Mr2Rotor

Ok I've been having an oil leak lately and I figured out it was the cam oil plug. So I replaced that but when I tried to start my car it wouldnt turn

So this is what's happening, I turn the key and the starter cranks for a split second and then it just spins freely. I replaced the starter and still the same thing I'm getting sparks, and I hear the fuel pump as well so those are out. I then had autozone test the starter and it was working perfectly fine.

Last thing I remember doing after everything was spraying brake cleaner to clean the oil off could this have affected anything?

ehrkeith

Swap for known working starter, maybe a bad connection on the starter?

Check Power, Ground, and Signal. You may have knocked one of those loose when working on the car.

Zeusfire69

Pull the starter off and look at the flywheel (specifically the ring gear) You may have teeth missing/damaged or it may have come loose from the flywheel itself and is just spinning on the flywheel (thus the sparking...)

Mr2Rotor

I mean sparks in the plugs

Zeusfire69

Oh...sorry,I thought you ment from the starter (most people would say "I'm getting spark" not sparks)...still...check the flywheel....it sounds like the starter is ok...

Mr2Rotor

Took it to a shop and they told me my car wasn't making any compression at all WTF how does that happen by changing the cam oil seal plug?

Zeusfire69

You arent making any sense...if the starter wont turn the motor over...there is no way you can do a compression test..? You have to be able to make the motor turn over...

Mr2Rotor

Sorry the starter was actually turning it I just didn't notice due to the sound or feel. Any idea what could cause it to have no compression?

Zeusfire69

Gotta go back to the basics...is the cam timing on? Did the belt slip a tooth..are the cams turning? Did the tensioner come loose? Gotta start there...this would surely cause no compression. Did you take anything apart that might make the belt come loose?

Mr2Rotor

Nope only thing I changed was that little cam oil plug which just requires taking off the valve cover and the cam caps

beecee18

My first thought is something done during the repair must have caused this,

But changing a cam seal, and 0 comp on all holes

just look back and try to make sure what and how was done that day, really weird.

beecee18

keys in either the cams or most likely the crank pully missing the key and just spining, damaged keyway in the crank snub?????????
you just dont lose compression in 4 different holes like that unless cam/mechanical timing is well off, when you reset the belt make sure it was set to factory spec and not 180 off on the cams or crank.

Mr2Rotor

Hmm does this help? When the car was turned off I had to hit the cap that was on the oil seal with a hammer a couple of times to get it off?

beecee18

Completely irrelavent.

Do you have access to view the timing belt?, and if its on, do you know how to check for proper mechanical timing?

Mr2Rotor

The mechanic checked the timing he said it was fine which is why he is stumped as to how I could have done it :/

Valve problem maybe?

beecee18

It's hard to tell what your real problem is gonna be without physically seeing your rig, but I do know one thing, the valves will not develop a problem from just having the cam/camcap assy apart period.

If your problem arose right after the repair was attempted something was done wrong, or at some point of the reinstallation something is not kosher.
Unless it did run briefly long enough for you to go out and beat on it thus making the engine fail

beecee18

With out being there physically I have to stick with the cam/cams and or crank being off 180 degrees, or just mechanical timing being off,
To be honest at least 1-2 of the holes should still hold at least a little compression

Mr2Rotor

Well I found out I had bent valves it seems like my timing changed while I was working on it WTF? And when I cranked it the pistons slapped the valves :[

beecee18

rebuild, learn, and move on,
glad to hear you got it figured out, get a used set of oem valves and a good cylinder head guy.