seano

I have been juggling going turbo, supercharged or NA, and I am strongly leaning towards all motor. What is a realistic hp goal for a street driven NA motor? From doing searches around here and reading other posts I know I need to bump up compression, but my engine only has 30k miles on it, so it's still a baby for a Honda motor, so I am not ready to start pulling apart the block. I am thinking the usual I/H/E, then some cams and ITR valvetrain components.
Besides compression (which I do plan on doing later) what are some other NA mods, such has; intake manifold or TB etc. If you would also try to persuade going FI, I am still open to considering that route (It always sounds cool to be "boostin")

owen_the_soyboy

well if you are just starting the project then that is great, really... because now you can plan for one goal... NA monster. Sounds like you got the idea, but "I know I need to bump up compression" is not really true, there are MANY things you will need to do and that is just one piece of the puzzle, and it is one that can be left out if need be. Well, here is my suggestion for big NA B16 HP gains but of course its not cheap.

TodaSi had a good setup in his Civic Si, I think it was TODA Spec C cams and TODA valvetrain, that on a stock bottom end yielded great new HP results.
Of course you can rock Skunk2 stage 3 cams and Skunk2 valvetrain
or JUN stage 3 and JUN valvetrain.
All three of these manufacturers' wildest cams will bring great benefits on your motor with simple other mods... FPR, mild headwork, TB porting/swap, I/H/E, chipping or VAFC.

seano

Thanks for the input
Now from what I understand many of the stage 3 cams arn't very streetable, I know it's hard to compenstate for street/performance, but I need the car for a daily driver for several more years (2 yrs of college left). I do plan on this being a long term project though. I have read that the cams are what utilizes a higher compression ration, and that they won't make their full potential on stock compression.

CRX_VTEC

The cams will give more Hp if you get more flow. TB/IM port and polish, CAI and most important ECU tuning( Hondata) You can get good numbers with this and still keep a stock compression. But of corse all this will cost a couple thousands

dohcsideSi

the first question you have to ask yourself is how fast do you want to go....w/ a b16 your kinda limited all motor w/o touching the bottom end. you can get good numbers w/ a set of cams and bolt on's but the car isn't going to be that fast. the cheapest/easiest way to go fast is to do a turbo kit like revhard or if you have the money f-max.

whatcivic

You should start with the cams, valve springs and retainers. The ITR cams are relatively cheap and are way better than the stock b16 ones. A type r intake manifold is a great buy. You lose a little of the low end but in higher rpm's it's great. You can get the TB ported. I'm doing the full rebuild with CTR pistons and porting the head also. Should get around 170hp at the wheels. (Hopefully )

09civichatch[BRS]

get CTR cams, the intake one is more aggressive than the ITR ones.

seano

So your doing a full rebuild of a b16? Give me some details if you are.

naoosi

b16 na are really fun motors.thay dont have all the torque in the world, but they love to rev.....i have a2000 si that is na. (well it is being built as we speek.should be done and ready for break in on thu.)you should build your head for now.....do the jun3 valvetrain.with a mugen , or a spoon single layer head gasket.also get a free flowing exhaust.like some type of jdm 2.5 header and an n1 style exhaust.you can easily hit 180 whp.jun 3's will idle louder than stock, but not too rough at all.it is just cause they are so buff.they are fine for daily driven.i only hd 50,000 on my motor and i did my bottom end completly.let me know what you think.

BERT-O

From experience, I suggest doing the basic without tearing the motor all apart.
I used to run a B16 for almost 2 years and had great results runing low 14's in 1/4.
The key is to make sure all the parts are working. However, the set-up I used to have was never dyno, so hp figure is not avail.
What I suggest is running CTR cams and cam gears, don't bother with valves and spring since this will cost more money to take apart and put together.(and you said you don't wanna take it apart.)
-Add a ITR intake manifold with oversized T/B.
-A DC 4 into 1 header with a straight pipe.
-A cold-air inake system. Like the Iceman or AEM.
-Suggest a upgrade ECU, such as a Skunk2.
-A light-weight flywheel. Jun or Spoon works really well. If you think your engine revs, wait till this mod.
-If you happen to have more funds, I also suggest to add a JDM final drive since this will take full potential of the B16 revs. As well it will knock like 3 tenths of the 1/4 mile.

underrated99si

Cheap Bastard runs a good set up for a SI and I drove it and all I can say is wow. JUN 3 head package, ECU and ITR intake maniforld with bolt ons and put 178 to the wheels and revs to 9100 lots of fun. OH and stock bottom end and it is reliable he has 110K plus on the motor and the cams have been in the car for over 80K wiht no porbs

1 2 NV

u have read the wrong posts then. if u look at any good posts u will find out that a few cam companies make stage 3s that r very streetable. JUN for exampe (which i have) idle like stock and make huge power tuned properly. SKUNK2 stage 2s also have almost identical profiles to JUN3s. TODAs are great cams too but dont idle as well as the JUNs or SKUNK2s. if u plan on gettin serious id find a spare block B18c1 and build from there.

Halo

The term NA is so broad? Really your HP gain comes down to how large your bank account is? My friend Ryan is currently running:

85mm sleeved Block
JE 12:5:1 pistons
SpeedPro engine management
JG Pro-Series B16 head
Toda Spec C's
Pauter Rods
Knife edged Crank

layed down 227 whp, all I can say is that car PULLS hard! Either way the key to going faster with the B16 is increasing the displacement