Dekorum

Did not want to make another thread like this, but I am hoping that I can get some more complete information here. There has not been many thorough threads on this topic, other than this how to which is based on a DC: https://honda-tech.com/forums/acura-...dc-eg-2830117/

Does any one have any more pictures or information from a different perspective on an EG body?

Some of my major concerns:
1) do you truly need to get the boot off your OEM CMC and put it on the S2K one? I've never seen this before the above thread, and all OEM S2K CMC's come without a rubber boot
2) is there another size of cable end/nut that fits on the slave cylinder without having to shave a bit of the tranny housing/ block (like the above thread shows)
3) is there any more detailed picture of ideal routing for a soft line all the way from the CMC to the slave? There are not many pics around of the routing.

B18C5-EH2

My car is away getting some shock tower extensions installed, but I'll be happy to take pics of my S2K CMC in my car. I know that the one in my car was installed without the spacer, but the shaft was "modified" to make sure the travel was still perfect for the clutch fork, etc. I just had my trans rebuilt and that included a new clutch, and the clutch engagement is 100% perfect with the S2K CMC and how it's modded.

94 Civic Si

Looking forward to learning more here...

B18C5-EH2

BTW out of curiosity:

Why do you want the S2K unit?

Dekorum

Hi Tom,

We all know that your car is currently away The whole forum is likely following your thread, hehe.

To be honest, I would rather replace my bad CMC (starting to leak) with another brand new OEM EG one, but the soft tube that connects to the reservoir to the CMC itself is a discontinued part from Honda. I called all Honda dealers and the last one was sold from a dealership in Virginia last year. The tubes eventually get corroded or something and start to dirty/ruin your clean brake fluid.

Since, I want to keep it OEM and not create my own short tube to replace that line, I'd rather use the S2K one which also cleans up the bay a little bit and has a better design with the reservoir directly on the CMC body.

By the way-- if I go this route, I will likely also be modifying the rod (creating thread by using a tap/die on the pushrod) as seen here: Honda CIVIC EG6: S2000 Master Clutch Cylinder - threading
This way you do not need to use a spacer, and the CMC can sit properly and more tightly against the firewall. You likely had this done to your pushrod. I am just wondering if this rubber boot is also required to bring over from the EG CMC?

S2k@9K

iTrader: (3)

I just received a new OEM Clutch M/C kit for my 99'. I can measure the hose to see if it will fit? There's literally nothing special about it, i'm pretty sure it even said heater hose or similar on it. I was considering the S2k route, but, decide against it in the end. I didn't like the idea of replacing the hardlines with a solid stainless line and it looked a little more difficult to get to for fluid changes. It cost more in the end, but, I made the right choice for what I'm using the car for. I did however replace the rubber line with a stainless counterpart.

B18C5-EH2

LOL fair enough on my car being away!

...and yeah I get it with the factors you listed. Does clean up the bay for sure. My rod was definitely threaded to avoid the use of a spacer. I'll find out about the boot.

Dekorum

You must be talking about Honda part number 46971-S04-A01 which is for the EM1. If you have access to an EG CMC, it would be good to see if it fits. The hose surely looks different than the EG one, part number 46971-SR3-A00 which is a little bit longer and also is of a different looking material. The EM1 one looks like a standard heater hose, like you said, where the EG one looks like a braided or tweed hose. Not sure how to describe it. I also don't like to idea of replacing the hardlines with a stainless soft line. But in terms of doing fluid changes, the bleeder bolt on the slave cylinder should stay in the same place. How would it be more difficult to get to? The reservoir itself remains in the same general location also. Which rubber line did you end up replacing for a stainless line? The short one that we talked about above (reservoir to CMC body)?

S2k@9K

iTrader: (3)

I didn't know the hoses were a different material. The reservoir was going to be more difficult to access, because, wires from the harness, etc...run through there. (Not that it was going to be that much more of a hassle) The main reason I opted out is because I didn't want to sacrifice feel. I replaced the rubber line in between the two hard lines with the stainless line.

Dekorum

Ah, you were talking about the soft line that is pretty close to the slave cylinder itself in between the short hard line to the cylinder and the hard line along the passenger side to the firewall.

Maybe there is some one who is selling brand new OEM-like hoses for the EG for that reservoir to CMC connection?

Still looking to find out how to make the S2K CMC work, with a good plan for routing the entire line system and how to connect to the slave without chiseling off some some mm from the block.

S2k@9K

iTrader: (3)

B18C5-EH2

Dekorum:

What engine are you running?

What slave cylinder are you wanting to run?

Dekorum

JDM B18C 96spec. I'm running and continuing to run the stock JDM B18C slave cylinder (probably the same as any B18C1 or B18C5).

Dekorum

Any updates, Tom? Or anyone else who may have installed an S2K CMC in an EG (B-series ideally)?

GreatWave

iTrader: (5)

I don't have any pictures of my setup, but I installed an S2K cmc in my eg with a spacer and a Goodridge braided line. Since then I swapped everything into my Integra. Not sure if JHP still offers it as a kit, but that's what I bought.

Dekorum

Did you have to shave any of the metal off of the block or tranny housing, in order to fit the braided line into the slave? Was it a B series in your EG?

GreatWave

iTrader: (5)

No, I didn't have to shave any material of the block or trans. And yes, it was a b18b with a GSR tranny in my eg.

Dekorum

Thanks, man! Just looked on JHP and I think this is the way to go. I did not even think of checking JHP, so I appreciate the pointer. They do not sell it as a kit, but they sell the Goodridge line ($70) sized correctly for an EG with a B-series and the S2K CMC. They even sell the OEM S2K clutch master itself, for a bit less expensive than Majestic Honda.

The only thing that I will likely do differently than you, is not run a spacer. Instead, I plan on using a die to create more thread on the rod so that it can sit all the way against the firewall.

Dekorum

Tom, did you happen to look at your CMC push rod to see if the rubber boot is on there?

By the way-- on the third picture, the poster just says to remove the catch and nut. Does anyone know the proper way to remove them?
It looks like these are not supposed to be removed..

Honda CIVIC EG6: S2000 Master Clutch Cylinder - threading

Dekorum

So typically the nut should be loosened to adjust your pedal height, once the pedal pin is inside the catch/yoke and held still. You basically just need to hold the catch still in a vice or with a pair of pliers, to loosen and remove the adjusting nut when it is off the car. Time to go get it the rod threaded some more..

Crashmaster91

It sounds like you're going the route without the spacer, but I currently have an S2K CMC with a billet spacer in my EG. IIRC, it's a Blox spacer between the firewall and the CMC and love the setup. I also have the Downstar clutch line tuck kit that I previously had installed before the S2K CMC when I ruined the end of the hardline by the slave.

B18C5-EH2

Dekorum:

I'm sorry i've not taken pics under my dash, or really looked at the shaft for the CMC. I'll do that today when I get home from work. Side note if you happen to want to do the spacer route I have a spare brand new black one since I did not end up replacing my CMC when the tranny was built, and the clutch was swapped. Let me know if you want it.

Dekorum

Thanks, Tom! I think that I will take you up on that spacer. Indeed I am trying to go the route without the spacer, but if all fails once I remove my old CMC it will be good to have a backup plan so that I can get my car drive-able in the same day.

Any pictures of your setup under the dash would be great! Would like to see how the catch and nut actually looks (shaft threaded some more than stock I am assuming) and also if the rubber boot is on. To be honest, it looks like a bad design from the factory to not use the rubber boot. My S2K CMC came from Honda with visible pink grease in the ball joint that connects the rod to the CMC body. Wouldn't it make sense to cover that?

B18C5-EH2

Do these help?

Dekorum

Thanks! These tell me that the rubber boot is certainly not needed. It also appears that you aren't much of the thread. It is funny how people recommend to use a spacer, when there is so much unused thread on the rod. I did actually just use a die to make some more threads on mine, but I don't even know if I will use them!