thavarin

Is this normal? I just recently had a buddy put on a T3/T4 turbo kit running on stock internals, no fuel management, no chipped ecu. Just basic.

Car is running like crap. I have alot of smoke coming from the crankcase, now is that normal? Or does that have to do anything with vacuum lines. I don't know that much about cars. So you might have to explain it to my noob self.

Thanks.

The Lobster

say good bye to your motor.

no fuel managment = BOOM

Ice78transam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by The Lobster &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">say good bye to your motor.

no fuel managment = BOOM</TD></TR></TABLE>

Sounds like it. Try tuning your car at least roughly. Are you using an FMU?

Kurly

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thavarin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">no fuel management</TD></TR></TABLE>

Fail..

thavarin

Yes I have an FMU. So engine pretty much - gone to shietz?

sigh.

Luserkid

Where is the smoke coming from? Do you have a catch can system? Tuning will help alot as well as a good vent system.

ke98248

iTrader: (1)

TURBO BASIC FAQ:

Firstly, an exhaust manifold comes from an NA motor, so you'll need a turbo manifold. They come in many forms, Ram horn, top mount, log manifold, etc... Log manifold is by far the cheapest and it spools really quickly -- plus it's quite reliable if build right the first time. Here's what else you'll need for your car:

Turbocharger: Pick which size and trim turbo is gonna work best for your application and goals. A regular T3 turbo is usually good for 250WHP, a t3/t4 up to 400WHP, and a t4 400+ WHP... I'd recommend a ball-bearing garrett turbo, a nicely sized t3/t4 turbo, not too large or too small TRIM/AR size.

Downpipe: Again must be custom for your turbo/manifold choice. A flex pipe and o2 bung are nice to have while creating a downpipe -- although not necessary.

Wastegate: Choose a wastegate size (also what psi spring you'd like to run) according to application such as amount of air flow and psi from turbo.. This is if you have a turbo that's externally wastegate powered..

Intercooler: Choose either a FMIC (Front Mount InterCooler) or Side Mount Intercooler. FMIC is the only way to go really for efficient cooling..

Blow off valve: This is actually an optional (but very recommended part). Doesnt really matter which one you choose. Pick a sound you like. Some people like to use ebay or cheap BOV's, but if it fails, you can hurt your turbo -- so don't really cheap out.

Fuel Management: One of the most important parts on your turbocharged car. I would highly suggest running a programmable chipped ecu or standalone device. I'd suggest Hondata or Crome..

Fuel Pump : You will probably need an upgraded fuel pump to support the added fuel consumption. Can be either internal or external -- I recommended the Walbro 2550LPH hi pressure fuel pump kit from injected-performance.com on H-T's marketplace for sponsors

Injectors : To support added air induction, more fuel is need... hence bigger injectors. Buy size according to application.

Map Sensor: Stock maps can only read up to ~10.63 psi, if you plan to go higher upgrade to a 2bar or 3bar map sensor.

Intercooler Piping: You can buy a ic piping kit, but usally will always take some modification to fit your exact application.. I believe ebay has some kits that have flanges made for the greddy BOV's for around $150 shipped

Couplers/t-bolts: You will need silicone couplers to bind the two intercooler pipes together as well as t-bolts -- I don't recommend screw clamps for anything other than for your intake pipes for your custom Short Ram

Oil drain/feed lines: Every turbo needs oil, so you must buy an oil feed and drain line kit. Stainless Steel lines are HIGHLY recommended. Rubber lines will get hot and can/will burst.

Vacuum Manifold: Not required but recommended to help organize vacuum lines and allow for good vacuum sources. I'd use Golden Eagle's Vacuum manifold.

Gauges: although not required, it's highly recommend so you can keep some status of motor operation. boost/oil pressure highly recommended

Spark plugs: Although not required, turbo temps can get high, so i recommend you step down two steps colder in your spark plugs. Also copper too.. You need NGK BKR7E.. For SOHC it's: ZFR7E-11 spark plugs..

I have a bunch of helpful links I submitted to the Honda Civic/Del Sol (1992-2000) forum FAQ:

http://www.beesandgoats.com/bo....html
http://www.hondacivicforum.com/m_400322/tm.htm

HOW TO INSTALL THE TURBO AND EVERYTHING -- THE BEST TUTORIAL ON THE WEB: https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1263795

P.S. WITHOUT TUNING -- SAY GOODBYE TO YOUR MOTOR..

I highly suggest reading a few!

Ice78transam

<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by thavarin &raquo;</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Yes I have an FMU. So engine pretty much - gone to shietz?

sigh.</TD></TR></TABLE>

We don't know that, could just be a leak. But if your boosting on a stock fuel map, its gonna be a fail. Get your motor looked at the TUNED!!!

oneiro

Check pcv valve on the breather box behind the block, do a a compression test, that should tell ya some things, A tune will make it run alot better, which I should do myself I'm just too cheap to get my engine tuned, and I got a revhard running on 6psi all year long DDed.. but I drive like a bitch

thavarin

thanks guys, I'm taking it to the shop to at least get tuned in a few weeks. No $$$ I bought a E46 Bimmer since this car been down for over 4 months now...