nismonotmugen

OK Honda is cool and everything i just hate ricers and stuck up honda owners, thats where my name came from. In fact my next car is going to be an EG. I'm trying to build something different for the caynons/circuit racing. I've been doing some research and I got a basic shopping list going. Here's how it goes:
EG CX model(lightest)
B16b(i know its a lot)
Tein RA(heh)
Now the main question is what intake and exhaust do I get? I'm trying to refrain from ricer fart cans, but thats all I seem to see. Also are honda swaps pretty much straight foward? I know the H22 isnt. Thanks and I'll let you guys know how my project is going.



[Modified by nismonotmugen, 10:54 AM 3/1/2003]

t0p_sh0tta

The B16b is a waste get the R. The i/h/e don't really matter too much, as they all make about the same power. Just stick with something brand name.

Dave421

The B18C5 or B18CR would probably be a better choice. Typically they're about the same price but you get more power, torque, and displacement to play with. The exhausts that give you the best power with be "fart cannons". The N1 for example, it's pretty much straight through so it's gonna be loud. Intake, consensus is pretty much AEM cai or Comptech icebox. Header depends on how much you want to spend. DC JDM 4-1 w/ 2.5" collector for less $ or SMSP or......(forget other company) will give you more power for more $$. Also, 5th gen hatch is lightest but if you really want the lightest, you need to look at EFs (CRX or 4th gen. hatch). Otherwise, good luck!

ace1875

IMO the only thing worth gettin from a B16b is the intake Cam and the tranny (4 NA)

B18C5-EH2

I'll agree with the B18C5 suggestion - I love the hell out of mine, and the 1.8L bottom end will produce more torque than the B16B 1.6L for sure.

B18C5-EH2

Everyone please remember not to talk **** just to talk ****.

This guy is looking for direction by posting some questions here, so of course the rest of us are going to speak our minds about which engine to get.

If this turns ugly like so many other engine vs. engine threads have before then I'm locking it down ASAP.

This is all part of your research nismonotmugen, so please take it all in from our own personal experiences.

sparq

Ricer fart cans are the only thing you can find? Maybe you arent looking in the right place...

Tanabe, Apexi, Thermal, Greddy... I could go on, all make nice systems.

Ricey McRicerton

Might even want to look for a custom exhaust setup (piping with an ES Oval or something)

Nine

The main question is never going to be which i/e to get.. there gains are almost negligable when compaired to the swap question. I'd have to agree with what everyone else has already said.. go with the c5. You'll be happy for the extra ft-lbs if you start circuit racing. If you dont want too much noise, get the Icebox. The airbox reduces engine noise. As for the exhaust, I'd recommend an A'PEXi WS Catback. Although it will put out maybe 2 or 3 less whp then its louder cousins, its probably more like what you are looking for.

Leisyman

Much prefer the B18C1. About a grand cheaper that C5 for only around 5-7 horsepower less than C5. Easy install with the right mounts, (Hasport rules). We run high 14's at 5000' altitude (Denver) with a 93 Si(heavier), stock P72 with intake and custom exhaust(2 1/5 inch with Flowmaster muffler and DC 4/2/1 header). Just my 2 cents, but the C1 is easy (read Cheaper) to get parts and overall a terrific motor/tranny combo for the 92-95 generation.

just another word FYI, my signature shows my daily driver. The install is NOT for the faint of heart.......works great but a real challenge to install.


[Modified by Leisyman, 11:13 AM 3/1/2003]


[Modified by Leisyman, 11:15 AM 3/1/2003]

Nine

Are you sure those numbers are correct? (5-7hp)

racecarpete

I'm gonna have to agree with the consensus here. The b16b motor is a destroked b18c. All you really get with the b16b is bragging rights. You will be much happier with the extra torque from the C5 or even the c1. Lastly like the guy above said intake and exhaust aren't really going to give you that much power, they are mods nonetheless but they shouldn't really be that much a concern to you. later

B18C5-EH2

What qualifies you to make such statements as:

?

Well? Answer me or I'll knock some % points off for posting up BULLSHIT.

I've owned a B18C1 with all bolt-ons and it dynoed 150whp and 122 torque. Most I've seen and the AVERAGE output of the B18C1 is like 150 + or - 5hp. I've had 4 other friends with similiar set-ups and each dynoed 148whp up to 154whp with mino bolt-ons.

My current B18C5 dynoed 175whp and 123 torque before tuning and a header/cat combo, and after tuning it made 176.5whp and 129.8 torque.

I will not tolerate bullshit around here - either prove your point as in you have OWNED both set-ups or don't bother posting.

The B18C5 on average makes 15-25 more whp than the B18C1. You cannot take the best dyno for a B18C1 and the absolute worst dyno for a B18C5 and compare them.

As for your lame assertion that the B18C1 is easier to install, do you not realize that the mounting points for the B18C5 are identical too? As far as wiring goes, the B18C5 is easier if you get a re-chipped P28 ECU. No need for secondary butterfly wires or knock sensor that way.

Also why would you need HASport mouns to do this swap? Please tell me, because every B swap I've done/witnessed in a 1992-1995 (5 at home myself, about 20 at the shop I work at) the stock Civic and Integra mounts were utilized.

I'm waiting for your reply...

Last thing real quick:

The B18C1 is indeed a great motor, but I cannot read stuff like it only makes 5-7 less whp without chiming in from my own PERSONAL EXPERIENCE having owned both set-ups in the same car.

I still have a B16A2 as well.

nismonotmugen

Well my main concern was the i/e because i was trying to avoid ricer parts, but everyone is telling me b18c5. How much does that motor cost? The reason I chose the b16b because I have a friend who can get me one for 3k.

acydphryck

i agree with you on the B16b motor...but the C5 is just too much $$$. just get a LS/VTEC setup...good for at least 180 whp with built head, cams, valvetrain, pistons...etc., that should be good....oh yeah...800 posts!!!

Ausmith

How about brakes, bushings, ball joints, tie rod ends, sway bars, and a roll cage?

Nine

Thanks for clearing that up.. I was a bit worried there for you c5 guys if you were spending $1500 more money for 5-7 more whp... and he's right, you dont need aftermarket mounts in an EG.

nismonotmugen

As for brakes is there a coversion to get rid of the drum brakes? I know there is one for the Sentra so there should be one for the EG.

OC 335i

Not to mention a complete B18c5 swap includes a totally different tranny w/LSD amongst other things.

Nine

You can either get '99-00 Si or '91+ intergra rear disk brake assemblies that should swap right in.


[Modified by Nine, 5:26 PM 3/1/2003]

scdarksol

CRX rear disk will swap in too!

Nine

Thats true. Isnt it only the Si trim though.. I think the HF's have drums but I might be mistaken.

kefka

iTrader: (1)

ctrs are nice motors, but if you can get the itr motor fir the same price then the answer is obvious...

Jawad.

$3000 is a great deal for a B16B. But if want to get the JDM B18C-R, it will cost about $1000 dollars more than what you get the B16b at.
This of course, is the 96spec jdm ITR motor.

http://www.passwordjdm.com/passJDM2.htm
$1000 may seem like a lot, but down the road, you wont have that 1.6L barrier.


[Modified by Jawad, 6:43 PM 3/1/2003]