Chris0619

I have a 99 civic ex as a DD. It has the d16y8 with a 5mt. I've been doing a lot of reading of different routes to go with my build. It currently has 165k on it. The previous owner had the trans rebuilt (new syncros, bearings, seals, etc) at 153k so it works flawlessly. The engine burns oil due to the valve seals. I've been looking at picking up a 2nd engine and do a rebuild/mild build. I don't want to convert to obd1 due to smog/emissions testing and don't want to have to run premium fuel(as 91/93 is not always readily available, I live up in the mountains). And not have to run a piggy back. Also no crazy cr's and large cams or even boosted.

I'm looking at a rebuild for long term reliability with some added performance.

What I am looking at with the rebuild:
New gaskets, bearings, seals
Shot peen the stock rods(for added durability )
PM6 pistons (bump cr up to around 10.5:1?)
Oem y8 hg
Bisi stage 1 cam
AEM cam gear

Currently have a Megan header, Magnaflow catback, stock airbox with resonator removed and k&n drop in filter. Going to add a random tech hfc also.

Not looking at getting any machine work done to the head.
A basic mechanical tune done to it.

How would that build work with the stock ECU?
What kind of performance would I expect?

I know it's not a huge build or anything, but it's greater than stock. I'm not looking for huge gains. Just a small boost in performance for better drivability.

B_Swapped93

and someone with a bone stock B20 would still be faster....


All motor d-series=huge waste of $/time even if you get the parts cheap sorry to bring the obvious up. Boost it or go B/K/H

Chris0619

I know a B is better. It is in the future plans, but can build the D for not much $$. Just want a mild build for now, due to a cpl minor issues with the current engine. Then going to attack the suspension, brakes and wheels. Then will handle the B swap after that. The body is in great shape for a 14 yr old car, no body rot at all. Then be able to sell off the D and recoup some of the money spent on it.

I'm not looking for racing or anything like that.

B_Swapped93

But if you save your money now it's just that much more towards your B-series ! a GSR can be had for 2.2-2.8K area i'm guessing you'd have to sink atleast 1K into repair parts and getting the few aftermarket parts and such. your call in the end obv but a B is a world of difference even to a mild built D16y8.

Marvin1985

iTrader: (5)

Ride the motor till it dies then swap it for a simple b. Work on suspension and research till you have enough for a swap. HMO would be the best 1 stop shop online.

jbpnoman

"this motor is better than that motor" aside, you plan on running raised compression without running premium gas? You want to run raised compression, cam, and a cam gear on a stock ECU?

No. Don't bother. Motors don't work that way, and you will be wasting your money without a tune.

TripleLude

Port the D16y8 head. The intake ports are terrible on the D16y8 head. You should increase the compression a bit, maybe mill the head and block down. A tune really wakes up a motor, but you don't want it that's your decision. However, your choice of fuel might affect the outcome. Buy octane booster if you have to run regular fuel. And make sure the knock sensor is working if you are OBD2.

doctorake

And he will get hat, 5-10 HP. Waste of time and money.

B_Swapped93

Lol at d16 all motor builds even if you GAVE me all the parts i'd sell them and get a B or K

Mr. Dabolina

Octane booster. No. Bad. Dont do it. It doesnt do anything but turn your spark plugs red and foul them out.

Unless you plan on upping the redline a lot, I'd stay away from porting the head aside from a simple clean up of the casting marks. Hogging too much material out lowers velocity in the port and kills your low end torque.

To the OP dont bother building an N/A motor unless you can get a steady supply of premium (91 or 93 octane) fuel. Higher compression and proper cam choice is where you make your power in N/A builds. Without it youre no better off than just putting on bolt ons.

blackeg

ive done just about every engine combo you can come up with over the last decade . the one thing that was a total waste of my time was a d16z6 all motor build. that motor went on the snail very shortly after it put down like 120whp on the dyno. total waste.


a stock sohc vtec on a small amount of boost like 6-10 psi is certainly nice to drive especially if you size the turbo properly to come on with the boost nice and smooth in the 3500-4000rpm rrange.

seriously though a nice b20z swap with a gsr tranny and some bolt ons will be fantastic to drive on the regular.


my best advice for you now: if u are certain its the valveseals, replace them now. the tools will cost you less than 100 bucks and im sure you will use them more than once over the years for yourself or your friends. in the mean time, save for that b swap or vitara setup to go boost on the d16

TripleLude

I've been running 93 octane + octane booster in one of my Hondas for several years now and never had a red spark plug. It's seen NGK plugs, and now has been running Bosch Plat+Ir plugs for over a year. Plugs are great and with the booster in, no pre-ignition.

Also, here is a D16y8 before and after correcting major 'casting flaws':
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/d16y8-head-port-work-3166032/

dueyx99

everyone hates on the n/a d-builds, if thats what you wanna do, then go ahead and do it, but instead of the pm6 pistons, step up to the p29's or the pg6's, also the comp #59300 camshaft is a great drop in, this type of build is very cheap, no added cost of having to pick up swap parts, since this is the engine you already have

azzazel_9

I like D's myself but only if boosted or on women. N/a D is truly throwing money down the drain.

Mr. Dabolina

Good to hear you havent had issues. I'm not sure what kind of booster youre using but the stuff that uses MMT or MCMT (Methylcyclopentadienyl manganese tricarbonyl, for all of you science nerds out there) to boost octane is the biggest offender for fouling plugs and turning them red.

I had to throw away a brand new set of NGK Coppers because of Lucas Octane Booster. Everything else I checked when I worked at Advance had MMT in it.

TripleLude

What seems to get my engines is ethanol gas. I try to stick with Shell premium 93 octane if I am filling up since it is the only fuel in my area without eth/alc.

In one of my carb'd Honda motors I used BP fuel with 10% ethanol and it dissolved a new fuel filter in less than a month. Later it dissolved a diaphragm on the carb set that sits under the float bowl.

Chris0619

So I decided to get my current d16y8 running good with a good tune up, replacing a few sensors that aren't functioning correctly, and replace the valve seals and get the valves adjusted. Then start to accumulate the parts for a b18b swap. Now a question, I have an unmolested complete engine harness for a 98 lx. Would it be easier adapting that for the b18 swap or adapt the current harness(99 ex)? I want as clean of a wiring job with very few if any adapters. So my thoughts was to use that harness because the b18 would be obd2a vs obd2b of the ex. Which from reading obd2a is easier to set up due to no immobilizer in the ecu.

EsotericImage

iTrader: (8)

use your current engine wiring and buy the proper harness adapters. makes things plug and play. make sure you use the correct ECU for your engine.

doctorake

Your car is an OBD2B car, only use other OBD2B wiring parts or otherwise you will have issues. You can easily modify your existing harness to run the B18B, there is a wiring thread in this section by hondapartshero I suggest you look at.