BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

This is a repost from my build thread. I thought it might be convenient for those trying to research the swap to post it as a new thread. It will better the chances of one finding it rather than 3 pages back in a general build thread. I'm sure this is elementary info for those seasoned Honda wrench turners but could save my fellow amateurs and Honda novices some frustration. Mine specifically was D16Y8 head and intake onto a D16Y7.

I thought I was absolutely ready to just Wham-Bam! throw that head on. Technically, I probably was 99% there but the remaining 1% turned my weekend project into a week long one. I did as much research as possible, maybe even more, but the stuff I missed was never referenced specifically in regard to a mini-me swap. The info was only found regarding the specific operations when doing a mini-me. So here’s my contribution to Mini-me research for those performing one in the future.

Be sure your IACV and VTEC solenoid are good. If you aren’t make sure you have spares to swap in at the first sign of malfunction. If you don’t have an issue with the ones on your swap just pass the spares on to someone else that might need them. They’ll never be a shortage of takers.

When removing/replacing the timing belt and/or water pump. Get the crank pulley tool, at least 18” in socket extension (I used a 20”, ½”drive), a big assed ½” drive breaker bar AND a least 36” of cheater bar. The torque spec on that bolt is 181 ft/lbs. The pulley tool can be rented from O’Reilly’s or Pep Boys, AutoZone has no clue what it is.

Be aware of what the FIAC on a 99-00 D16Y8 is, whether your engine and/or your intake needs/has it. Once I was aware of this issue I found many posts on how to address it. If I were aware ahead of time I would have plugged off the five holes associated with it with either gasket material or silicone plugs and just plugged or deleted the corresponding port on the outside. That’s only if I had to split the intake from the head. If I didn’t have to remove the manifold and the proper gasket was in place I would just block the external port with a plug or in my case the end of the vacuum hose and let it dangle behind the VTEC solenoid so it looks like it’s hooked up to something.

Make sure you have enough tubing coming from the coolant rail for the IACV and from the PCV valve to the front of the intake. This is the reason I had to split my intake off and caused me so much headache. While you’re there replace the PCV, it’s right there and easy to get to. After you get the head and intake on it’s a super pain in the ***. Have it on hand, no one replaces them because they are a pain to get to so most places don't have them in stock. I lucked out and found one at AutoZone after checking 3 other places. Replace your oil filter while you’re at it, it will be the only time you will be able to get at it this easily. I just took all the vacuum line I had and clamped it to the PCV then did the same with all the coolant line I had to the coolant rail. I then set it where I could get to it once the intake was in place and then cut it to length once I was sure they could reach where they needed to go.

Remove the Y7 intake support on the back of the engine. Then make sure you don’t pin the injector wire harness under the Y8 support bracket when you position the intake. Pull all the wires on that part of the harness as far as possible towards the battery as you can. You will also have to free up the wires going to some of the connectors from the split loom in that area so they can reach, just be aware and prepared to do some rerouting and rewrapping.

Those are my tips for someone preparing for a mini-me. I’ll add to it if something else crosses my mind.