ekhatch1227

Specs:
96 civic
Jdm 96spec b20b low intake 45k
Obd2 wiring harness
Chipped po6 ecu stock b20b basemap
Gsr trans
Run 93 octane
New plugs wires cap.

issue im having has a low idle almost like it has a cam and has a slight misfire.
retimed timing belt no improvement
I have checked wiring all grounds are good.
Added a fuel pressure gauge on top a fuel filter and get 30 at idle.
No check engines light
No o2 sensors but was chipped to delete the cel.
pops and backfires when partial throttle decelerating.
spark plugs looked greyish
Idles low after pressing throttle and let go. Have tried swapping throttle bodies
Any suggestion would be great.

ekhatch1227

Also put a new intake manifold gasket on no improvement

tony_2018

I'm trying to understand this, what the hell is the reason behind getting a chipped ecu if you're just running the basemap of a stock ecu? Why not run an obd2 ls ecu?

carlos8

I understand he have b20b stock map on the p06 chipped ECU.

Something like this happen to me, hard start, low idle, misfire and no CEL. Ended been tranny ground, despite I clean all the grounds points the tranny to frame ground wire had oxide inside.

ekhatch1227

I ran fresh ground wires when I put the motor in but ill reground it woth some jumper cables to the frame to check ill let you know the outcome.
Also if I dont let it warm and and drive it, it will want to idle so low when coming to a light to almost stalling (sometimes does stall out). I screwed the fitv all the way down with no help. Im at a loss. My cel does work btw.
And I used an obd1 po6 chipped becuase I used an obd2 ls ecu with the cranksensor bypass and it didnt like it. Obd1 has no crank sensor and only 1 oxygen sensor to worry about

marc59

Did you check to see if your map and tps wires are reversed?

ekhatch1227

I checked they are in their correct locations. It runs and drives just the idle issue. It backfires if I let off the gas after accelerating espicially if I keep a slight foot on the pedal. Does not smoke or burn any oil at all.

ekhatch1227

Ground wires are okay made two extra temporary grounds and it didnt help.

ekhatch1227

Replaced rotor button still has the rough loping idle. Its getting 30kg/cm fuel right off the fuel filter. Plugs wires cap and rotor button are brand new. Getting air. Im at a loss. All ground wires are new no corrosion or bad connection. No check engine lights.
B20b p75 head.
93 octane fuel

Former User

Clean IACV and also FITV, if the engine has one.

Adjust idle speed as per B20b service manual.

What's the rationale for disabling the primary O2 sensor?

ekhatch1227

Had the ecu chipped at a shop and it was his decision.
I was doing some reason I added a fuel pressure gauge to the top of the fuel filter it reads 30psi with ignition on and the same 30psi at idle. If im not mistaken is this reading a little low than what a factory b20 should be running at (40-47psi) spakr plugs pulled did seem to have white residue as a lean issue would cause

ekhatch1227

Also I have cleaned iacv and cleaned the fitv and screwed it back in with no help. Also have swapped to another throttle just to see with no help. My only thought is my fuel pump is weak causing a lean running engine hence low idle and misfire especially after releasing throttle. Correct me if im wrong

visiblystealthy

iTrader: (1)

isn't fuel pressure supposed to be ~38 psi or above? my jdm type r at idle sits at 42 psi.

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

That's what I thought and that's where my pressure sits at idle.

Former User

From the CRV service manual: (looks like the FPR may be bad)

visiblystealthy

iTrader: (1)

Fuel pressure seems to be fine according to the diagram posted from the service manual. Did you make sure you calibrated tps? Does your throttle plate feel "sticky"? e.g. open throttle plate all the way and let it spring closed. Does it seem to stick when trying to open it again or does it move free and smooth?

Former User

With the key in ON(II) [engine off], the pressure should have been higher than 30 PSI (38-46 PSI).

At idle, the pressure is within spec, but on the low end.

visiblystealthy

iTrader: (1)

With the vacuum line disconnected and pinched idling, or if car won't start koeo pressure should be 38-46. Vacuum line connected and idling 30-37 psi

Former User

Are you now agreeing?

visiblystealthy

iTrader: (1)

no, fuel pressure increases when disconnecting vacuum line to fpr. re-read the first paragraph from service manual you posted.... He never stated anything about testing fuel pressure with fpr vacuum line disconnected. Seems you are assuming he did this step. I assume, since he made no mention of the fpr vacuum line during his fuel pressure readings, that he did not disconnect the vacuum line. Hence the no change in psi. Had he disconnected the vacuum line and pinched it during koeo, and it remained 30psi, I would then agree with you.

Former User

There's no need to disconnect the FPR vacuum hose when testing pressure with the key in ON(II) [engine off] because there's no vacuum produced by the engine, like at WOT with engine on.

OP wrote:

visiblystealthy

iTrader: (1)

I see what you're saying, I was reading step 3 verbatim, but you are correct. No vacuum with vehicle off. Now we just assume he turned key on for 2 sec turned off then turned key back on for another 2 seconds then told us it was 30psi with key on?

ekhatch1227

Ill clear up confusion lol
all hoses connected and turn ignition on but no start it reads 36-38psi.
then started at idle: 30psi
unplug fpr while idling: 39psi
Plug back in: 30psi
Quick rev it will jump up but still return to 30psi with a lopy idle with a noticeable miss out of the tailpipe.

ekhatch1227

Let it idle then shut it off and turn ignition to on no start it will drop fuel pressure back down to 30-32.

Fuel pressure gauge is mounted on top of fuel filter for clarification

Former User

Your original post was incorrect. Your new post above indicates that the fuel pressure is fine.