B bOy CrAyOn

i have a EG hatchback with a jdm b16 swap with full bolt ons... i was thinkin about upgrading my Radiator to one of those Koyo or Fluidyne aluminum radiators...im running no ac... so i do have one side of the radiator support thats empty...

I was tryna find out what radiator is good...whats the difference in dual core and single core and all that stuff.. and what would just be overkill....

oh yea i plan on swapping the b16 out and replacing with a jdm H22 next summer so would i be able to use the same radiator or should i get somthing different for that

john666

if it aint broke why fix it.. could consider a teg rad. if u want a cheaper upgrade,,,,, koyo or fluidyne is a nice upgrade

killa99si

I have looked into either one of these radiators as well, most people go with the Koyo due to it being a cheaper upgrade, but everyone I have talked to raves about the Fluidyne. as for the didfference about the core you may want to ask your local performace shop.

YZFR6

I use Koyo and the quality is amazing and I've used Fluidyne in the pass as well. But I like the Koyo much better. Hope this helps.

sauceja

The dohc del sol's have a dual core radiator. I think from 94-97.
I am staying stock radiator and getting a 12" push/pull slim fan to give more cooling and thinner profile. I am also running the mugen fan switch and thermostat to start cooling process sooner.

My 0.02

Sleepy_Red_hatch

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by sauceja &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The dohc del sol's have a dual core radiator. I think from 94-97.
I am staying stock radiator and getting a 12" push/pull slim fan to give more cooling and thinner profile. I am also running the mugen fan switch and thermostat to start cooling process sooner.

My 0.02</TD></TR></TABLE>

i thaught the mugen switch kept the temp higher? im sure i had a logical explanation on why this would be better when i thaught of it, but it escapes me now

NINJA edit. nope, you're right, it keeps the temp lower (68*c rather then almost 80*c)

Bense

get an ebay one. it's just as good as a koyo.


And yes, I took courses in welding and specialed in TIG welding in aluminum. The welds on the el-cheapo ebay radiator are flawless.

sauceja

So why doesn't koyo lower prices or maybe we should just get a pattern and blue paint and paint koyo on el cheapo. Maybe spell it koyu and say its from japan.

lol

If cheap ones are just as good then hell, I'm down.

Still got one complete set of mugen thermostat and fan switch on ebay if interested. search mugen

Hatchy-Ownzjo0

An aluminum radiator is going to be way too much for your set up. If you are really worried about it, go get a new radiator from napa or advanced auto. It should be a duel core and more than enough radiator to cool your set up.

My buddy who had a 92 hatch with a fully built jdm b18c gsr engine with full bolt ons and what not had a fluidyne radiator and had problems with his engine not getting to the proper temp because it cooled too much. There is such a thing as too much cooling, which is why you see race cars with tape blocking the air flow to their radiators.

Bense

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An aluminum radiator is going to be way too much for your set up. If you are really worried about it, go get a new radiator from napa or advanced auto. It should be a duel core and more than enough radiator to cool your set up.

My buddy who had a 92 hatch with a fully built jdm b18c gsr engine with full bolt ons and what not had a fluidyne radiator and had problems with his engine not getting to the proper temp because it cooled too much. There is such a thing as too much cooling, which is why you see race cars with tape blocking the air flow to their radiators.</TD></TR></TABLE>

my ebay alum radiator was $140 shipped. And the main reason that I got it was because I couldn't find an all metal one. I hate the plastic tanks, those ****** necks ALWAYS break off after time. It's worth the extra $$$$

B bOy CrAyOn

Hey Hatchy-Ownzjo0 so would a Koyo or Fluidyne be too much for a H22 swap? did any of you over guys ever experience the problem of too much cooling also? and what sizes and thickenss radiators did you guys buy? so does anyone know whats the difference between a single core and a dual core radiator?

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An aluminum radiator is going to be way too much for your set up. If you are really worried about it, go get a new radiator from napa or advanced auto. It should be a duel core and more than enough radiator to cool your set up.

My buddy who had a 92 hatch with a fully built jdm b18c gsr engine with full bolt ons and what not had a fluidyne radiator and had problems with his engine not getting to the proper temp because it cooled too much. There is such a thing as too much cooling, which is why you see race cars with tape blocking the air flow to their radiators.</TD></TR></TABLE>

this misinformation is ridiculous. overcooling isnt a problem when the thermostat does its job. the more efficient the radiator is at cooling the coolant before it re-enters the engine, the more heat the coolant can exhange. therefore, it helps no matter what. theres no such thing as too big of a radiator. see the radiator holds the coolant and cools it until the coolant inside the motor reaches the point that opens the thermostat and its recirculated, cool coolant into the motor and hot coolant into the radiator. as long as the thermostat is used the coolant wont ever be "OVERCOOLED".

as for nascar using grille tape to mask the radiator, you are also confused at this. they dont use the tape in the way you think. they leave enough off to keep the car cool, not to keep it warm. the objective is to keep the front end aerodynamic, yet have enough airflow to the radiator. if they could they would tape it closed. most teams actually use more tape to qualify than they do during a race. no traffic to block airflow, and not enough laps to overheat.

i dont know if you really believe what you wrote, or you where just on a mental high and it sounded good when you though it up, but its wrong.


as for the OP, if space isnt an issue, go w/ whatever aftermarket aluminum radiator you want, if you trust the ebay ones go for it, if not grab a teg full size radiator.
if space is a problem, grab an ebay half sized aluminum, or a parts store 94-97 del sol vtec radiator (for an automatic).

Hatchy-Ownzjo0

Yes.. You're are right I'm a dumb ***. Go spend 500 dollars on a radiator that you dont need because you think you need it.

Your engine isnt going to overheat. A single core radiator probably cools it just fine, and a duel core radiator for 65 bucs will be all the more cooling you will ever need for your set up.

If you want your car to take 25 minutes to get to opperating temperature then go get a fluidyne radiator. However, since I obviously didnt have a friend who had a fluidyne radiator who complained because his car took so long to get to opperating temp after the radiator install, I guess I dont know what I'm talking about.

I'm also fully aware of how radiators work. But thank you for the explaination.

Bense

lee

EGwhat!!!

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Hatchy-Ownzjo0 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An aluminum radiator is going to be way too much for your set up. If you are really worried about it, go get a new radiator from napa or advanced auto. It should be a duel core and more than enough radiator to cool your set up.

My buddy who had a 92 hatch with a fully built jdm b18c gsr engine with full bolt ons and what not had a fluidyne radiator and had problems with his engine not getting to the proper temp because it cooled too much. There is such a thing as too much cooling, which is why you see race cars with tape blocking the air flow to their radiators.</TD></TR></TABLE>

i would have to agree. i had a koyo radiator before it was stolen it used to take my car about 10 minutes to get to operating temp. since then i have bump down to a eg6 radiator and it takes about 3 minutes to get to operating temp. mind you this is on an eg with a b18c1.

Archidictus

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by schardbody &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">this misinformation is ridiculous. overcooling isnt a problem when the thermostat does its job. the more efficient the radiator is at cooling the coolant before it re-enters the engine, the more heat the coolant can exhange. therefore, it helps no matter what. theres no such thing as too big of a radiator. see the radiator holds the coolant and cools it until the coolant inside the motor reaches the point that opens the thermostat and its recirculated, cool coolant into the motor and hot coolant into the radiator. as long as the thermostat is used the coolant wont ever be "OVERCOOLED".

i dont know if you really believe what you wrote, or you where just on a mental high and it sounded good when you though it up, but its wrong. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Actually, he's my younger brother and the vehicle he's talking about did indeed take forever to get up to operating temperature after the installation of the Fluidyne radiator. If the car was sitting for five minutes, the thermostat would work fine and everything would be lovely, but if - like most people - he started the car and began to drive, it would take forever for anything but cold air to come out of the vents.

And I'm going to agree that for the setup in question a Fluidyne or Koyo radiator is overkill. The Advance Auto/NAPA dual-cores are more than enough. Waste whatever money you want, but no complaining afterwards

Bense

with my D15 and civic sized (half of the rad support) ebay alum radiator, my engine warms up after 90 seconds while driving less than 3000rpms and keeps the engine cool.

However this is in hot south carolina weather.

question I don't feel like researching and I'm sure someone will be able to answer this in 15 seconds. But I THOUGHT (never checked) that the thermostat opens when temps rise and it closes when it cool. It SEEMS to me (again, never cared to check before) like the thermostat would stay closed until the engine reaches "normal" operating temperature? If the engine got too cool, the thermostat would close?

Naudlee

look for mishimoto on ebay,100ishbucks after auction usallly,shipped. A+

B bOy CrAyOn

ok thanks.. so basically for my b16 its not necessary whatsoever wich i would probably agree taking 10 minutes to get even warm obviously tells you its overkill... how about for my H22 swap tho?

schardbody

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Actually, he's my younger brother and the vehicle he's talking about did indeed take forever to get up to operating temperature after the installation of the Fluidyne radiator. If the car was sitting for five minutes, the thermostat would work fine and everything would be lovely, but if - like most people - he started the car and began to drive, it would take forever for anything but cold air to come out of the vents.

And I'm going to agree that for the setup in question a Fluidyne or Koyo radiator is overkill. The Advance Auto/NAPA dual-cores are more than enough. Waste whatever money you want, but no complaining afterwards </TD></TR></TABLE>

it might be TOO much, but it most definately wont cause a problem. its impossible for the radiator to affect warm up time. i know you arent usually wrong, BUT it doesnt make sense, there has to be another underlying problem. the thermostat closes the coolant off from the motor (so the radiator has no effect on warm up time), once it reaches operating temp and the thermostat opens and the cooler coolant finally reaches the thermostat it will snap shut, and then the process repeats itself. AGAIN, a slightly stuck open thermostat will cause the "suggested" problem of overcooling, because the coolant doesnt have time to get to operating temp before passing back through the radiator.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Bense &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">with my D15 and civic sized (half of the rad support) ebay alum radiator, my engine warms up after 90 seconds while driving less than 3000rpms and keeps the engine cool.

However this is in hot south carolina weather.

question I don't feel like researching and I'm sure someone will be able to answer this in 15 seconds. But I THOUGHT (never checked) that the thermostat opens when temps rise and it closes when it cool. It SEEMS to me (again, never cared to check before) like the thermostat would stay closed until the engine reaches "normal" operating temperature? If the engine got too cool, the thermostat would close?</TD></TR></TABLE>

andrew, you are correct in your theory, the coolant in the motor is in contact with the front of the thermostat, once it reaches operating temp and opens the thermostat fully and its recirculated w/ cooler coolant the cooler coolant from the radiator hits the thermostat and snaps it closed until it reaches operating temps again. its not a hard concept, i dont know why people have so much trouble understanding it.

B bOy CrAyOn

how about for my H22 swap tho?

THC07

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B bOy CrAyOn &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">how about for my H22 swap tho?</TD></TR></TABLE>

yes, but don't waste your money, just buy one of these. like 110 shipped or something

sauceja

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by THC1107 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

yes, but don't waste your money, just buy one of these. like 110 shipped or something

</TD></TR></TABLE>

Too bad they don't make the mounting holes on the other side for a "pusher" fan. That would be tight.

schardbody

fact is: the cooling system works as a system, each component serves its purpose, maintenance is key just like all other systems (fuel, exhaust, emissions, etc) when the limit is pushed by a hotter ambient temp, and a bigger motor, a fan and radiator upgrade are the 2 best ways to deal w/ it. but in NO way shape or form will a more efficient radiator cause an OVERCOOLING problem. the thermostat takes care of the cycling of the coolant, the radiator simply exhanges the heat. just make sure that the system as a WHOLE is operating correctly and more times than not you wont have a problem even w/ a single core half sized radiator and a HUGE H22.

there are many other things to keeping temps down under the hood, exhaust heatshields, wraps, keeping the front of the radiator clean of debri, and anytime underhood temps rise, it makes it harder for the cooling system to do its job.

one thing most people should take note of: the radiator cap is a "SERVICE" item, it should be replace regularly as well as coolant flushes. the cap keeps the pressure at a level high enough level to that the boiling point of the system is higher than atmospheric pressure. a weak spring in the radiator cap, or a leaking seal on the cap will cause an overheating issue just as quick as anything else.

schardbody

to the top incase someone wants to argue about it.