swizz977

car 1992 d16z6 civic si

i was planning on getting an act hdss clutch kit but i wanted to ask if the oem clutch or the act clutch would give me faster shifts?

also is the oem throw out bearing better then the act one?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Neither clutch will give you "faster shifts". You buy a clutch based on the torque load it'll have to handle. Since you failed at following the rules and giving us basic, required information, even though you've been around long enough to know better...

swizz977

sorry i edited my post

now i wanted a stiffer pedal then stock so i was going to get the act hd pressure plate with eather there clutch or oem and there throw out bearing or oem

swizz977

i have the exedy oe replacement and hate how soft the pedal is even softer then oem

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Have you replaced the fluid for the master cylinder? Properly bled the system?

swizz977

yes i have it helped a little but stil softer then oem.. so i was trying to decide between oem or aftermarket

DumpdEJ6

Well if you want a stiffer pedal feel, then aftermarket, although you don't strictly NEED it for what it is used for: higher torque loads.

swizz977

i dont need it but even the oem pressure plate felt better so thats why i was asking if u should get oem honda clutch and pp or stage 1 exedy / act ect..

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Unless you're putting down a substantial amount of torque, an OEM spec Exedy clutch is all you need. FYI they are made by the same company.

swizz977

yes i know but there pressure plate feels like ****

tony_2018

You want a stiffer pedal? Get a stiffer pressure plate.

swizz977

thats what im sayin should i just buy the oem one from honda or go all out

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

At this point you've eliminated all tech related issues around your clutch "feel" and it is now purely a subjective issue related to you're own personal preference. If you want it go buy it.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You should never buy a clutch that is more than you actually need. Stronger clutches generally have shorter life spans, and are more abusive to the rest of your drivetrain and powertrain. Just stick with an OEM clutch.

Bently_Coop

Exedy street disc clutch and PP>ACT any day. ACT is way too stiff.

I have a competition clutch in my new project but can't share any opinion on it since it is not in use yet.

swizz977

i wouldnt get a stronger clutch then oem just a stronger pressure plate

DumpdEJ6

Jesus, buy what you want to buy. Why is this thread still here? Go get a stronger pressure plate then. Your question has been answered like 3 times already.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

I don't like the ACT pedal feel...but that's subjective.

Why would anyone want a stiff clutch for no reason? ACT's that I remember also usually start engaging closer to the bottom of the pedal travel, which I hate. You can dial some of it out via MC adjustment, though. I think I drove ONE car with an ACT that felt OK.

Fast shifts come from relatively light pedal feels and/or engagement at the top of the pedal travel. Road race clutches are tap-and-shift...you don't even need to push the pedal down all the way. I think my hyper single needed like 1.5 or 2" of foot movement to disengage.

If you do buy the ACT, you should probably buy a clutch bypass switch to start the car. And never ever hold the pedal down for longer than it takes to put it in gear and release.

jwest1150

The exedy OE replacement is soft as hell, I'm still getting used to it as a matter of fact, but being in California and the traffic associated with it, it is a God send.
That and I drive like an old man, so there is no biggie.

tamboo

for me exedy oe = replace every 15 years/250k miles.
this one might outlast me. if it does i hopefully wont have
to tango with the trans again. that was effed up.
head gasket was a walk in the park after that. 8)

swizz977

car 2000 civic dx
engine y7/y8
trans y8

i just got finished installing an act hdss clutch kit

i used a new oem throw out bearing
and i bought a brand new flywheel from honda came with a pilot bearing already installed

but somthing is deffinatly wrong

when at a stop and going into first it is a very harsh engagment
if i let off the clutch a little it jerks a lot

when i down shift into second it jerks around a lot

and when i downshift into 3rd i can hear some kind of noise and i can hear it when the car is at idle now like a little rattle

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

I warned you about this very thing in your last thread. It's harsh engagement because you've been driving on an old, slipping, OEM clutch, and you upgraded to a stiffer, harsher pressure plate and a clutch disc that has no padding behind the contact material. The jerking is because you aren't properly matching your revs, and you're just trying to jam it in and go.

swizz977

i dont think so its an organic sprung disk.. i also changed my clutch slave cylinder too

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

I'll vouch as I recall this thread. And I'll also add I have the same exact pressure plate to this day in my "weekend" car (this is well over a decade now) and it is how this pressure plate performs. Initially I had it installed with a full faced organic sprung disk (just like yours) that was included as a set and a stock disk as of roughly 2008 and it is something you will just have to get used to OR remove completely.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

That really doesn't matter. The difference between a true OEM clutch disc, and a "base", "stage 1", or "solid face street" disc, is the padding behind the contact material. On an OEM clutch disc, you have the metal disc itself, then some cushon'y material, then the brake pad-like contact material. The cushon'y material gives the clutch a little more bounce, so that when you're changing gears, it can "kind of" make contact without actually slipping. "Stage 1" discs, including the ACT SS disc, remove that padding.

What you're feeling is normal. You're going to have to re-learn how to drive a 5 speed. Don't feel bad - it happens to everyone when they get their first upgraded clutch.