bscotti

Its an ek with a ls/vtec, i cannot get this pig to run right at all. Every sensor reads 1 volt low
ect-3.5
map-4
tps-.49 idle/4.2 wide open

my car never goes into injector cut and will idle around 12 to 13 air/fuel( i have a wideband)its slow as all can be, the stock d series felt faster.
big piece, i have spent so much money and have tried everything.
Its tuned on chrome using a p28 ecu, its tuned for stock injectors but in order to make the proper fuel i have to run 310 injectors, i have a tune for 310 injectors and it runs way to lean

any one have ideas?

bscotti

i got a huge list of upgrades- dyno made 130 whp, so depressing
gsr head
s2 valves/springs/retainers
blox intake manifold
s2 70mm throttle body
310 rc injectors
adjustable cam gears
b18a1 block
12.1 comp forged pistons
arp rod studs
p28 ecu
type r lsd

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

Get a better tune.

bscotti

i have tried several

jbpnoman

And that tells us that you haven't taken the car to a tuner to have it professionally tuned. That's what Grumble means. Do it.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

I'm not talking about Ebay basemaps.
I've never heard of such nonsense. There is no way a tuner would have you running like this.

bscotti

yes, thats were my problem is. Even the tuner has no idea about it, i got different tunes made for the engine. they all suck, im trying to find a hondata or something for less than expensive.

could it be a ecu problem?

bscotti

my engine runs likes ****. I have been trying to figure out why for sometime. All my sensors are brand new, but heres the problem. All the sensors read low supply voltage, even at the ecu. The ecu is getting proper voltage and proper ground.

my ect voltage is 3.5
tps is.49 closed and 4 wide open
map reads 4

the car idles super rich all the time 12.1 on my wideband, wot fuel isnt bad but when ever i shift gears the fuel drops to 10.1 for a second

car is does not have a turbo

Dc4LsTeG

iTrader: (7)

Do you have a friend with an ecu you could try?

jbpnoman

Who is this tuner? Is this person a professional tuner who you are paying to do this work, while your car is on a dyno? You need to take your car to a shop, and have it tuned by a professional. Don't worry about what software/hardware you're running. If you have some guy online cutting chips for you based off stuff you tell him, you're doing it wrong.

Take your car to a REAL tuner, who will put your car on a REAL dyno, and get your car a REAL tune. If the person doing your tuning is having trouble with the difference between stock and 310cc injectors, you need to find someone who isn't stupid.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You don't get tunes "made". You get basemaps burned to chips "made". This is what you are doing. You are by no means tuned.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

It's your crappy basemaps. /thread.

Former User

Related posts merged. Only one thread per topic is allowed.

What exact Civic do you have?

What wire harnesses are you using?

beecee18

gonna have to figure something out before continuing to wash your bores down

Red_Army

you have an engine problem.
an LS/vtec putting down the same as a d16? something is horribly horribly wrong and i'd find it hard to believe you'll lose 50+ hp in an ecu alone.
even on a straight stock build it should put down WAY more then that.

bscotti

its a 97 civic dx hatch
stock wiring harness converted for vtec
obd1 jumper harness for p28 ecu

bscotti

also another question, at 27 to 31 mph my car shakes under acceleration
no matter how much gas i give it it doesnt change

axles are brand new
halfshaft is brand new
has a type r lsd
wheels bearings are brand new and the rims were re balanced

i heard someone say hasport motor mounts could cause that??? i dont see that true because my d series with hasport mounts was fine

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

One issue at a time.

bscotti

i have way to many....haha