wolf95

I've searched every rear disc conversion thread and couldn't find the answer...

I'm doing a rear disc from a 93 del Sol Si to a 94 del Sol S. The 93 of course has discs and the 94 has drum..

question.... I am switching over the MC, Brake booster, Prop valve, both knuckles, and LCA's.. but I can't get the dadgum brake lines out...

I have them completely separated but I don't wanna loosen the crossmember to fit them around.. any tips??

also, What's the difference between the 94 and 93 del Sol LCA's that are bent and my 95 del sol Si LCA that's straight...? just curious cuz I have an extra set of rear discs from an eg hatch that are straight too. would these work on the 93 del Sol??

thanks for any help.

wolf95

bump

94EG8

Why are you swapping brake lines? You have to drop the subframe, i've replaced lines before with used OEM honda ones, they just don't fit unless you drop the rack, unless you want to risk kinking your lines. You don't need to swap the lines though, if they're different its because the Si is ABS, simply get a non ABS master cylinder and proportioning valve.

wolf95

ya I was corrected by a friend. When I read the threads I thought "brake lines" meant the metal ones.... brain fart....

but another question.... do I HAVE to change the prop valve and MC from the drum breaks to the prop and MC from the disc breaks?? I've heard it answered differently...??

wolf95

also, I don't have a line wrench so I used vice grips to separate brake lines, but this cuts into the soft brass fittings... should I invest in a good line wrench? or is there anything else I could use? the regular 10mm wrench just doesn't cut it...

wolf95

conversion done. just changed over the hubs. seems ok with the drup Prop valve.. but haven't had it on the road yet.

but for future reference I'm still curious what's best to use for the brake line fittings. that brass is wicked soft..

94EG8

I have to check some part number for sure, if the Del Sol had large front brakes, swap the MC, if not don't. The opposite is true for the prop valve.

Flare nut/line wrench is the thing to have, but they often slip too if the fittings are old and rusty. They're actually not brass either, they definitely rust so they can't be brass, some sort of steel/iron

deschlong

iTrader: (8)

Yeah, and you have to be wicked careful not to destroy your lines when you remove the fittings if they are rust-welded to the lines. This seriously scares me for when I finally do my own retrofit ... because that's exactly what happened when I removed them from the junkyard vehicle....

wolf95

I mean I don't MIND using the Vice grips but that tears up the threads for later. luckily mine weren't rusted on, they were just tight... :/

wolf95

bump for the right technique??

94EG8

If a flare nut wrench doesn't work small curved jaw vice grips work well. Its going to mark the fittings up but theres not much you can do about it.

VPUPPY

The only other tool I'd use on brake lines or fuel lines is a crows foot wrench. I like these better than a line wrench, but that's just my preference. I can get better torque with a crows foot wrench because it uses a ratchet.

Str8EJ

If those brake lines are fubared, you're better off replacing them.
There would be nothing worse than having to take them off later, only to have them [literally] break on you.
Always use a flare nut wrench. The only time it won't work is if the fitting is previously damaged.

wolf95

thanks for the tips!