Chemistry

I just got my b16a into my ek & Ill admit I was unprepared but not much is left other then sort out the confusion from.
My questions/problems are..
My bolts got mixed up & I need to order the top 2 bolts for the rear t bracket, I have them laying around somewhere but I cant identify them. My friend says if its close, threads & fits...F it but I just cant bring myself to do that. I found that we did put the wrong mount bolt in the pass side mount but it fits, threads but I think it goes to a different mount. My plan is to just order new bolts for everything to make sure & because a few have began to rust & its spreading to other parts but its becoming very costly. Does what my friend said have any merit, have you or would you do it? Personally the only reason im considering it is because of time it will take to get the parts here.
2nd I want to save cash but I need a new radaitor. The old one wasnt working 100% nor were the fans & I figured it would be best at this point to upgrade. I dont mind spending the cash but Im sure there are cheaper options then skunk2 alpha...I was thinking on blackworks. I want to be sure I get a qaulity or a part that wont quickly fail or break or has a warranty if it does. I see alot of people buying ebay fans & rads but never hear any results, short of the rare guy at a show thats not afraid to say the E word. Again...would you, have you or your opinion on ebay/cheap parts? Same goes for the hoses.
3rd. My VSS(speed sensor) on my gsr trans has the plastic top broken off. Can I just get the top part or do I need the entire new part? I found a place that sells clips & connectors but im told just replace it.

I know asking ways to keep cost down in a swap is kind of a laughable question but I know its been done. Also I have no junk or pick yards so all parts I have to find are by ordering online, autzone(keeps giving me wrong or jacked parts) or mircle of Craigslist...none of which turns out cheap & if so It never works correctly. Thanks in advance for the advice!

Former User

You should be more specific than EK.

Chemistry

sorry, 98 civic dx hatchback original 5 speed

Former User

You never know when this information may come into play during discussions.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You should try using paragraphs to make long posts easier to read.

Radiator: buy a stock replacement for a 99-00 Si via rockauto.com. it needs to be a B series radiator with the larger inlet/outlets. 1.25" comes to mind...but I could be wrong. Look for Denso and Koyo as far as brands go. Don't buy a copper radiator.

If you absolutely want a high performance radiator, the no-name ones still work well as long as they are a fully welded aluminum design. Tue quality is lower....so just realize that as you go in. The welds may burst sooner, the cap will likely be cheesy and maybe prone to spring failure, and the fit/finish won't be as nice.

Or Mishimoto if you want a good product for a lower price.

Hoses: gates brand from rockauto. Or another good name brand. Or Honda.

VSS: Buy one used on ebay or zip tie your connector on.

Chemistry

Ill try my best to upload everything. For some reason I can never get pictures to post correctly. I tried calling rock auto & they sent me to my Honda dealership who literally said, go to acura(because I have a GSR trans & he didn't want to do his job) then a good mechanic said Maj.honda which is my online source. Im positive I put the wrong bolt in the passenger mount but its holding. I have the right one but that takes away from the 2 I have left which after looking at a bunch of pics...well I need 3 of these things. I didn't think there was a difference in D-B series engine bolts. The other 2 seem like they would fit & thread but Im not knowledgable enough to feel safe unless I know its the right part. Long & short, Im saying F it & buy extra bolts, cant hurt to have them around.

In terms of radiators...Im still stuck on what to do about a fan, I think Im going to go blackworks to save a few bucks & be different from the tons of skunk2 guys. I thought about trying a cheap ebay one but Ive have almost no confiedence in them & due to the nature of the build on the engine + my driving, that's not a part I should skimp on. No worries about copper rads, I did read up on them before cost made my choice & I wont go near a copper one after seeing pics in one thread. I want Misho but I cant find them cheap at all. I find skunks at 170 then minimum for misho is around 220. The hoses Im going with OEM since they are the cheapest & you cant beat OEM. Can I use a cheap ebay or slim fan with a skunk2 or other rads & it work just fine?? My original fan only kicked on twice to my knowledge & my d series ran fine for 3 years.

As for the vss, I may be in luck. I was told I can take the D series connector but I doubt that. Then I found an LS trans & the guy said I could take it from that but its looking like Ill have to other another. If I had the plastic top I would try the zip tie.

Ill get pics up asap & from hence forth but forgive me if they don't load. Up until recently Ive only used forums to read & occasionally post an answer if I knew it. Last time I tried no one answered my thread as I had around 10 boxes with red x's.

kyden

why not just use an oem fan? they work worlds better than a garbage slim fan with no shroud.

i wouldn't worry about an ebay aluminum radiator. i haven't seen one fail yet. Mishimoto used to be affordable but those days are long gone.

Chemistry

I thought about it & right now its my only option, reason I wanted to replace is was they weren't working proper to begin with. They would only turn on if I had the heater on so I figured it would be best to just replace it but to save some cash & hassle Ill only replace it if it totally fails.

Im still debating on the radiator as that's a big price difference between skunk or blackworks & ebay. I want to get a dual core rad no matter which brand. Reason I question it is a thread I found while researching what radiator would best suit me & a guy went cheap & it junked his motor, the fluid was dripping from places I didn't think it would reach..all that after a fresh gsr build with less then 1k on it. I think he said the cap & a lower weld busted.

If it worked there should be pictures of the bolts & a pic of washers. When looking at the rear T bracket its the top 2 bolts, the one that goes through the mount & the top one that connects to the engine. I looked at the Majestic Honda diagram & it says there are washers to both & the part numbers a different for 1 washer, how do I tell which washer is the correct one?? I really don't want to spend 3$ per washer just to have a small piece of mind & Maj Honda couldn't tell me which bolt or washer goes where.

kyden

if the fan comes on, it works. your issue is something different. bad fan switch, wiring, coolant level, etc.

Chemistry

That's what I figured as well so I order a new thermo & fan switch(mugen lower temp parts). Car was completely stock while that was happening so Im not sure on wiring. Im working all on the wiring now so Ill run into any issues soon. Im also going to plug up the old fan with the new parts before I think on ordering a new one.
I may have to go cheap & ebay a rad because yesterday I when over everything & torqued to spec & Im about to order 50$ worth of bolts just for peace of mind.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

This makes no sense.

kyden

do not use a lower temp thermostat.

Chemistry

Ill most likely get a cheap ebay radiator due to after torqueing all bolts & going over my wiring & checking for missing parts, I still cant figure my first problem(at the top of the page) dealing with the bolts so Im going to order new ones to avoid further problems & confusion which will end up pressing my budget & taking away options for better parts.

Any reason why I shouldn't use the thermo? Its going on a track/autox car so I figured it would help in the long run, plus they were picked up very cheap from a friend who was parted out his car & had a few parts laying around.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I still don't know how you can be on a site like Majestic Honda and not be able to figure out what bolt goes where.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

This car doesn't need a low temp themostat and a bigass radiator for track or autocross use. It's going to never ever reach operating temp ever.

tony_2018

Its never going anywhere....

Chemistry

The reason I had trouble with Maj Honda is because I called them to see if I was correct in my understanding & they just tried to sell me & only confused me further by emailing me the wrong diagram.
The radiator was a choice due to the condition my stock one was in before the swap. It was starting to overheat in traffic & on long drives & since Im putting in a built motor & plan on driving like I stole it on the weekends, I figured it might be a smart option. The low temp parts were only picked up because they were basically free but I haven't put them in yet.
Tony, Im not sure of your comment.

As of now, I have it all fixed, everything is connected & I have to wait till 2 to get the last couple parts/fluids before I can drive it to the shop for a sticker & get it back on the road

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Next time don't call. Go the website and check the parts catalog.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The motor is built?

Helpful tips:
-just because you call a honda dealer and talk to the parts guy doesn't mean he's done a swap before. He just works at honda. He may have some expertise...but nobody (except me, duh) knows everything about everything.

-the way you were asking/wording the question about the bolts was really confusing. This is meant to be helpful...but grammar and breakup of info goes a long way. You were talking in circles a bit there. You had D series bolts? Or B series bolts? And you...something....washers? Pterodactyl?

-you have a GSR trans? This is a bad choice, my friend.

-What motor is in there? B16A in your first post. Something about a built GSR in another post.

-there are three bolts that go into the transmission via the T bracket. They are all 19mm head (M12?). They are all the same length and use the same washer.

-There is one 17mm head (M10?) bolt that goes to the block via the T bracket.

-Buy the bolts for a EM1 or DC chassis. Doesn't matter.

-The T bracket has to be from a 99-00 Si (EM1).

Chemistry

The motor had 1500+ in new parts & was tuned by slowmotion. It is a 2nd gen b16a, has stage 1 cams, p&p head & was built for high comp NA. It was in a del sol for a exactly 1 week & was pampered & the kid driving hit ice & junked the rear of the car. He then went to jail for some reason & his mom sold me the engine cheap for bail. I don't know what all slowmotion has done but I do have a bag of parts receipts for everything done/bought for the engine.

I personally wanted an ITR trans or b16 hydro but everyone told me for my purposes(Daily drive/weekend warrior) go gsr its the best of both worlds, I also got it very cheap. Why do you say its a bad choice?

I agree with you on the Honda dealer but he wasn't the only person I called. Every different call gave me conflicting information. I figured Honda parts would atleast be able to tell me, the info I was searching for which was exactly what you just posted(head sizes & confirming locations).

I do apologize for the wording in my post. I do try to give as much info as possible & will make sure Im very detailed & clear in any future posts.

tony_2018

So.....read the receipts and see what was done. That wouldve been the first thing i wouldve done, get to know the motor I'mgoing to be doggin out.

tony_2018

The honda part diagram has all of that info. Click the # and it brings up the part you need. Also mishimoto sells slimfans with shrouds, take a look.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

The GSR trans is the worst of both worlds, unfortunately.

It's boggy between gears with a much more torquey B18C1. The B16/ITR gearing is just about necessary for a 1.6L with 111lb-ft. Now that you have headwork and the powerband has moved further up....the GSR trans will make it more boggy.

If you have an opportunity, trade it. Get a B16A LSD or ITR/CTR trans. The best bang for your buck is going to be a 4.78 final drive in a B16/ITR trans. Or atleast a stock B16/ITR trans.

Lot of bad info out there about transmissions. Anyone recommending taller gearing on a NA B16 is uninformed at best.

If their argument is that "taller gearing means better MPG", take a look at EPA MPG ratings for EM1's, ITR's, and GSR's.

Within a week of buying my GSR, I swapped to a B16 trans. No regrets. Car was driven mostly highway.