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97 Civic hatch/JDM B16- Hesitation accelerating between 2k-3k RPM
I have a 97 Civic hatch with a JDM B16 and JDM ITR tranny. It has some bolt-ons, Skunk 2 intake manifold, Skunk 2 full catback exhaust, eBay headers, eBay intake. Other than that it is stock. It has a chipped P28 with Hondata S100. My problems started after I fried my stock ECU so I scrambled to buy one to get it running. So I bought another stock ECU but it was making my car jerk at lower RPMs (2k-3k RPMs) so I ruled everything out and bought ANOTHER ECU because I thought this one was junked. So the one I bought was in a Turbo B16 Del Sol. So I figured it would work I would just get it tuned later. But nobody messes with S100 anywhere here in the Bakersfield area. So I'm stuck with a ECU that keeps dumping tons of gas and keeps making my spark plugs saturated with gas and don't spark. I want to know what I would have to do to make this ECU to stock B16 base map. Would I have to take off the S100 and get different chip? Any help would be appreciated as I am lost when it comes to ECU and electrical problems lol. Thanks in advance.
So far troubleshooting:
-changed IACV to a brand new one
-swapped TPS but didn't check voltage
-swapped dizzy with newer one
-changed spark plug cables
-changed spark plugs (twice)
-tried resetting ECU maybe I did this wrong
Car will crank but won't start due to no spark. Fuel pump turns on and primes as it should. Checked dizzy and I'm getting spark on all cylinders. If I put new spark plugs it will run good for a day but running real rich before they get saturated and won't spark anymore. I am confident it's the ECU but I don't have access to any more ECUs to try out my theory. I can tell when they begin to get saturated because the car starts to backfire.
Last edited by TypeRHenry; 05-29-2016 at 08:25 PM.
When I try to jump the plug to get CEL Code the CEL turns off then once I take off the paper clip it turns on again. Sometimes CEL doesn't come on and the SRS light stays on instead of CEL. Maybe the guy I bought it from wired something in the ECU to make the SRS light come on?
Jumper tests both the SRS and ECU systems (and ABS if equipped). The SRS light staying on with jumper in (and off while driving) is normal, it means there are no SRS codes.
Is there an easy way to remove the chip and make the ECU use its stock ROM again? As you have a stock NA setup you should not tune the ECU.
By stock ROM do you mean installing the stock chip it had in there before it got chipped and socketed? If so I can try locating one somewhere if it helps my cause. And I thought getting a ECU chipped and tuned was the way to go?
I know that but I was wondering if there's any way to get this ECU fixed to match my build. Or would I have to get ANOTHER one? Also the car won't start now after changing out plugs. WTF?! Arghhhhh!
Are you running a 2-wire IACV? Is it wired properly? OBD1 ECU's require a 2-wire valve. If the car was originally a 3-wire (any model except manual EX), you have to rewire both ends of the harness to use a 2-wire.
So I am starting to think it's my wiring? Maybe a wire came loose during driving? I would like to get opinions as to if these wires are correct? This is a 97 civic with a B16A OBD1 setup. I did not do the wiring on this car. I bought it this way.
After changing the ECU to a stock B16 base map it stopped dumping fuel. But my problem now is that at about 2k RPM it hesitates to accelerate. But once it clears 3k the powerband is smooth. Then once back down to low RPMs it does it again until I pass the 2k-3k mark.
Here is a link to the video I recorded...
It does this when not under load. And when under load it hesitates to accelerate and once past 3k RPM the engine starts to run good.
After changing the ECU to a stock B16 base map it stopped dumping fuel. But my problem now is that at about 2k RPM it hesitates to accelerate. But once it clears 3k the powerband is smooth. Then once back down to low RPMs it does it again until I pass the 2k-3k mark.
Hey Ron. Thanks for chiming in. I know if anybody can help it is you. I tried pulling CEL code from jumping the service plug. But the CEL stays on solid and doesn't blink like it normally would. Idk if it has anything to do with the chipped P28 or something bigger. But it won't let me pull the code. I am a little lost at this point. So CEL won't help at this point unless I buy a scanner which I just might have to get.
Plugs are new, cables are a year old, rotor is OEM so I might change it out and see if that helps, fuel filter was changed 8k miles ago. And I double checked timing and it is TDC.
05-23-2016, 02:45 PM
97 Civic hatch/JDM B16- Hesitation accelerating between 2k-3k RPM
