ehansford22

Ok I'm tired of searching and trying everything possible to get this code gone so i can get my ny state inspection. I have a b16a3 in a converted auto to manual 1997 civic hatch. I've had 5 cel codes. Speed sensor. The intake sensor. Secondary and primary o2 sensors and the ckf sensor. I am down to this pain in the *** primary. So far I've replaced the o2. Thought driving 60 miles or so would clear the code. Didn't work so tonight 1/12/13 I've wired my o2 exactly to my Ecu. I am running a obd2 p72 GSR Ecu. The only things I can think of is a faulty Ecu or to much air flow due to my aftermarket header. PLEASEEE helps. My wiring is correct. O2 is brand new. Fuse 15 is not blown. Looking forward to some advice!!!!!

ehansford22

36 views and no responses. Need some help please!!!!

jbpnoman

Did you try actually resetting the ECU? You haven't mentioned that. Disconnect the battery, try to start the car (no, it won't start, but it clears out the residual power), reconnect the battery, and see if the code comes back.

Former User

Check whether 7.5A dash fuse 15 is blown by voltage testing it installed. Both test tabs should have battery voltage with the key in ON(II).

At the unplugged O2 sensor connector, resistance test the heater element of the "new" primary O2 sensor. It should read 10-40 Ohms.

Test whether the heater element power wire at the unplugged O2 sensor connector (wire harness side) gets battery voltage and also whether the heater element ground wire has continuity to body ground.

ehansford22

Yes sorry disconnect battery for an entire day. No luck, used the obd scan tool to clear it also. It's off for about 3 seconds then comes right back

Racer02gtstang

If it comes right back there is a issue somewhere in the heater circuit

ehansford22

Both tabs have power on fuse 15. Wire harness side plug has battery voltage. Will try the resistance test and continuity ground test. Thanks for the help. You don't think it has anything to do with a defouler issue right.i was gonna try that today and see if it was the exhaust flow messing with the o2?

ehansford22

So could it be the o2 Ecu or the wiring I've just done directly to the Ecu?

Former User

No. It's an electrical issue in the heater circuit of the primary O2 sensor. If the element Ohms out good and gets voltage, then test the element ground wire.

ehansford22

Ok will try this as soon as I can. Thank you for the help guys. Once I try I will come back to my post with updates!!

ehansford22

Ok I was trying to look up on how to test Resistance for the unplugged o2 and the continuity for the heater ground. I have a digital multi reader. Is that what I use and could you give a little detail on how to check them. I'd really appreciate it!

Former User

A digital multimeter is exactly what you need.

Testing ground wire
The heater element ground wire is Blk/Wht.
Unplug the O2 sensor connector.
Turn key to ON(II).
If the meter has a continuity test setting (makes sound if there is continuity), use it for the test
Touch one meter probe to the Blk/Wht wire terminal and one probe to the transmission or engine. You should hear the meter sound.

Do you know how to test for voltage?

ehansford22

That sounds easy enough. And I was looking but if you could knowledge me with the how to on voltage I'd appreciate that to. Thank you

Former User

Testing voltage on O2 sensor heater power wire
The heater element power wire is Blk/Yel.
Unplug the O2 sensor connector.
Turn key to ON(II).
Set meter to read DC volts.
Touch red meter probe to the Blk/Yel wire terminal and black meter probe to the transmission or engine. You should read a voltage similar to the reading across the two battery posts.

ehansford22

Ok thank you. I will try in a few minutes and give an update!

ehansford22

So I tried testing the unplugged o2. It kept getting a reading of OL which means over load right ? Is it possible this could have blew a fuse in my meter. It has stopped working after I got a couple of readings like that

Former User

This means the ground wire is broken or the ECU is not providing ground. This is the problem. Test continuity of the ground wire between the O2 sensor and ECU plugs. if you touched the meter probes together, what is the reading?

Does the plug get voltage on the power wire?

ehansford22

When I touched them together I got a reading of about .04 the meter stopped working. I think I might have popped the fuses in the back of my multi meter

Former User

So you no longer get an Ohm reading when you touch the two probes together? If not, you may need to replace the battery in the multimeter.

ehansford22

I no longer have the multimeter working. It will not turn on. I have changed the battery's in it and it still will not turn. Do you think anything could have happened to it from taking the readings. There are two fuses in the back of the meter. I'm thinking they popped?

Former User

Open the meter up and check for a blown fuse. Otherwise, get your hands on another multimeter.

ehansford22

I believe they are blown. Fuses are the small cylinder looking ones. Both glass pieces are white. Can not see through them at all so I'm guessing there shot. Will be replacing the fuses tomorrow after work. And getting back to the Honda. Will have an update tomorrow. Thanks again for the help!!

ehansford22

I'm an idiot. I misread and thought you said to check the wires on the actual o2 sensor (non harness side) I'm suppose to be checking the harness side for resistance and continuity correct? The black/white and black/yellow?

Former User

The resistance test of the heater element is done on the O2 sensor-side of the unplugged O2 sensor connectors.

The voltage and ground tests are done on the wire harness-side of the unplugged O2 sensor connectors.

ehansford22

Ok thanks for clearing that up for me. Almost out of work. Will be stopping by radio shack for the fuses then going home to test them