fernando.

I'm gettig my '96 cx hatch ready to use for winter and ever since I bought it the brake pedal goes down a lot before any braking resisitance is felt and it's quite a lot compared to my Integra. Now, when I bought the car I thought it just need new pads, or the rear shoes needed to be adjusted, but apon inspection I noticed the pads all around were atleast 90%. There's the correct amount of fluid in the resivoir and I also adjusted the rear brakes via the screw on the drum and on the ebrake handle. Is there anything else that causing the pedal to go down so far before any braking is felt? Maybe I'm just stupid, lol.

fv8s

the master cylinder is most likely worn/ going bad. not having a firm pedal is usually caused by that

Adamvanxxx

Try bleeding the brakes and possibly flushing the fluid before you determine its the MC.

CarlyRae00Z

If it was the Master Cylinder the pedal would most likely sink to the floor while you hold down the brakes. Some cars have adjustable pedals although this might not be the case with the brake pedal but it never hurts to check.
If you have no problems braking in an emergency then you shouldnt have a problem.
It never hurts to bleed the brakes if you are unsure though.

fernando.

Alright cool, thanks guys. It stops perfectly fine, I'm just not used to the pedal going down so far.

MattNYC

im having this issue now. MC gonna go sometime in the near future. jdm onlines got itr booster an MC for 89.00

fernando.

To the mod that changed my title, thanks.... but I never said it was soft, I said it travels a lot before braking pressure is felt. The pedal isn't soft.

Former User

^Title edited.

Have you thoroughly bled the brake hydraulic system in the proper wheel sequence?

fernando.

I have not, but I'll give it a go. And thanks.

Targa250R

Keep in mind that you generally will not have as short of a pedal travel in a Civic CX as in an Integra LS/GSR. The hydraulic systems have differently sized components.

There are three things you should check that can adversely affect pedal travel:
- front caliper slide pins
- rear shoe adjustment
- brake fluid

If your caliper pins are well-lubed and sliding freely, your rear shoes have been adjusted properly, and you have bled the brake fluid and are certain that there is no air trapped inside the lines, then you aren't going to make it feel much shorter without changing hydraulic components.

This is assuming that your master cylinder seals aren't faulty and you have no leaks in the hydraulic system (i.e. caliper piston seals, wheel cylinders, lines, etc.). Typically, a failing master cylinder will cause the pedal to sink to the floor while holding steady pressure at a stop.

The proper bleeding sequence for a non-ABS Civic is passenger rear > driver front > driver rear > passenger front.