Goullish

I hooked an Autometer Sport Comp A/F Gauge up tonight, and ran into some problems during the test drives. I used a direct line to the white wire off the O2 sensor on the cat. I used the red wire off my stereo for power, and the ground off my stereo as well.

Problems:

1.) For a reason I can't find, it will occasionally peg all the way rich (green) and stay there for several minutes.

2.) Other times, it will beat to the music. I suspect this has to do with being both powered and grounded by the radio.

Any Ideas, mainly about #1?

Dengar

When it pegs all the way green are you at idle? moving? WOT?

The autometer gauges sweep back and forth and don't give you a reading unless you are around WOT.

I would switch the power and ground wires as well to see if they helps improve the gauge's performance at all.

Goullish

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Dengar &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">When it pegs all the way green are you at idle? moving? WOT?

</TD></TR></TABLE>

All 3

OBD1Kenobe

The gauge will read full rich until the heating element/exhaust gasses get the O2 hot enough to function properly.

Stock ECU: Once the O2 gets up to temp, the gauge should sweep at part-throttle, be on the rich side at WOT and read full lean when coasting in gear (ECU turns injectors off).

Chipped ECU - open loop only: Same as with a stock ECU, but you won't have the sweep. Part-throttle runs off the open loop maps just like WOT.

The "beating to the music" is a result of where you have your power/ground. The gauge reads a very small range of voltage and is sensitive to the voltage being pulled by the stereo. My power comes directly from the battery and my ground is at the thermostat.

I am sure you already know, but just to clear my conscience: Please DO NOT tune with this!!!!! It is really inaccurate and imprecise. All it can really tell you is if you are on the rich side or the lean side. I got one because my compression is 10.4:1 and I don't have the knock sensor wired. I just wanted to be sure I wasn't anywhere close to lean at WOT... (it's not too uncommon to come across a batch of **** gas here )

Hope that helps a 'lil.

Goodluckers


EDIT: ...Just occured to me that you may (though not likely) have a malfunctioning O2 sensor ???





Modified by OBD1Kenobe at 9:00 PM 3/30/2004

Goullish

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBD1Kenobe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The gauge will read full rich until the heating element/exhaust gasses get the O2 hot enough to function properly.

Stock ECU: Once the O2 gets up to temp, the gauge should sweep at part-throttle, be on the rich side at WOT and read full lean when coasting in gear (ECU turns injectors off).

</TD></TR></TABLE>

It was fully warmed up when it started to malfunction. It actually worked perfectly for a while, then suddenly kicked full rich, then normal, back, beat to the music, normal, full rich, etc.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by OBD1Kenobe &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I am sure you already know, but just to clear my conscience: Please DO NOT tune with this!!!!! It is really inaccurate and imprecise. </TD></TR></TABLE>

I know , I don't have a knock sensor either (not one to be wired, just not one at all), and one of my O2 sensors wasn't actually wired until tonight, so I just wanted a little safer indication.

I'm not sure about the bad sensor thing, because it was reading normally for a long while at full warm, I didn't throw a code, and the car seems to be acting the same.

I'm going to rework the wiring tomorrow, move the power/ground (that really was a stupid idea, but it was so convienent) and see how it works then.

liam821

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goullish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">I hooked an Autometer Sport Comp A/F Gauge up tonight, and ran into some problems during the test drives. I used a direct line to the white wire off the O2 sensor on the cat. I used the red wire off my stereo for power, and the ground off my stereo as well.

Problems:

1.) For a reason I can't find, it will occasionally peg all the way rich (green) and stay there for several minutes.

2.) Other times, it will beat to the music. I suspect this has to do with being both powered and grounded by the radio.

Any Ideas, mainly about #1?</TD></TR></TABLE>

Mine did all of those things. Back and forth, back and forth. They only time they are *SOMEWHAT* accurate is at WOT...and even then its just a general *idea* of whats going on in the motor.

As for begging rich - mine did that sometimes too. When it was cold it didnt like reading the o2 right (its not warmed up yet). And other times it would just do that.

liam

WalkingKenshin

dood. dumbass. lol

you wire it to the ecu, as close to the ecu. Also did you solder the connection, i bet you did'nt. You have to make a good connection. Why would you run a guage of the stereo.. thats so half-assed. Run a power cable into the cabin, fuse it 12-14" from the terminal, (10amp) and do the same to the ground, but to the chasis. SOLDER IT ALL, don't make ghetto *** mcguvery connections. Also, use electrical tape, and do it right.

MikeNice

It could be the sensor, since you wired up your Air/Fuel guage to the secondary o2 and not the primary o2.

EE_Chris

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [label_kenshin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">you wire it to the ecu, as close to the ecu. Also did you solder the connection, i bet you did'nt. You have to make a good connection. Why would you run a guage of the stereo.. thats so half-assed. Run a power cable into the cabin, fuse it 12-14" from the terminal, (10amp) and do the same to the ground, but to the chasis. SOLDER IT ALL, don't make ghetto *** mcguvery connections. Also, use electrical tape, and do it right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Quoted for the correct idea - Bolded for emphasis

Ricey McRicerton

Here's another idea. Don't even bother. Take the guage back. It's little more than a light show if you don't have it hooked to a wideband 02 sensor.

OBD1Kenobe

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by MikeNice &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">It could be the sensor, since you wired up your Air/Fuel guage to the secondary o2 and not the primary o2. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Werd! I didn't even notice that it was reading the secondary.

You want to tap into the signal from your primary. Assuming your cat is functioning, the gasses before and after catalysis are very different. The cat frees O2 by reducing NO, and also uses up O2 by oxidizing CO and hydrocarbons. The cat also needs to be pretty hot to work well. It is only heated by exhaust gasses, so how hard you get on it affects the cat's temp which effects the mixture of gasses exiting the cat.

By the time your O2 sensor is warm enough to read properly, the cat is probably warm enough to throw the readings off (as compaired to the readings at the primary O2). Again, being heated only by exhaust gasses, changes in driving style could cause changes in the readings.

Deal with your power issues and use your primary O2 signal. That should fix your problems.

WalkingKenshin

dood, seconday o2 sensor, on your car(90hp dx) is for emmesions, primary is all you need

Goullish

Ok.

1.) It is wired to the primary O2 sensor, not the secondary. Unless I have the two COMPLETELY confused, which seems unlikely.

2.)<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [label &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kenshin]you wire it to the ecu, as close to the ecu. Also did you solder the connection, i bet you did'nt. You have to make a good connection. Why would you run a guage of the stereo.. thats so half-assed. Also, use electrical tape, and do it right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

dOoD!1, I actually used spice caps, they are easier to work with in small places, like my dash, and they retain full signal strength. I did the wiring right, placement is my problem.

3.)<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [label &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kenshin]dood, seconday o2 sensor, on your car(90hp dx) is for emmesions, primary is all you need </TD></TR></TABLE>

That's not the correct motor, unless your numbers are off. I'm not sure what motor came in the DX, but the y7 in my car is stock rated for 108, and yes, I know the secondary is useless.

Goullish

Ok, easy question, just to ease my mind.

Is the primary O2 the one on the header bung, or the one towards the rear of the Cat? d16y7


(And as a side note, please don't ***** my thread up with attempted flames, they aren't funny, and I actually am asking a Tech forum for Tech help *gasp*. Not naming anyone, but it seems to be taking a turn for the worse from certain people.)

Ricey McRicerton

The primary is up twoards the head. It will be before the catalytic converter. Should be poking out of your heat sheild from what I remember (damn, it's been almost 2 years since I had a stock exhaust mani!)

Goullish

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">The primary is up twoards the head. It will be before the catalytic converter. Should be poking out of your heat sheild from what I remember (damn, it's been almost 2 years since I had a stock exhaust mani!) </TD></TR></TABLE>

Ok Thanks . That's what I thought, and thats where I wired it, but all this talk of secondarys got my brain spinning.

976

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by [label &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">kenshin]dood. dumbass. lol

you wire it to the ecu, as close to the ecu. Also did you solder the connection, i bet you did'nt. You have to make a good connection. Why would you run a guage of the stereo.. thats so half-assed. Run a power cable into the cabin, fuse it 12-14" from the terminal, (10amp) and do the same to the ground, but to the chasis. SOLDER IT ALL, don't make ghetto *** mcguvery connections. Also, use electrical tape, and do it right. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Pretty much...

You wire the signal wire to D14 ECU pin out. This white wire is directly connected to the o2 sensor.

You need to wire the power source to a 10 amp (7-10) amp fuse, what amperage is your radio, it might be WAY too high.

Also, use a proper CHASSIS ground, such as one by the ECU under your glove box.

A much better gauge is EGT (exhaust gas temp). Much more accurate... An A/F gauge is only really somewhat accurate at WOT.

Goullish

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You wire the signal wire to D14 ECU pin out. This white wire is directly connected to the o2 sensor.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Can you elaborate. I looked for this wire during the install, but I couldn't figure out which one it is, and I don't have a electrical diagram, so I just decided to run direct from the white wire coming from the O2 sensor

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You need to wire the power source to a 10 amp (7-10) amp fuse, what amperage is your radio, it might be WAY too high.
</TD></TR></TABLE>

15 amps.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Also, use a proper CHASSIS ground, such as one by the ECU under your glove box.</TD></TR></TABLE>

I'm going to.

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">An A/F gauge is only really somewhat accurate at WOT. </TD></TR></TABLE>

All I needed.

976

Yup, find a 10 amp fuse. Or just use a 10 amp fuse...

The D14 wire is located here:



(This is the ECU pin-outs once you unplug your ECU.)

You will need to count, it should be the only white wire in the d5-20 area...

Let me know if this doesn't make sense...

Padawan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Ricey McRicerton &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here's another idea. Don't even bother. Take the guage back. It's little more than a light show if you don't have it hooked to a wideband 02 sensor. </TD></TR></TABLE>

Exactly. If you're set on installing something like this, make it an EGT gauge.

SpoolinEK9

when i turn on my turn signels my guage kinda blinks a little i have mine on a dirrect line to the o2 sensor also and it works fine.

Goullish

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 976 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">You will need to count, it should be the only white wire in the d5-20 area...

Let me know if this doesn't make sense...</TD></TR></TABLE>

It does, I was counting from the wrong direction when I had the ECU pulled.

Thanks for the diagram

976

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Goullish &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">

It does, I was counting from the wrong direction when I had the ECU pulled.

Thanks for the diagram </TD></TR></TABLE>

Not a problem...