88turdbucket

ok so after checking the timing myself its was off by 6 degrees retarded, i tore it all apart and reinstalled belt, i have everything aligned properly. would it being off that much cause it to not rev past 3500 when warmed up and drove for about an hour and also throw the crank shaft sensor code. i guess i just dont know what else it could be. im going to finish putting it back together and run it. is there a sticky for checking injectors. thanks for any help..


so heres the latest, i got the timing set and the idle set car starts and runs, but now under a load or in gear it has valve chatter when accelerating, and it still wont rev past 3500rpms when engine is warmed up, i did notice while the car is idleing it started to stumble and the car died once but it hasnt again just every once in a while the rpm drops and then picks back up. im past the point of frustration with this thing and when i took it to honda all they could do for me is tell me that they needed 600 to pull the front timing cover apart and look at it some more not fix it. oh and on first start up in the morning it drives jsut fine. well it did yesterday ill find out tomorrow if it does the same thing, if theres anyone close to north richland hills , tx and has some time tomorrow id really appreciate it, thansk again for any help..

88turdbucket

So if by chance I have the dizzy 180 out. Would the car even run and could that be the cause for the valves chattering as bad as they are . Before I redid the timing belt I didn't have the chatter but now I do wether it's cold or got it's there.

Former User

Post pictures showing your crank pulley and cam pulley positioned at TDC1.

Have you checked the ignition timing with a timing gun?

Are any CEL codes currently thrown?

90praylude

$600.00 for a tear down or a fix?

88turdbucket

600 was just for tear down, they didnt know if it would be fixed. right now there isnt any cels thrown but i havent drove it but about 2 miles maybe, all i have done is let it idle in the driveway. when i drove it. it sounded like the valves were smacking the pistons. it didnt do that before . i set the timing right at 12 degrees, unplugged the jumper, and idles is at 670 give or take a few. im going to go over there in about 20 minutes and check tdc compared to where no.1 is located on the dizzy because that was the one thing i didnt look at . i pulled the timing belt offset the crank to tdc and then set the cam. ill try and get some pics this morning when i get there. thanks
..

Former User

If you can set the mechanical timing to spec, then the mechanical timing is fine. Any CEL codes.

88turdbucket

no codes yet just the valve chatter. when accelerating. i just dont understand why the chatter wasnt there before. when all this started i just had the cel p0336 and when it was warm it would randomly die and not go past 3500 rpm like a rev limiter. i changed the sensor and 75 miles later the same cel came back so i checked the timing with a timing light and i set the light to 12 degrees and when i put it on the crank it was reading the single white line byitself and in when i adjusted the light to see how far of i was i couldnt there wasnt enough adjustment in the light, so i assumed the timing was way off and tore into it, i set everything back by book and now the when the car is warmed up and idleing i can set the timing light to 12 degrees and it sits right on the red or middle line . like the book says it should but now i have the chatter and i dont want to drive incase of internal damage .

Former User

Did you set the ignition timing to align the pointer with the red mark (not white mark) on the crank pulley?

88turdbucket

Yes I set the red mark to the pointer. I have to read on how to post pics again. I'm guessing I can't do it from my phone. While it was running is when I set it to the red mark. Well the crank is setting at tdc, the cam sprocket says up at 12 o'clock position and the rotor is pointing at number 1 . I'm assuming that's right.

Former User

Your mechanical and ignition timing is fine. You may be hearing spark knock, which can be caused by bad gas or carbon build up in the cylinders.

88turdbucket

I think that's good news. But it really sounds like 2 midgets in there with sledge hammers banging around. You think seafoam wouldctake care of some of it. And I guess I'll start working on the not going past 3500 when warmed up.

Former User

Are you hearing knock from a spun rod bearing?

88turdbucket

It doesn't sound like it's coming out of the bottom end. It sounds like it's on top. And it never made that noise until I redid the timing. It ran really good actually. The only issue I had then was the 3500 rpm and crank sensor code.