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Hope you guys like word problems...Auto to manual swap with manual intake, throttlebody, and ecu. Car ran great for the 5 minutes it was cold. MPG was suffering and bogging seriously when warm so I decided to do a valve adjustment. Completed that and started her up. No more valve tap and she runs smooth but before I take her out for a spin why not check the ignition timing. Jumped service connector and ignition timing is at 2° btdc according to the crank pulley. So i checked mechanical timing and was found to be off a tooth. Set it correctly (used straight edge with head cover deck) and now that ign timing is where it should be, I have to max out distributor to get it there though. But the caveat is that it runs horrible. I have to feather the throttle to get rpms up, takes a minute or so when driving to get to 30 mph... not drivable. So after a "few" more adjustments which didn't work. I brought the parts shotgun out. Ngk plugs and wires, cap n rotor, fuel fulter, tps, aftermarket distributor. Nothing different. Reloaded the shotgun and took off the intake manifold. Got in there all nice and deep like and super cleaned it. Cleaned the injectors outside and did the carb cleaner pulse clean with them. Cleaned out fuel rail. Replaced all coolant and vacuum hoses. New "thermal" gaskets thought they were thicker). Cleaned throttle body again. Cleaned iacv. Cleaned pcv. Put back together and he'll yea brother... runs the same. Not my style but I put it back to the incorrect tooth position and it will drive down the road but hesitates. Im positive i left out some details somewhere. It's about 2 feet from the edge of the cliff please help.
Is the engine mechanical timing and ignition timing currently set to spec? If so, leave it there.
When you set the ignition timing, the engine must be fully warmed up and idling to spec with the service connector jumped. How are you monitoring idle speed?
Are any CEL codes thrown?
Do all wire colors in sensor connectors match the sensors?
Thanks guys for the prompt responses that's awesome. I use a straight edge machinist rule from the top of head surface to the cam pulley and both fore and aft were on point. All the while crank pulley is perfectly in line with both sights on the single white mark on crank pulley. It's currently off a tooth because it runs better that way and trust me it took me a whole month of troubleshooting to put it to the incorrect setting. And it hurt my pride as well.
It's currently off a tooth because it runs better that way and trust me it took me a whole month of troubleshooting to put it to the incorrect setting. And it hurt my pride as well.
If you are confident with your ability to properly set the engine to TDC1, then set it correctly and troubleshoot from there. You can't solve the problem with the engine off a tooth.
Also I let it warm up and fan kick on as the manual states. With blue service connector jumped and check engine light blinking to ensure positive connection.
I do not know if this will be correct for your situation, but in my brothers auto - manual swap on his Integra we could not get the ignition timing in spec. We ran through the timing belt and tensioner again and again, set idle, set ignition timing, and it would always be 'just' off.
Turns out there are different distributors between autos and manuals. We discovered this when we looked up the part numbers through a Honda parts website. We purchased a manual version distributor, viola! Timing was spot on. The only difference we could see between the two was a solenoid of some sort on the auto that was not there on the manual.
Ok I'll set it correctly and report back probably later tonight. It killed me to put it back but I bought the car and ran it off a tooth (not knowingly of course) for 15000 miles. I really appreciate the help guys!
Not sure why to be honest with you... i wrote it off early for some reason and in my brain always looked at it at petty but you may be on to something. I threw in a new one so it must be wiring somewheres. Motor is probably kicking into safe mode and I am overriding it with mechanical timing (not on purpose). Ill let you know what happens.
Not sure why to be honest with you... i wrote it off early for some reason and in my brain always looked at it at petty but you may be on to something. I threw in a new one so it must be wiring somewheres. Motor is probably kicking into safe mode and I am overriding it with mechanical timing (not on purpose). Ill let you know what happens.
I'm looking forward to reading your future post saying that your car is running smoothly after clearing the KS code. Be sure to recheck the ignition timing afterwards.
Wow put it on the correct mechanical timing in 31 minutes wheels up to wheels down. OK so putting my pride in the back pocket of my back pocket, I replaced the oil pressure switch before not the knock sensor. I misread the service manual because for some reason the block is upsidedown in the schematic. Long story short is that the knock sensor on my car is broke and connector is hanging. That being said I'll get to that tomorrow so stay tuned. Thanks again for the input.
OK so putting my pride in the back pocket of my back pocket
Thank you for knowing when to set that aside. Too often I see people get mad at Ron or other smarties because they couldn't admit they'd miscalculated or made a mistake. Best of luck to you.
07-03-2015, 04:06 AM
96 D16y8 runs better when off a tooth?
