BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Here I go again, not finding my specific issue.

Now that I have the mini-me done on my 99 DX hatch it's time to see about getting the A/C back online.

As far as I know everything is still there but the belt to the compressor has been cut. It was like that when we got it, very common for older vehicles around here. People rather not bother with the expense or hassle of properly maintaining the a/c on an aging car and just grimace and bare it during the 2-3 months that a/c is appreciated. Better mileage and power are the excuses most people here use to make them feel better about it as well.

I have no idea what the actual issue was that prompted the PO to cut the belt. Any advice on preliminary diagnosis and repair would be appreciated.

Is there anything I should be careful about? Should I try to get my existing compressor running by hooking up a belt, try to charge it and hope for the best? Maybe get a used unit to mess with or just locate a reconditioned unit right off the bat?

Would it just be better for me to take it to a shop and let them deal with it? I know A/C can be a pain more because of regulations, etc. than actually addressing the problem. If I do end up taking it to a shop should I supply the parts or leave it entirely up to them?

Schister66

If all of the lines are still connected, the pump should be in decent condition. Does it spin freely?? (remember there is a clutch on the pulley)
If so, toss a belt on it, recharge it and see if it still works. As long as the compressor isn't seized, it should be pretty straight-forward

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

I'm not sure if it spins, clutch or otherwise, it's such a pain to get to. I'll try to get at it later today and see. I can just reach in with a socket to make sure the compressor spins right?

Cheapshot1979

BeatDX I agree with Schister66, before you try recharging it though, you may want to take the car somewhere to have the A/C system completely purged then recharged.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

So, I'm guessing that busting my knuckles getting a wrench on the 14mm bolt/nut in the center of the clutch assembly and then busting my knuckles more when it slips off without budging isn't a good sign.

Former User

Sounds like the bearing in the rotor pulley is seized, which does not necessarily mean the compressor is bad. The pulley can be replaced.

With the key in ON (II) and the cabin blower turned on, does the condenser fan run and the compressor clutch engage (click) when you press the A/C button?

tony_2018

You must have some huge hands........I don't have that much room, infact any civic owner, doesn't have much room in there but I manage to take my time and get the job done.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Fan yes, clutch no.

I have seen there are replacement clutch and pulley assemblies available. Would I need a puller or just an impact wrench to get those off?

My hands are more palm than fingers. I can palm a basket ball but I can barely reach the top string on a guitar neck, killed my rock star fantasy.

I couldn't reach it at all from the top. I'd have to move the PS pump to even think about getting there. I had to crank the steering wheel full left and reach up from the bottom while I watched where my wrench was by peering over the top of the fender and wheel well.

Former User

Check whether battery voltage reaches the red wire at the compressor.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

Will do as soon as the kid gets back from school. Thanks for the guide.

tony_2018

I think its possible to move the p/s pump out of the way to get to where you need to be, it would make things a whole lot easier. I did a complete rebuild, new seals, cleaned the lines, new evap and condensor, new dryer and synthetic oil. Oh also new compressor. All in one day, started early morning and finished around 5pm.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

I plan on moving the PS pump once I get into the thick of it. The question is how thick that is going to be. I'm once again between jobs so I'm trying not to get in any deeper than necessary.

What did you do in regards to evacuating the old refrigerant, purging the lines and recharging?

Former User

It's apparently possible to replace the compressor clutch without disconnecting the refrigerant lines if you are able to work in a tight space.

tony_2018

OH man if its just the clutch, and I have the right tools, will not take me long at all. I think you can rent the a/c compressor clutch tool.

tony_2018

Lines were dead when I bought it, I spared myself by just rolling down windows and sweatin my ***** off until I did the a/c work.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

OK, Not getting anything at the connector (red silver) that hooks to the large red wire going to the compressor. Key in ON position, A/C button on with condenser fan running. I swapped the fan and clutch relays with no change, checked all the fuses in the under hood box and the A/C Heat fuse under the dash. All good.

I was hoping so but I was wondering what tony did about the evacuating and purge procedures in his fix.


So you didn't evacuate any residual refrigerant or purge the lines of air before you recharged?

Former User

If you remove the compressor clutch relay and jump terminal 1 to terminal 2 [key off] or terminal 1 to terminal 4 [key in ON(II)] in the relay socket, does the clutch now click (engage) and voltage now reach the red wire at the compressor?

The point I was trying to make is that if you don't disconnect the compressor refrigerant lines and the system is already properly charged, then you don't have to worry about recovery, evacuation, and recharging the A/C system.

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

I was thinking of that but wasn't sure which terminals were which and the car has disappeared again. Damn 17 yr old punk kids!

Former User

Socket terminals corresponding to these relay pin positions:

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

I get voltage to the plug if I jump, none if I have relay in place whether or not I swap the relays between the clutch and the fan. No clutch response but I do get sparking when I touch the jumper wire.

Former User

For both jump tests (1-2 and 1-4)?

There's more than one problem.

1) Measure the clutch clearance and Ohm test the coil. See post #9.

2) Reinstall both relays. Unplug ECU connector A. Turn the key to ON(II). Ground pin A17 in the unplugged connector. Do you now measure battery voltage at the red wire of the compressor?

BeatDX

iTrader: (1)

yes



I'll do the rest by this weekend.

Thanks so much for the help.