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96 Civic Coupe EX power window woes

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Old 11-16-2004, 11:05 AM
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Default 96 Civic Coupe EX power window woes

I bought a beater 96 Civic Coupe EX back in August.
One of the know problems w/ the car was there is no motor in the drivers door for the power window. I've been working on the car when my bush schedule allows it, but I think I'm nearing the limit of my patience with this.

I got a motor, plugged it in and didn't work. Assumed bad motor and swapped it @ the salvage yard. New motor didn't work either. Checked Fuses, any fuse pertaining to the window looks good. Swapped out Fuses # 11 and 24 just in case. Still nothing.
Swapped out the switch panel, still not working.

What is the next step? Swap out the drivers door wiring harness or surrender to the dealer mechanic?


Clif notes: power window no worky. 2 motors, 2 switch panels, and fuses tested, still no worky.
Old 11-16-2004, 11:36 AM
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Try power window relay. It's the small 4-pin black one in the fuse box, next to the real big one. Only costs about $5 for a new one at the dealer so not a real expensive experiment...

But...tell me, does the passenger one work? If that one works then it probably isn't the relay, could be your switch.
Old 11-16-2004, 11:39 AM
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Pass window DOES work (on both of the switches).
Old 11-16-2004, 11:41 AM
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Default Re: 96 Civic Coupe EX power window woes (coil222)

You could also try using a multi-meter and check wire continuity between the fuse box and the switch etc...that will help you track down the problem.
Old 11-16-2004, 11:59 AM
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ive got one but I'm kinda sketchy on how to use it.

I THINK I've tested that the wires that power the motor are not seeing any electrical signal while the wires that power the pass. side motor are. I will probably test @ the fuse box next time I get a chance to work on it. Busy all week and weekend again (VERY busy month).
Old 11-16-2004, 12:33 PM
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Testing the fuse box will not help you much, you are obviously getting power from the fuse box to the switches or the passenger one wouldn't work. The driver switch is probably bad. Get a Haynes manual, it shows you what pins to put the tester probes into to test for signal on all that stuff. In the electrical section of the book.
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