bad if not worse engagement wise. You can use them but just be prepared for the results. A street clutch that has a softer friction surface would give you smoothe engagement and a high performance pressure plate will give you the clamping force you need for all that power.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by fasterhatch &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> even an all-motor set-up with a built LS-vtec will smoke 13.98. very important though is going HONDATA</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes but keep in mind that 13.98 was on a near stock 2800lb car (with driver) so just imagine what it would have been in a lightweight hatch with similar mods. The point I was making was that a fully built all motor LS-VTEC will cost more to build (all else being equal) to be that fast. So if he wants a type r motor which does have a better crank in it and decent rods and pistons to begin with, he can spend MINIMAL money NOW to have a fast car while still being reliable (10.6:1 isn't that bad especially on a 75hp shot). I do believe that an LS-VTEC is a good alternative to consider though but if he wants to be different, the JDM B18c is a good choice.