williscreed

i bought a 97 lx with a d16y7 it smoked like a frieght train so i bought another y7 to put in it. I replaced all gaskets and seals, timing belt, wp, and tensioner left the rotating assembly alone. The motor i bought had no dizzy so i used the one from the old motor also the crank timing gear was different so i used the one from the old motor as well as the crank sensor. put the new motor in the car it started right away and ran like crap. Hooked up a code scanner got random misfire code iacv code and misfire codes on cyl 1 3 and 4 also did compression test cyl 1, 2, and 4 were at 150 cyl 3 was at 40 also was pulling water from the overflow. so i replaced the head gasket, cleaned and used the iacv from the old motor. idles steady now but still misfires on cyl 3. thought it was the injector so i changed them used the ones from the old motor which ran fine except for the smoke. if i pull the connectors off the injectors on 1, 2, or 4 it stumbles and almost dies but pull the connector off of 3 no change in how it runs. Has good spark on 3 but if i pull the spark plug wire it doesnt change how it runs. it no longer is pulling coolant from the overflow. also before i changed the injectors the ce light would come on right away, after no cel unless held at 1500 rpms or so. checked the timing its dead on. cap, rotor, plugs and wires were changed 10,000 miles before i bought the car so i didnt bother replacing the cap rotor or wires but did put new ngk platinum plugs in it after i replaced the headgasket. dont know whats causing this misfire but its driving me nuts. any help is appreciated thanks

Former User

Does plug 3 have bright white spark?

Does injector 3 pulse fuel?

Is the only code for misfire cyl 3?

williscreed

havent checked codes since i replaced the head gasket as i dont personally have a scanner my friend at work has one and hes comin to take a look wednesday. the spark was bright blue when i checked it and i dont know how to check the injector spray if u could explain that to me it would be helpful

williscreed

i did notice when i first started it today before i changed the injectors that the plug in cyl 3 looked brand new after running the engine, and it was bone dry rev the motor up around 4 or 5000 rpms it had some fuel on it thats why i changed all of the injectors

Former User

You don't need a scanner to pull codes. Click the CEL sticky at the top.

Spark should be bright white not bright blue. Blue spark is weak spark.

You can remove the fuel rail with the injectors and then crank the engine. But before you do that, can you hear whether injector 3 clicks when the engine is running?

williscreed

all of the injectors are clicking i used a long screwdriver as a stethescope and listened to them

Former User

Focus on the blue spark. What color is spark at the other 3 plugs?

williscreed

honestly didnt check them but the plugs on the other cylinders have a greyish white residue on them after i ran the engine

williscreed

im not seeing this cel sticky u speak of

williscreed

checked out how to retrieve my codes but its late so i will do that tomorrow b4 work

Former User

The point is that, if only one plug has weak spark, then the problem is the plug, the wire, the cap, or rotor.

williscreed

ok thank you for ur info ill check those thngs in the morning do u know by chance what the voltage on the injector plugs is supposed to be using a digital multi meter

Former User

The same or close to the voltage measured across the two battery posts.

williscreed

ok so around 12-14 volts i tested the voltage on the connectors earlier today and had a fluctuation of 10-14 volts on cyl 1 2and 4 cyl 3 bounced from 8 to 10 volts

williscreed

not trying to be a bother just trying to give u all the info i can because im stumped and too much info is better than not enough

Former User

Turn off all electrical accessories and then turn the key to ON(II) [engine off]. Measure voltage across the two battery posts (=battery voltage). Note it. Now measure voltage to body ground at each unplugged injector clip. The voltage at the clips should be similar to battery voltage. The voltages should be steady rather than bouncing.

williscreed

ok i tested it on the plugs themselves with the engine running

williscreed

i just read your spark test thread and my spark was as you described it should be. Earlier today it wasnt a deep blue but definately had a blue tinge to it was not orange or yellow it was blue/white in color figured id let u know that

williscreed

thats why it was bouncing around i had a probe in both pins of the connector with the engine running just tested it again the way you decribed and it was only 1 volt lower than battery voltage

Former User

Spark should be bright white with only a very slight tinge of blue that is only visible in a dark place.

The only thing left to do here is to remove the fuel rail and check whether injector 3 pulses fuel when the engine is cranked.

williscreed

ok what if it doesnt

Former User

The injector is bad or clogged.

Compare spark at all 4 plugs. Any differences?

williscreed

ill post about the spark and injectors in the morning really dont want to get greasy and smelling like gas before bed but thank you im definitely gonna check that in the morning

HondaPartsHero

What is compression in cyl 3 after the head gasket? 40 is way too low.

williscreed

havent checked compression after head gasket 40 was before the gasket i pulled the codes checked the spark and checked the injectors spark was weaker on 3 than on the rest of the cyl. i didnt see any fuel pulsing from the injectors the codes were 8 tdc sensor, 73 cyl 3 misfire, and 74 cyl 4 misfire