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98 civic lx driver door harness question

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Old 08-15-2016, 12:56 PM
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Default 98 civic lx driver door harness question

hi, I have to redo my driver side door harness because the wires pulled out, i have a replacement set of wire ready to resolder and i was wondering what type of pins those are in the connector as seen in the pictures, and where can i buy a replacement set and also if the set will come with a tool the remove the old pins/if i need to buy a tool to knock those and pins to put the new pins in when I'm ready to rewire the connector?



Old 08-15-2016, 01:48 PM
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Default Re: 98 civic lx driver door harness question

You will Have to check if honda sells the complete male and female pigtail.

That connector is too large to be in the door to be honest, and it's just going to happen again in a few years. Universal male and female spade connectors with waterproof covering are the easiest and cheapest solution
Old 08-15-2016, 02:16 PM
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Default Re: 98 civic lx driver door harness question

^ I don't really agree, I've never had an issue with door harness connectors in 20 years of messing with these cars.

Everything you need to know about pinning Honda connectors (of these vintages, at least):

https://honda-tech.com/forums/attach...eplacement.pdf

If you don't care to buy the pin tools, a safety pin works reasonably well, as does a bobby pin swiped from your lady friend. In the case of the latter, clip the bulb off the end of the pin and sharpen it (make it flatter). This or the point on the safety pin will make it much easier to pick the locking tab inside the connector as shown in the attached TSB.
Old 08-15-2016, 02:48 PM
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Default Re: 98 civic lx driver door harness question

All of my 96-98 cars with the large connector and over 200k miles have missing connectors. I didn't do the repairs, the cars already look like this when I get them

Old 08-15-2016, 03:43 PM
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Default Re: 98 civic lx driver door harness question

The OP's connector obviously met with extreme violence. You may still be able to buy the whole harness from a dealer.

The problem isn't the connectors it's that the wires break where they go across the hinge causing the windows, etc. to stop working. This happens to just about all cars when they get old enough to have the driver's door opened and closed many thousands of times. So someone may rig a repair involving splicing the wires and leaving the connector out.
Old 08-16-2016, 07:01 AM
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Default Re: 98 civic lx driver door harness question

Originally Posted by chrysler kid
it's just going to happen again in 18 years.
FTFY
Old 08-16-2016, 11:24 AM
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Default Re: 98 civic lx driver door harness question

You can buy a complete door harness for around $30 or less at PicknPull.
Broken leads, as mentioned, are a common problem in the drivers door harness boot on just about any car.
A big mistake is to make the repair at the break, [even soldering and shrink tubing] it will only break there again, on either side of repair.
At the very least you would get the plug and enough lead to reach into the door and make the connections there as opposed to in the boot.I have also just replaced one lead, de-pined at both ends and installed new lead and repined into bot plugs, but as is as much work as just replacing the complete door harness if not a little more, and I only did that because I had a damaged door harness for the car with that lead undamaged.

And just FYI just because a led does not look broken does not mean it is not, what commonly happens is the wire strands in the lead break but the insulation does not so the lead looks OK, the way to test them is to pull on the lead and if it "stretches" the wire strands are broken, so if you get a harness pull each lead to inspect it. 94
Old 08-17-2016, 08:08 AM
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Default Re: 98 civic lx driver door harness question

That's your story, and you're sticking with it.
Old 08-17-2016, 08:54 AM
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Default Re: 98 civic lx driver door harness question

Originally Posted by RonJ
That's your story, and you're sticking with it.
Didn't see you quoted me before I deleted it.

I had to re do that tangled mess to get those locks working. Factory is best, but I've seen other posts about them cracking in the door jambs too.

They should have just made the connector be either inside the cabin or inside the door and not in the middle
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