Registered user

i have searched and haven't really found a certain answer to what I am looking for so I am asking here.
First it is a 97 civic lx with a d16y8 engine, just installed it. Reused the fly wheel and clutch, they looked nice and fresh, but the clutch will not fully disengage so I cannot put it into gear while running. I put it in first and started it and I rolls forward, looked at the slave cylinder and it pushes the fork. No visible leaks. bled the lines plenty of pressure. Is there a certain length the slave cylinder pushes? Any other options? I am not a believer blindly installing parts praying that it fixes it, that's a waste of time and money imo

x.l.r.8

I'm just checking but did you get the friction plate the wrong way around. Not even sure this is possible on this car but it sure is on a vauxhall HSR.

eHMxhACk

iTrader: (17)

Did you adjust the clutch pedal free play per the service manual?





eH.

Registered user

I am pretty sure I didn't put the plate in backwards, it's been a few months since I put the clutch on, but I pulled it off the old engine and put it on the new one at the same time so I wouldn't mess it up. I'm not gonna rule that out just yet but I don't want to take it apart yet, it was a pain in my *** to get the engine in lol.

No no I have not adjusted the pedal free play per the owners manual. I did however adjust the rod to be closer to the master cylinder and it did not change anything as far as gear shifting or moving while starting.


Thanks for the help so far.

Registered user

Ok so when it's running and in first I release the clutch to take off and it doesn't grab till it's supposed to but when I start it it creeps forward. Any thoughts?

x.l.r.8

hang on, if you start the car with the trans in first and it releases fine but before then the car creeps forward, it may be that the input shaft has interference with your spigot bearing, did the engine and trans slide together easily? or did you have to do the bolts up to get it to locate properly. I would set up the clutch to the correct spec if you altered anything put it back to where it was, hydraulic clutches by their design take up the wear in the plate. go back to the correct settings, don't try and shortcut and start the car first, all it shows is that the trnas engages when the engine is not rotating and the clutch does no part in that operation, your only concerned when the car is in neutral and the engine is running, you need to make sure the clutch is able to disengage the transmission and re-engage it, any other tests really dont put much light and muddy the waters.

Registered user

It did slide together fine. The more I think about it the more I feel like it's internal. pedal feels fine slave cylinder moves so sounds like I have to drop the trans ugh.

Registered user

Before I take this thing back apart, is it possible for the slave cylinder to work but not fully extend causing this issue?

x.l.r.8

You have countless scenarios, your pedal is not set up correctly and not fully depressing your master cylinder, the master cylinder seals are worn and not pushing enough pressure to your slave cylinder, your salve cylinder is worn not actuating the clutch far enough. The clutch is seized onto the flywheel. The input shaft is fouling on the spigot bearing, the linkage is set wrong preventing gear change. However so far you say you can start the car in gear and the clutch successfully disengages the engine and transmission, meaning the car does not move when running in gear. Am I correct so far?
You then said the car pulls forward when you release the clutch however the information got a bit wild about then. So confirm the pedal is set correctly and the master cylinder is working with no play in the actuation. The slave is just that and if the clutch is actuating there's little more you can check externally, zithers clutch does not need to be inches away from the flywheel to do its job, same as your brakes only move a mm or 2.
so now if the car starts in gear with the clutch down and does not drag on the clutch or creep forward. If so it disengages correctly.
if not then you are pulling the transmission. If the input is spinning slowly while you are trying the engage the car (usually input shaft fouling or spigot bearing collapse) then it will not go into gear from neutral even if you have the clutch engaged. So start there. Be exact in your description and do one thing at a time.

Registered user

Ok let's start over. When I start the car in first gear it creeps forward. This is what I have done so far.
1) I have bled the clutch
2) found what could of been a leak at the master cylinder and replaced it.
3) re bled the clutch
4) checked pedal play and adjustment (good)
5) checked out slave cylinder (pushes the fork)
6) bled the clutch again
7) contunuesly googled possible problems before dropping the trans.

Sorry that my information is all over the place. Sometimes it's hard to write on a phone or constantly getting distracted, people with kids know what that's like lol

x.l.r.8

That makes better coherent reading. Re bleed the clutch , with someone else preferably making sure the pedal comes all the way up and the master cylinder is depressing and returning fully. There is a spring in the master cylinder to push the piston back but that will not be enough to pull the pedal back fully (I apologize if this is not new information but I'm hoping for you it's a simple step) once you take care of the hydraulic side it's time to look at the mechanical. Is the release fork still on the pivot, the release bearing still on the fork properly. Unfortunately your inside the trans belhousing by now so re bleed thoroughly first

B serious

iTrader: (1)

You're sure the pedal freeplay is fine? It should be like 6mm or so. That's like 1/4" of freeplay measured at the pedal.

Registered user

Got the trans apart from the engine and I'm inspecting the throw out bearing, clutch and pressure plate. I see nothing out of place and do not look worn out or wrong. I'm at a complete loss.

mk378

Take the lever off of the pivot ball and make sure it is not cracked. The place that cracks is usually right at the pivot ball.

Registered user

Would that cause it to not disengage?

mk378

Yes, the lever bends instead of all the motion going to the throwout bearing.

Registered user

It's not cracked

eh2_Trav

iTrader: (1)

youre absolutely positive the clutch friction plate isn't backwards?

Registered user

I took off the clutch since I had it apart and the clutch only goes on one way, at least mine will only go on one way.

Registered user

I reinstalled the clutch, and put the car back together.
drove it around the block and it's working good. I'm not sure what the issue was but it's working and feeling good. Thanks for all the help!!!