TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

I have a 96 civic cx hatch that has had multiple engine swaps from b16,gsr,ls,type r and finally ls-t. The car has always had a problem with temp gauge not working correctly I have tried multiple clusters and needle broke on few. When i put the key on position 2 temp jumps up to middle and then when I turn on the car it goes up all the way to H as the cars warms up and stays there? My radiator fan dont come on by itself as well so I just jump it at the fan switch so its always on due to me never knowing the real temparature. I have traced temp wire yellow green from switch to cluster and seems to be good.

If anyone has any imput I surley would apriciate it. Thanks

Former User

Use a multimeter to check for a short in this^ wire.

dpetro1

there are three sensors when to comes to coolant temp. your fan problem and gauge cluster problem are probably not related.

1-wire sensor under the dizzy controls the needle on the cluster
2-wire sensor under the dizzy sends ECT to the ecu.
2-wire switch in the thermostat housing controls the rad fan.

test the gauge cluster wiring and sending unit like this:


then report back

TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

I checked today with multimeter and there is no breakage in the wire I did test from cluster to the temp sensor wire.

TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

resistance from PT to EG is 1.067

Former User

You need to check for a short not an open (broken wire).

Start by unplugging the 1-wire sending unit under the distributor. Does this make the cluster temp gauge needle stay at Cold?

TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

If I unplug it, it just stays at middle if its on H it drops to middle when unpluged

Former User

If the wire running from the sending unit to the cluster does not have a short (continuity to body ground), then the cluster or temp gauge is bad.

TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

So the 4 clusters I have changed were all bad? i had a dx ex si and now ctr cluster they all cant be bad. I mean the gauge goes back to 0 when car is shut off is spikes to middle when key is turned.

Former User

Unplug the cluster and the sending unit and measure resistance to body ground from either end of the wire using a multimeter. This will tell you whether there is a short, which seems likely based on what you have said.

TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

I cut plug from spare harness spliced it to a new wire ran it to gauge cluster cut the cluster wire and same outcome, spikes to middle even with new wire ran to it. I left cluster wire cut, still spikes to middle with nothing connected to it.

Former User

The short must be in the cluster connector with sending unit wire. Carefully inspect that connector and the terminal for the sending unit wire for damage.

TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

Another weird thing even with the cluster plug with Y/G wire unplugged still spikes lol but when the one on the left is unplugged it drops

Former User

This^ means it's a cluster or temp gauge problem. The Yel/Grn wire pins to connector B (B12) and power for all the gauges pins to connector C (C4). Unplugging connector C should make the temp gauge needle drop to Cold.

TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

Ok you know what im having my friend bring his midori EK tomorrow I will put his cluster in and I can bet on same outcome, if so what you suggest from there?

Former User

If you unplug connector B and the temp needle still reads halfway, then the cluster or temp gauge MUST be the problem.

TheMightySi

iTrader: (5)

I will report back tomorrow