JoshV1288

I just installed a InJen CAI and when i started my car it idles fine but when i get to the 2000-2500 range it short of skips I really dont know how to explain it any better it like a pause when it trying to get air i think

jbpnoman

Any CELs? When was your last full tune up?

JoshV1288

I dont have a OBD reader and everything is brand new on it

jbpnoman

You managed to answer neither of my questions. Is the CEL on, does the bulb work, and when was your last full tune up. "Everything is brand new" doesn't tell us when you last did a tune up, or what parts you used, and you don't need a reader to see if the CEL is on, nor do you need it to pull codes.

JoshV1288

like 3 weeks ago was a tune up new distributor, rotor, plugs, wires, starter, fuel pump, fuel filter

JoshV1288

and i just read how to do CEL i will do tomorrow

jbpnoman

Did you use OEM parts, or parts store parts?

JoshV1288

I bought the from an auto parts store but they are not store brand. I think it has to do with my IAT because it was not hooked up before on old intake(cheap spectra) now that I have it hooked up it doesn't that

jbpnoman

Well, assuming the CEL works and is on, once you pull the codes we can work from there.

JoshV1288

Ok my CEL is not but I tried to pull codes anyway and nothing happened but I asked a mechanic and he said sounds like to much air and not enough fuel or vice versa.

Problem 2
but now my car wont even start idk what happened all it does is pop when i try and start it im thinking starter but its brand new.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

The CEL does not work? I wonder if that's why nothing happened (sarcasm). Try replacing the CEL bulb so you can get the codes or take it somewhere to get the codes scanned. Otherwise you and your mechanic are just going to be sitting there scratching your heads.

And what happens when you put the old intake back on AND plug up the IAT? I'm betting there's a reason it was unplugged.

JoshV1288

The IAT wasnt plugged in the old one so i unplugged it and it still did the same thing

JoshV1288

ok bulb was missing but heres my codes

CEL: 3,7,10,13,65,70,91

SRS: 1, 10

Its starts now also terminal was loose on battery

jbpnoman

For the CEL:

3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
7 TPS - throttle position sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
13 BARO - atmospheric pressure sensor
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
70 Automatic transmission problem
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor

For the SRS:

1 Open or increased resistance in driver's airbag inflator
10 SRS airbags deployed (SRS unit must be replaced)

You have two things to do now.

First, reset the ECU and see which codes return. To do this, simply disconnect the positive battery terminal, try to start the car, reconnect the battery, and start the car. It obviously won't start with the battery disconnected - that is to clear any residual energy from the system to make sure the codes are cleared. See what codes return, and we can work from there.

Second, tell us what you've done to your SRS system.

JoshV1288

CEL after rest

1
3
10
14
65
70
91

and i have done nothing to SRS but idk what previous owner has done

I also hooked back up the spectre and it did the same thing as Injen

I have pic and im uploading a video. is there suppose to be a MAFS inbetween TB and CAI?

JoshV1288

http://s984.photobucket.com/albums/a...125_162842.mp4

jbpnoman

Is your car a 4AT, or a 5MT? No, our cars do not use MAFs, they use MAPs. 14 is new - are you sure you read all of the codes correctly?

I'll go down the list diagnostically for you.

1 O2A - Oxygen sensor #1
3 MAP - manifold absolute pressure sensor
10 IAT - intake air temperature sensor
14 IAC (EACV) - idle air control valve
65 Secondary oxygen sensor heater wire (black wires)
70 Automatic transmission problem
91 Fuel Tank pressure sensor

1 - Look up how to test your O2 sensors. It should be in the stickies somewhere, if memory serves. For this one, you need to test the primary (closest to the head, installed on the header).

3 - Check the color of the wires running to your MAP and post them

10 - Same as 3. It's possible you have the two sensor plugs swapped - it's a common mistake.

14 - Remove your IACV and clean it. Once again, instructions in the stickies.

65 - Same as 1. Test your secondary O2 sensor for this one, focusing on the black wire.

70 - Is your car 4AT, or 5MT? What was it originally?

91 - Start off by replacing your gas cap. We can work from there.

Assuming the SRS codes also returned, your car was more than likely previously wrecked. You need to replace the SRS module. One out of a junk yard from a car that doesn't have air bag deployment should be fine.

JoshV1288

It looks like the previous owner did a tranny swap and i will do those test tomorrow but its currently 5MT

jbpnoman

OK. Four more important questions for you to answer, as well.

A) What is the block code?
B) What is the head stamp?
C) What year/make/model is your chassis?
D) What ECU do you have?

JoshV1288

lol please excuse my me for not knowing how to find any of those a little assistants would be helpful

jbpnoman

Block stamp will be on the front of the block, near the transmission. Should follow the format [letter][number][number][letter][number]. For example, D16Y8, B16A2, D15B7.

Head stamp will be found on the head, near the exhaust manifold. Should follow the format [letter][number][number] - [number][number], or any combination therein of letters and numbers.

Year/make/model. 98 Civic DX? 99 Civic SI? Basic car stuff.

ECU stamp will be on the ECU, on a little sticker on the side. Should follow the format [letter][number][number], or [letter][number][letter]. For example, P28, P2E, P2P, P08. Ideally, it will match your head stamp, but it might not. We don't know how much the PO fucked up this car, so I just want to make sure we cover ALL the bases.

Former User

You may have broken a world record for the number of CEL codes thrown.

Entering your car's VIN here will identify the chassis.

Also post multiple pictures of your engine bay to give a sense about what engine you have.

How did you reset the ECU to clear CEL codes? Are you sure you did it correctly?

JoshV1288

Block Stamp - D16Y5
Head Stamp - 340-20090046? dont know if thats right but it was the only number i could find in that location
Year/make/Model - 97 Civic HX
ECU Stamp- 37820-P2M-A71, Y6-1162-101359 - theses are the only number i found on the YPT sticker

VIN and Tranny VIN are different

VIN - 1HGEJ7222VL083447
Tranny - 1HGEJ8149YL085340

jbpnoman

RonJ - there might be something wrong with the VIN decoder. It keeps 404'ing on me. Tried with both of the OP's VINs, as well as my own.

OP - Yeah, the transmission was swapped. Go through all of the troubleshooting in post #17 and let us know what you come back with.

JoshV1288

ok I didnt do the O2 sensor trouble shooting but I cleaned the IACV and it ran fine after first crack but then the 2 times after it was back to the same stuttering.