99TurboFerio

Read. i want to know if any of these things could cause overheating before replacing my thermostat. Thanks

Ive got a 99 with a D16y8 Turbo and every so often my car starts to over heat at idle its only happend a few times so im not sure if there are any factors in it or if its just my thermostat sticking open. My fan is turning on so its not that. I just got a a new turbo setup and the dump pipe off my wastegate does down and t he side of my driver side it runs pretty close to the intercooler charge pipe off the turbo and im wondering if its happening after i get on it and it being so hot from the exhaust it is heating up my air and or the radiator or my oil... the car only has the one fan/radiator no more A/C in the car to make room for the turbo...

Has anyone else had this problem at idle? its completly fine when im driving because its obviously getting cooled down... but at Idle it get really hot even tho the fan is on. I think that little fan just can do what it needs to do, plus the intercooler blocking the radiator never helps... But before the new turbo was put in I never once had this problem... If anyone has any ideas or info on Cooling upgrades as far as fans or radiators or if heated air could do this it would help me out a lot...

Archidictus

If you have the stock, single core radiator it might not be enough to adequately cool such a hot powerplant.

moto1320

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Archidictus &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">If you have the stock, single core radiator it might not be enough to adequately cool such a hot powerplant.</TD></TR></TABLE>

disco.

If your thermostat was sticking open you wouldn't overheat. It would take longer to warm up or in some cases you would run cold. Think about how much larger a GSR radiator is to support only about 45-50 WHp more than a D16y8 without the heat soak issues of a burning hot turbo under hood with it...and how much power does your turbo add? ...and the intercooler if mucking up the flow of air over the radiator which is unhappily perched right by your turbo already.
I imagine that a radiator upgrade and high flowing slim line fan will take care of your needs right away.

If that is not in the budget this is one of the rare occurences where I would rec. a low temp Spoon fan switch, radiator cap, and thermostat.

Threads

I have the same problem as you, but my car only overheats at idle when I blow coolant into my overflow tank. Here is the post I made on another forum:


During some part throttle tuning, I pull over to review the datalog. I notice my gauge showing the car was starting to over heat. I immediately thought it was one of my fan solder points that came lose. I popped the hood and discovered my overflow tank over the MAX line. I go back in the car and told my friend the bad news. The gauge is showing about 1/4 away from the danger zone. I tell my friend I got to try to get the car home before it overheats. I begin to drive the car and the car cools down back to normal within seconds. At this point I am relieved, but I still know that I have a problem that I must fix.

The thing is, this isn't the first time this has happened. My over flow tank filled up a bit, but it didn't make the car overheat. The excess coolant was not as much as today though. After I drained the overflow tank, I put in more coolant and it ran fine until now.

I am hoping that if I drain my overflow tank, and re-fill the tank as well as the radiator with more coolant I should be fine until i can order some ARP headstuds an a OEM headgasket.



After draining my overflow, refilling it and the radiator, I dont have the problem.
I noticed this event happens if i do a spirited run on the interstate when I incounter 4th gear boost at the higher rpms.

'

blown head gasket and/or lifting head!!

yup its a common d16 problem. i had the same problem on my turbo'd d16y8 4 weeks ago. i fixed it myself!

pulled the head, drop in new head gasket and ARP head studs. Problem solved!!!

what happens is that the stock head bolts are stretching..... therefore, expanding so much the head is lifting...thus pushing out coolant into the resevoir.

and yes,when you come to a stop, the car will overheat!! and when you get on it, it sorta goes back down.... i had the SAME exact symptoms...

moto1320

Interesting....how much boost were you pushing when this started happening. Or to be more accurate what HP?

Archidictus

Haha...I automatically assumed it was a B-series. I've been on this site for too long. Yeah, head lifting under boost is a huge problem for non-ARP equipped D-series engines. Wouldn't be surprised if you had mulched your head gasket at this point.

Threads

Most people say it isnt the headgasket, because the car cools down. I, personally, think it is a headgasket/headlift issue, and I am preparing by ordering my ARP Headstuds and OEM gasket soon.

I am running at 8-10psi, and I dyno'ed my car at 10-11psi and made 250whp. I am not sure if the number is correct or not because of the dyno I was on.

moto1320

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Threads &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Most people say it isnt the headgasket, because the car cools down. I, personally, think it is a headgasket/headlift issue, and I am preparing by ordering my ARP Headstuds and OEM gasket soon.

I am running at 8-10psi, and I dyno'ed my car at 10-11psi and made 250whp. I am not sure if the number is correct or not because of the dyno I was on.</TD></TR></TABLE>

Thanks for the info, even if youhad a 15% correction coming your way your still making some good power. A Supra project we did had to have oversized headstuds tapped in over this...but we're talking once up to about 30psi. Never seen it on a d16, most don't push much boost though. If it were a head lift off you wouldn't get that many shots at it before headgasket totally let go. I would also think that if you blew very much air into your cooling system it would boil over pretty bad until it was bled out, not just cool down as soon as you started driving again. What about your set-up, still stock cooling system?

Threads

Its the stock cooling system and I never flushed my radiator since I got the car(approx: 1 year ago).

99TurboFerio

Sorry For The Lengthy Post But-.....
Thanks for all the info. I was really hoping it wasnt the head gasket but i guess ill be replacing that and flushing my system. I'll probably try the flush today and pick up the head gasket if it doesnt fix the problem completely. I've only had this problem for the past week, well less than a week. But i did just get it put on the dyno and re tuned so i guess the problem could have been made more noticable now that the car is being ran at its "maximum". I'm only running 8psi because of my lame injectors- making 195 on the dyno, but it is a single cam. What do the larger head studs do? just hold the head better to reduce the lifting? ive never heard of larger sized on a sohc. I'm glad im not the only one this has happend to, I was so confused as of why it would do this now that it is "tuned" and running correctly- even tho it doesnt seem to be running better.
It's annoying worrying about my car whenever i stop tho, i need to get this taken care of. This was a big help guys- ill try a few of the suggestions and post back with the results. how much is a new OEM head gasket and the ARP or any other oversized studs going to run me I want to go pick them up if the flush doesnt solve anything.

Completely STOCK cooling system, the turbo sets right to the right of the fan about 1 inch away from it on the cold side. When it over heats real bad and i have to turn it off a few times i can hear it boiling under the hood from inside the car

Thanks guys-

ALSO:
I feel like im losing power in 2nd, I've only been driving it like this for about 4 days but my first gear feels awesome shifting to second it chirps but it doesnt feel like i have the same amount of power, it feels like its holding back. Could this just be due to the head issue as well? I've never gone through all the gears when getting on it but 1st= Good power all the way through 2nd=power but it feels weak and by 3rd= im all ready hauling *** and the power is harder to notice at that speed but it doesnt feel like im getting as much either. I've got my laptop hooked up and it follows my map perfectly so my A/F ratios are still correct. I just assumed it was a heat issue that was draining my power - even tho its not overheating its still killing me?

Sorry for the long post...again but the feedback was very helpful

moto1320

That was a margin of reference bro...and a 1200 WHP engine. **** stretches, even ARP once you get up there. No oversize headstuds for the Civic, ARP stock replacement will be more than enough. Sorry for the confusion. Good luck.

Before you go there any shop should be able to run the squeeze bulb on your radiator to determine if there are hydro carbons in your cooling system, i.e., blown headgasket. It is a fluid that changes from blue to yellow in the presence of hydro carbons in a little bubbler. Tell us what you find.

1995Ex_Sedan

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by moto1320 &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">That was a margin of reference bro...and a 1200 WHP engine. **** stretches, even ARP once you get up there. No oversize headstuds for the Civic, ARP stock replacement will be more than enough. Sorry for the confusion. Good luck.

Before you go there any shop should be able to run the squeeze bulb on your radiator to determine if there are hydro carbons in your cooling system, i.e., blown headgasket. It is a fluid that changes from blue to yellow in the presence of hydro carbons in a little bubbler. Tell us what you find. </TD></TR></TABLE>


Learn something new everyday, I saw one of our mechanices using that thing and I was like, what in the hell. Jeep overheated and threw a rod into the piston. The piston clamped down on the rod and basicaly anhilated the head. I wish I'd gotten a picture. =\