Preach1970

I have a 96 civic hatchback D16Y7 with a TD80U distributor.
After replacing the cap, and wires during a tune up prior to emissions testing , the car lugged and stalled. It will crank but not start ignight gas / fuel.

I have:
checked and confirmed the spark on the coil and the plugs.
Checked and confirmed the fuel fuses relays and pump priming.
Metered the CKP TDC and CYP sensors in the distributor :
CKP 337 Omh / 350 -700 Omh manuel spec.
TDC 331 Omh / 350 -700 Omh manuel spec.
CYP 332 Ohm / 350 -700 Omh manuel spec.

I have NOT : Lack of meters
metered the fuel pressure but smell the gas in the cyl.
Metered the compression.
Pulled the timing belt cover to inspect the belt

I expected there to be a CEL thrown and in looking for it noticed a tiny smear at the temp gauge..... they didn't. Yes the previous owner SUPER GLUED THE TEMP GAGE . I pulled the cluster then noticed they also removed the bulb to the Check Engine Light. I replaced it and got a CEL # 6 the ETC.

SO ... would a faulty Electronic Coolant Temp sensor affect the ignition... I don't think so but....

Or are the numbers metered on the CKP TDC and CYP out enough to cause a no start?

Any advise would be helpful .

HondaPartsHero

Check the coil according to the FAQ and post the results

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

You also need to check ignition timing. After replacing a distributor, you ALWAYS have to reset ignition timing.

Preach1970

AS per the FAQ and the manual:
Primary terminals resistance is 0.7
Positive and secondary (springy windy) terminal is 15.86k

The manual gives a 0.6 to 0.8 range on the primary
and 12.8 to 19.2 k on the positive to secondary.

If I am reading this correctly the coil is fine?

Preach1970

Ignition timing or valve timing. I am under the impression that the ignition timing is set with the engine running and is taken off the valve timing through the distributors cam shaft position sensor. Or am I mistaken?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Yes. Ignition timing is adjusted by the ECU with the car running, but it's adjusted off a baseline, and is a "dumb" system. You need to set base ignition timing, or it won't run correctly. You can find a DIY how-to in the FAQs sticky.

Valve timing is mechanical timing. It's handled by the timing belt. You shouldn't need to touch that.

Preach1970

If you are referring to setting the timing while the service port (the two wire connector used to throw the CEL reading) is bridged with a wire, That is the condition it luged, died and will not restart in.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

OK, so you didn't fully install the distributor.

Let's start off with the occasional stupid mistake: Make sure your plug wires are in the correct order.



You said you made sure you had spark, but is it bright white?

Preach1970

Ok to be clear. I replaced the cap and roter when it died. As a matter of good practice I only replace on spark wire at a time and double check the firing order. The diagram is the way it was wired. As i recall the spark was white.

Preach1970

So the spark is confirmed white and I pulled the valve cover to look at the timing belt. It looks in good condition.

Preach1970

Update:
I have gone through all the posibilities and the bought a compression gauge today. here are the results:
Cyl 1: 135
Cyl 2: 100
Cyl 3: 80
Cyl 4: 130

The manual calls for a minimum compression of 135. Would this cause a no start and the timing of it going out is just a coincidence to changing the cap and roter?

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

Coincidence. Those numbers look like a damaged head gasket.