mesrop1991

1998 Honda Civic LX - Automatic Transmission - 175,000 miles

I am the 2nd owner - purchased car with 100k miles. Last 75k miles mostly highway.

I have completed complete transmission fluid flush @ 140k miles (2 years ago) & just recently @ 170k miles with correct Honda brand ATF.

SO...


When im accelerating on in 4th gear (automatic transmission) (usually when the car has been running for only about 5 minutes or less) it seems as if my transmission kicks back sporadically (possibly instead of downshifting) it feels the same as an ABS feels when it kicks in!

Instead of feeling the pumping in my brake pedal when the ABS is kicking in, I feel a similar quick kick (usually ranging from 1 to 5 quick kicks) in my gas pedal when accelerating in 4th gear from a low RPM.

This happens usually once or twice during each car ride - usually in the beginning when the car is still warming up.

WHAT COULD IT BE!? Is the transmission slipping in gear? Is the engine not putting out enough torque because the engine is at low RPM and the trans maybe is shifting late?

P.S. I do have a P0420 code that I cant get rid of (Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold ). Ive noticed that every time ive reset the engine light - that it has come back on in a high gear at low RPM's (Similar to when the kicking starts) (not sure if its related).

Former User

Any other CEL codes thrown currently?

Lil Gnome

iTrader: (1)

Sometimes when the motor/trans is not allowed to warm to normal temperatures due to a faulty thermostat. When's the last time the thermostat been replaces?

apexi_rsx

does it feel kinda like wheelhop? i know i was low on ATF one time and the trans did this. I replaced the trans and forgot to pump the fluid thru the torque convertor in gear before checking it. i guess the torque converter sucked all the fluid up and the resevoir was low and caused it to slip and later on destroyed the trans. i filled it back up and rode it for another year before it went out...

mesrop1991

Im having a scanner shipped over to my home. When I get it I will read for codes.

However, other then the p0420 code that has been on for about a year, the check engine light was violently BLINKING one day on my regular route to work. It started early on the car ride as soon as I got on the highway, and hit 4th gear when, again, I would gently try to accelerate and Id get resistance from the car. This only happened once.

Ill read for codes when I get the scanner.

mesrop1991

Timing belt, coolant, and thermostat were changed 4 months ago. Engine does reach normal temperature in a reasonable amount of time.

mesrop1991

It most definitely feels like a wheel hop! It feels like the wheels are slipping when one hydroplanes for split seconds at a time!

I just changed my ATF fluid, and never had the problem before the change.

Maybe I did something wrong that didn't allow fluid to go to all necessary places? The dipstick reads full when the cars warmed up.

When I changed the fluid, i did the "3qts out the oil pan...drive around....and fill 3qts" about 4 times for a complete flush. also did it once or twice with the heat blasting. Did I miss a step?

D16SiHatch

It's possible the old fluid was thicker due to gunk and other suspended dirty particles in it that helped everything seal. Post fluid flush not only is the old thicker fluid gone but any gunk that may have been holding a seal together has been washed away. Faulty internal trans seals that have dried and shrunk slightly over time have a tendency to leak on start up. Once the trans has reached operating temp though they swell back up just enough that you won't have any appreciable driveability issue. Not saying this is for sure what you have going on but it is definitely a possibility.

goldsy

A blinking CEL while driving is usually a good indication of a misfire.

strategy400

I have heard of torque converter "shudder" before. My car does it sometimes and sometimes shifts weird. It's been doing it forever though. Oh well, gets me from A to B. And A is 86 miles from B normally so I won't complain as long as it keeps going.

mesrop1991

I came across this video on youtube:


I know its a different gen civic with a different tranny, but him and I have two VERY important things in common (assuming were talking about a torque converter problem) 1: the shudder comes about usually when it has rained/is raining! 2) the shudder is occasional at slow acceleration in gear.

Is this a common problem? Assuming this were the problem, is there a fix?

mesrop1991

Yes this is possible considering I just changed the fluid, and the trans has many miles on it, and the car has most its wear in 4th gear (AT).

Any additives as a possible solution? Does lucas trans oil work well on civics?

mesrop1991

I dont mean to get off topic, or start thinking in a million directions, but could it be that the issues are related? 1) Misfire and 2) transmission slip/shudder/lack of power/etc...

The p0450 (Catalyst system efficiency below threshold) has been on for a year. Possible causes to this light include: 1) Bad plugs, 2) ig wireset, 3) ig rotor&cap 4) bad timing 5) leak in exhaust, 6) bad 02 sensors 7) Bad cat 8) bad fuel injectors leaking and causing cat to go bad (also would cause misfires)

HOWEVER: I have, within the past 2 years, put in NEW: 1) plugs, 2) wireset, 3) ig rotor&cap, 4) timing belt & tensioner, 5) whole new exhaust, 6) 02 sensors, 7) new cat converter! ALL NEW!

I have not touched the fuel system however.

COULD IT BE...that over time the injectors (or similar component) went bad -> caused the newer catalytic converter to go bad due to excessive fuel not burning (causing p0420 code) -> and now leading to misfires causing the transmission/engine to kick back at me when accelerating!?


PLEASE correct me if im sounding silly!

apexi_rsx

ive added the lucus trans slip fix and its worked for me.... usually once the trans start going it gets worse form there.... so add sum lucus and start sourcing another auto trans or 5 speed swap... you can try cleaning the injectors out and replacing your fuel filter... i clean my injectors out with carb cleaner and an old injector clip connected to a 12v battery charger and blow it thru using an air compressor set at 40-50psi. spray alil carb cleaner in them then hook the + and - up to the pig tails off the injector clip and use an air gun to blow the carb cleaner thru... i usally repeat it a few times....

strategy400

Properly flushing a properly maintained transmission should not result in any problems. If the transmission has not been properly maintained then it could be time for a cleaning/rebuild. Shops will not want to flush a high mileage transmission because it could dislodge build up that might then clog a passage/filter/valve and cause a problem that will come back on them and this gives flushing a bad reputation.

mesrop1991

Like I said, Ive done 2 trans flushes during my ownership. 1@ about 135k and 175k. I dont have any records of the cars first 100k miles. I assume it was not maintained. But the 1st and actually second trans flushes have not effected the feel of the transmission except for this occasional kick back I get now...

Lil Gnome

iTrader: (1)

Well I know that CEL basically means you either have a bad O2 sensor or bad Cat. I not too sure if that would cause the shutter in the throttle/trans...?
Do you Cruise Control? (not sure if the LX came with it)

mesrop1991

OK! I got a code reader. Here are the CODES!

P0420 - Catalyst system efficency bellow threshold (about a year old code)

P0301 - misfire cylinder 1
P0303 - Misfire Cly. 3
P0300 - Random misfire

P1399 -


So Im dealing with a MISFIRE issue. This has nothing to do with the tranny.

IMPORTANT:
I found a TON of OIL in the Spark Plug Boot hole (so getting in between the top of the spark plug and boot connection)

I cleaned that up as best I could until I can change the valve cover gasket.


I DID TWO TESTS:

1) Night test. Misted the wireset and dizzy with water....There were sparks small blue sparks all over the spark plug wires and the rotor cap (there also seemed to be some dried up oil under the dizzy cap.

2) I put a screwdriver tip to each injector and the other end to my ear. Each injector sounded fine.

SO! WHAT DO I DO ABOUT THE WIRESET AND DIZZY SPARKING UP?!

AGAIN, the MISFIRE MOSTLY OCCURS on RAINY AND MOIST DAYS!

Does this mean that if I change my rotor cap and wirset, my problem should be solved?!

Do I need to buy oem plug wires? How about dizzy cap?

Former User

Yes, buy new plug wires, cap, and rotor. Have you already installed new NGK plugs?

mesrop1991

The cap and rotor are only a year old Bosch branded....think I can start off with just an oem wireset? Or should I get the dizzy OEM as well?

Plugs are new nkg's, yes.

Former User

Yeah, start with installing new OEM plug wires. That should do it.

mesrop1991

I GOT IT!

So I took my Rotor/dizzy off and was that it was burnt! I sanded the burnt part down as well as all the contact points. This made the problem worse! And thats how I KNEW it was the cap and rotor!

So this time I ordered OEM HONDA Cap, Rotor, and Wireset. Installed em all, and BAM! Were back to smooth sailing! No hesitation, no kickback in ANY gear (my transmission is alright ).

And so far my p0420 code hasn't come back. Maybe thats because I put new O2 sensors in. If that code comes back, I will go with the old defouler trick. Because from what I understand, the bosal replacement exhaust system may not have the o2 sensors positioned as honda may have them causing that code to come up.


You guys were a BIG help! Thank you ALL!