MadVladCivic

Couldn't find this in the FAQs.

While filling up at the gas station, car would not start. Immediately
appeared to be the battery. Got a jump from a friendly fellow
and the car started right up. Let it run for about 6min before
killing the engine and re-starting in the presence of the good
Samaritan. Car started right up. Drove it home (engine run time
was approx 25min), parked, killed the engine and attempted
re-start. Engine fired right up.

The battery is a Sears Diehard and its about 4yrs old w/ less
then 30K mi.

This has never happened before; furthermore, the "check battery" light
never illuminated (except during the 2-3-sec period right at ignition
as seems typical for most/all the dash warning indicator lamps).

I was going to test the battery w/ a multimeter as well as clean
the terminals. Can I test the alternator via disconnecting one
of the terminals and running the car w/ large applied load,
eg, a/c, radio, lights ect?

Thanks.

cbaber

If you don't have the special tools, take the battery to AutoZone or another auto parts store and they will load test the battery for free.

To test the alternator just use your multimeter and measure the voltage across the battery while the car is running. Should be about 14V. No need to disconnect anything.

BTW, what happened when you tried to start it and it wouldn't start? Any clicking? Did all the power die while trying to start?

doublezerohatch

check the water levels in your battery . . .

Ci-v-iC

to check the alternator w/multimeter , set it to Volts and have somebody rev up the engine...measure at bat terminals...should read ~14+

cbaber

No need to rev the engine. It's a one man job if you are smart enough.

EJ8mike

This.

Start with the most basic thing, ur battery wont hold a charge for long without proper water level. Use distilled to top off.

Telecatster

A 4 year old battery going bad wouldn't be too surprising. Even with only 30K miles on it over 4 years if you start it a lot (comparatively) throughout the day/week/month/year that 's what promotes wear as well as not keeping water levels in the battery full. Most (but not all) batteries today are maintenance free meaning you can't open them or add water. However, as suggested prior that's a good place to start and have it checked at an auto parts too as suggested.

Another way to check the alternator is after starting and while idling disconnect the positive side terminal from the battery and if it keeps running the alternator is good and if the engine dies your alternator is the issue.

MadVladCivic

Hi,

The starter tried to get it started but no dice. Starter sounded
normal. All dash indicator lamps came on when the key was
turned per the normal. No clicking. The funny thing is in
the start-up immediately preceding the gas station stop, there
was ZERO indication of a pending issue.

When I got the car parked after returning from the gas station,
killed the engine, then re-started. No problems. I was going
to clean the posts/connectors plus see about adding some DI H2O.
Connectors are tight. Could not budge them w/ fingers.

Alternator/charging system warning lamp NEVER illuminated
save for at start-up per the normal.

Thanks.

Telecatster

Allow me to grumblemarc you in the following:

Your quoted post tells us nothing. You had an issue and now you are hoping it will just go away and not return. How about instead of relying on the CEL follow the diagnostic procedures replied to you per your request to avoid a repeat of the issue in the future. At minimum take it to Autozone or other store and get your battery and alternator checked, it's free so why not? Secondly, clean the insides of your terminals and battery post and apply some vasoline to the post to prevent corrosion.

vitamin_c95

this...best response for best results. Do this and report back

92cb7sk8er

Not sure if this will help you or not but if you take your car to a part store such as advance auto they can test your battery alternator and starter for free. Also did it click like the battery was dead? I know sometimes my civic won't start after I get gas I just take the gas cap off for a min seems to work. Same thing for one of my accords.

MadVladCivic

Huh?

Cleaned the battery posts/connectors. Verified tightness. Tested
battery w/ multi-meter: reading before any work or start-up was
12.97V. Added water to battery at 4 of 6 ports. Took another
multi-meter reading: 12.97V. Started car. Tested w/ multi-meter.
Reading was 14.56V and dropped to 14.49V after 3 min run time.
Battery and alternator appear fine. Did all of this prior to your
above post.

Dash lamps illuminated upon turning of key in iggy switch to
position II. All warning lamps/indicators extinguished after
start-up. This operation appears normal.

Will check starter connections next.

The question is: Why out of the blue it would seem that the
battery would not hold a charge to start the car after having
been running for 10-15min prior? Esp after testing revealed
adequate charge on a sitting battery as well as a alternator
that appears to be doing what its supposed to do. Connections
were tight and not that corroded. The only thing appeared
to be water levels but cannot confirm that.

Telecatster

Oh... Okay so now you tell us. This information would have been much more helpful at the 08-17-2013 09:08 AM mark as to that point you did not mention that you did any of that when I replied at 08-17-2013 11:15 AM and now you're questioning Huh? to my prior post. I am not a mind reader and it really helps to report follow-ups to suggestions as you do them and the thread progresses. Now that I have stated that and my menstrual period has subsided and I am done ragging and now that you have re-filled water go to autozone (or other parts store) and have both battery/ alt tested and have them do a slow charge until fully charged.

burnoutboy

iTrader: (22)

I laughed my *** off at Allow me to grumblemarc you.


Dude's cool in my book but cold as ice with no remorse when it comes to tech questions

MadVladCivic

I was responding to cbaber at 5:54pm 8/16, last three questions.
That response was at 5:08am, 8/17 (or about 10:08am my time).
I was on my way to perform all tests mentioned subsequently.

I still question "huh?"

The car has started on all three attempts at three distinct times
thus far today.

Telecatster

That's good news maybe it was a one-off issue, or maybe it just needed water in the battery. Anyway, if it happens again you have a good base to build from for diagnosing.

MadVladCivic

Inspected the battery cable terminal at the starter solenoid.
PRISTINE! The mounting stud is reddish in color--copper or
copper alloy I suppose. The washers and nut look they were
attached last week! The loop on the cable was also in very
good condition. No issues here.

Started the car on 4 occasions today. The initial start was
the hardest but it fired up w/ a second turn of the key. I
don't lean on the key. If it does not catch after about 2 sec,
I roll it back then try again. Subsequent starts seemed less
"labored". Battery tested at 12.9V prior to start up. While
running, battery tested at 14.58V.

Thanks for your assistance.

MadVladCivic

Spoke too soon. Just happened again. Tested battery after car had
been driven several miles and then switched off. Reading was 12.7V. Yesterday, the reading after the car had been switched off was
13.7V.