just.me.ek5

i have a 99 civic dx hatch (manal 5 speed) it all of a sudden stopped working. my first thought was the dizzy (hapened on my b16 also) so i replaced the dizzy with 4 different ones and still no spark. i check the power wire (black w/yellow stripe) on the plus for power and i got the 12.3 volts. so the dizzy is getting it's power but not delivering spark. i've swapped out the ignition pack and the coil but still nothing. even got a new cap and rotor from honda along with wires and spark plugs and still not getting spark. it's a d16y7 motor all stock please help cuz im stumped!

cliff notes:
-d16y7 all stock
-obd2b 99 civic dx
-no spark
-tried 4 different dizzy's
-new ignighter and coil
-new cap and rotor
-new plugs and wires
-power getting to dizzy
-replaced ecu

still no spark.

Former User

Does the fuel pump prime? Any CEL codes?

Did the timing belt snap?

Have you checked the Yel/Grn wire for a short or open?

just.me.ek5

it's getting fuel, and no i haven't check the belt yet or the yel/grn wire. it was running fine. went to the store and when i got back in it wouldn't start so i had it towed home. like the motor cranks but doesn't turn over.

HondaPartsHero

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

I really don't have the spark, what should I do?

Main relay. Confirm that the main relay is working. A bad main relay won't have spark on many Honda Acura models. Listen to the low whine of the fuel pump in the rear seats or the gas filler nozzle and take notice of the unusual activity of the Check Engine Light (CEL). The CEL light should come (followed by the whine) and then turn off. If the CEL light comes on and stays on with the key switched ON then this is the result of no power to the ECU or some other fault. This may be a sign of a bad main relay. Restore the main relay temporary by giving it CPR (Conk it, Poke it, Rattle it.)

Battery. Make sure that the battery cables are cleaned and tight. A battery with a dirty connection or a battery with a few dead cells will crank but won't start since the voltage can be too low. The same could happen with a bad ignition switch. Make sure to check the voltage at the ignition coil and ground. Then the battery terminal and ground. They should not be under 8 or 9V during cranking. At these voltages certain components will fail to operate. Although some ECU's can operate as low as 7.8V, most cannot. On older EFI models the symptoms are spark but not fuel. With a low voltage the fuel pump will also not run.

Ground. Make sure that the ground wire that you've used for the spark check is good.

Timing belt. Confirm that the timing belt is good by opening the oil cap to see if the rocker arms are moving. This should've been done earlier. If the rocker arms are not moving, you will need to deal with the timing belt first.

Ignition switch or fuses. Could it be the ignition switch or a blown fuse? Normally you should have no less than 9V while cranking at the coil's positive (+) terminal if your ignition switch, fuse or other connections are working properly. Normally, if you pass the troubleshooting flowchart above, chances are that the the fuses are good.

ECU. Confirm that the computer is working. Check for 5-Volt reference volts at various sensor such as at the throttle position sensor. If the "check engine" light comes on for 2 seconds and turns off then chances are that the computers is working OK. If it stays on then it's likely that part of the ECU has no power (most often a lack of proper grounding) or a critical device isn't speaking to the ECU. (A dead main main relay can allow the "check engine" light to stay on.)

ECU code 15: Code 15 is listed as an error in the "Ignition Output Signal." If you have this code it means that the ECU has found the Ignition module (igniter) signal is not received by the ECU which means that the igniter is dead, has a loose connection or has failed intermittently. The ECU looks for the 10V reference signal from the igniter. If the car won't start because of this code then check for a loose connection or go to section 4 on this page and be ready to replace the igniter.

Check for the ECU, CYL pickup coils, or TDC pickup coils functionality this way below (preferably with a test light, DMMs are not as accurate.) There should be a blinking light while cranking. Or bring your ear very close to the injectors, there should be clicks while cranking.