dsands7

So I just bought a 1999 civic si with a blown bottom end (apparently ) for 100 bucks. The car has a few flats and is also on a donut tire and is pretty rough body wise. This is around my 5th civic project that I have bought and I'm determined to actually get this one running. I am looking for advice on seeing if the bottom end is actually blown. The car has 330000km and is a d16y8 I would like to do most of the work myself through diy's and help through the forum.

Thanks Dylan

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Okay so you're in Canada. Big difference between a Canadian Si and an American Si. Most people who see the thread title will assume you have an EM1, when in reality you have an EJ8.

How are we supposed to know how bad it is blown? Post a video.

shotoutacc0rd

Light it on fire. Listen to the engine while having someone engage the starter, if it sounds smooth maybe its okay if it sounds crazy clunky its not okay.

Johnne625

thank you for clarifying that i was about to be confused as to why an SI would have a y8 and not the B16A2 is the Canadian Si the same as an american EX? just trying to gauge whether i could be helpful here or not

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Yes. American EX = Canadian Si. I also edited my first post a bit since you posted.

The Canadian naming scheme makes much more sense, to be honest. Our EM1 is called an SiR

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

I want to back up my above statement (not like it matters, but just in case someone calls me out on it)

In Canada: The 5th generation Civic Si has a D16Z6, which evolves into the 6th generation Si's D16Y8. Both are single-cam VTEC engines. Then if you get the SiR, you get the upgrade to the dual-cam B16A2.

In the US: The 5th generation Civic Si has a D16Z6, which evolves into the 6th generation Si's B16A2. Kind of stupid in my eyes...Honda of America dropped the ball on that.

dsands7

Yep its a Canadian si Ive tried to turn it over and the car just clicks mind you I was trying to jump the car with out a battery in the vehicle and just hooked it up to another running vehicle with jumper cables. Do I need a battery in the vehicle?

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

I haven't tried to run a car without a battery. In theory, it should work, assuming you leave the cables hooked up. But like I said, I haven't done it before so don't quote me on that.

dsands7

Ya any ideas of what I should check if its just clicking as if the battery is dead?

andoxviii

iTrader: (1)

Read the FAQ thread that is stickied at the top of the forum.

Johnne625

I mean i knew the difference in models just wasn't sure what the correlation was from Candian to American or vice-versa.
There's plenty of other posts to support this, but being that i haven't dealt with either models then i have no first hand experience with either in the first place. Correct me if i'm wrong, but isn't this the same naming scheme that is used for civics in europe as well? Having knowledge dropped on me is always welcome

if the sticky thread is too confusing (no bashing intended) i'm sure that before too long RonJ may stop by and his sig has plenty of way for trouble shooting carious issues

dewey_civic

iTrader: (1)

Have you tried just putting a motor in it?

OptimisticWay

It will work BUT the battery is there to absorb voltage spikes preventing damage to electrical components.

So put a battery in it, even if it is dead before you do more damage to it.

tony_2018

Running a car without a battery is not something I would suggest period. You can also dissect the engine to really find out whats wrong but if you want the car up and running than just swap another y8 in there. Not bad for a 100 bucks, good find.

shotoutacc0rd

You should show us more about the car, with pictures of it.

dsands7

Hey so I went a head and got a motor for it and swapped it in it turns out the old motor had a hole in the block. Now my problem is I ordered a motor from tiger japanese that is a d16y8 but while swapping it over I have realised it is slightly different than my motor. I had to switch over my distributor from my old motor because the one on the motor had a different plug on it. So now im sure the timing is off also

2 spare plugs
One located under IM 3 wire plug. on my old motor it runs into the block under the alternator. This is non existent on the new one.
And the other one is right around the distributor it is a round plug but there is no where to plug it in on my new motor.
And the car has an erratic idle anywhere from 100-1000 rpm when started.
Also it has delayed throttle response im guessing from the timing being off I tried driving it out of my garage and it would move a couple feet and fall flat on its face and stall

Can any one help me out? I will throw some pictures up of my swap tomorrow

tony_2018

Take a picture of the engine code.

duckman381

good idea

dsands7

dsands7

Once the car is warmed up it idles perfectly. Im going to check the timing in a few hours here and I will let you know if that changed anything.

visiblystealthy

iTrader: (1)

Since you ordered a motor from tiger, I'll go ahead and assume it is a JDM motor. The extra wire harness plug by the alternator is most likely for the crank fluctuation sensor, JDM motors do not have these. The extra plug by your distributor is for the vtec solenoid oil pressure sensor, again JDM motors do not have these. Hope this helps.

dsands7

Thanks I managed to figure this out from searching and trial and error with one of my buddys. We realized I had the sensor in the iacv and I think the tps backwards that fixed the idle we retimed the motor and switched over the whole vtec solenoid and it seems to be running good now.

dsands7

Picked up some bottle caps for it yesterday with winter tires