96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion.
01-23-2005, 09:08 AM
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96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion.
I was looking through the FAQ writeup thread and came across the 99-00 civic front end conversion writeup.
No offense to the guy who posted it but I did one this summer and its a lot more detailed.
http://www.civicland.com/forum...=4759
This is a write up of how to install a 99-00 front end on the frame of your 96-98 civic. It works for hatches, coupes and sedans.
There are 2 ways to go about doing this. 1. You can ghetto rig it and use the 96-98 radiator support, or 2. you can do it the hard way and cut the radiator support off, We tried to use the 96-98 support at first, but the bumper had major fitment issues and we just wanted to make sure to do this right.
Tools you will need:
3/8' Ratchet
medium extension
10, 12, and 14mm sockets
10 mm open ended wrench
Phillips and flat head screwdriver
hammer and chisel
Sawzall with metal blade
4" Circular grinder with 2-3 heavy duty metal grinding wheels.
mechanix gloves
face mask(to cover your mouth)
Protective eyewear.
long sleeved shirt
pants
2 trusted buddies to help you out
a weekend where you dont need your car.
Parts you will need:
99-00 OEM hood
99-00 OEM or JDM fenders (we used the JDM Civic Type R fenders)
99-00 OEM Radiator support
99-00 OEM Front bumper (i suggest finding one that was on a civic Si, because then you get the nice looking lip for free)
99-00 OEM or JDM Grille(we used the JDM because it doesnt have the emblem)
If you want you can buy a 99-00 bumper support also, but we used the 96-98 and made it work(slight fitment issue there, but its manageable)
The following is how we did this conversion, you can do it in any order and it will still work out....for the most part.
Step 1: Pop your hood, disconnect your negative battery terminal (you dont want your airbags going off on you).
Step 2: Take your front bumper off. theres 5 phillips screws on top, and one at each side (you have to peel the fender lining back a little here to get to them), and 2 10mm bolts underneath. If you havent taken your bumper off ever, you may have to jiggle it a bit to break it loose, shouldnt be too big of a deal, dont worry it'll come off. (see above photo for what its supposed to look like with the bumper off.)
Step 3. Start undoing the bolts for the headlights, there are 2 on top one on the outer sides, theres a 10mm bolt holding a small piece of metal on the bumper support, which in turn hold ths light in place, remove that piece, and throw them to the side, you wont be needing those.
Step 4. With the headlights and the front bumper off, take off the front bumper support. there are 2 obvious 12mm bolts on teh sides, but there are 2 hidden bolts (1 on each side) bolting the bumper support to the radiator support. Grab your extension, and the 12mm socket and have at it.
Step 5: With your headlights, bumper/grille, and bumper support off, take the hood and the fenders off now. The hood comes off by unbolting the 4 10mm bolts holding it on. no secret there, however watch the windshild nozzle hose...we kinda forgot about it and got shot in the face with windshield washer fluid, not our cup of tea but if you enjoy it more power to you.
Fenders are the most sneaky part to ever take off your car. I can tell you know they are evil. There are 3 10mm bolts in plain view under the hood, then there is another hidden by the door. Open your door, grab the extension again and take off the 10mm bolt there. Then go down to the bottom part of the wheel well, there is a screw there, undo that, now you have to pry your sideskirts back a little to uncover 2 more 10 mm bolts hiding under the sideskirt. We did this without jacking the car up and got frustrated and broke off a few clips here and there. Nothering that really affects the performance or anything
Ideally, to do this correctly, jack up the car, undo the screws that are holding the side skirt on the car, then carefully undo the clips with a screwdriver until the front part pops off. You dont need to take the entire skirt off, just need to pry it off a little to gain access. Once you do that its smooth sailin to take the fenders off. Take the fenders off, then move back under the car while its still jacked up and remove the 3 12mm bolts that are holding the radiator and the A/C condenser bolted to the radiator support.
Step 6: Heres where the metal work comes in. We didnt realize this until we were neck deep in the donkey doo, but the radiator support is welded onto the frame of the car....Really bolt on huh? There are 2 spot welds on each corner of the top of the radiator support (up where the lights are). <FONT SIZE="7"><FONT COLOR="red">CAREFULLY</FONT></FONT> Take your hammer and chisel and pound out the welds. I say carefully because the metal there is all aluminum and it bends VERY easily. if you mangle it you wont be able to get the new rad support on there.
So repeat on both sides until you disconnect the welds that are holding the top part onto the frame of the car. It'll look like this when you are done.
Step 7: Heres where the fun starts.
Take your sawzall, and your metal cutting blade, and make 2 incisions, one at the top of where each light was...kinda hard to explain, but we picked a center point in between the frame of the car and the corner of the light. Cut it where you wish, so long as its in between the frame of the car and where the radiator support bends...look carefully at the pic to see where we cut it.
Once you make those 2 cuts, you are done with the sawzall for now, got out your trusty Grinder and be prepared to see some metal fly. <FONT SIZE="7">WARNING!! IF YOU CANT STAND A LITTLE PAIN AND/OR ARE AFRAID OF SPARKS, GET SOMEONE ELSE TO DO THE REST OF THIS FOR YOU</FONT> I reccomend that you stop now, go put on Mechanix gloves, long sleeved shirt, face mask, protective goggles, long pants, and closed toed shoes the rest of the time.
Step 8: Cut the middle support beam with the grinder so that you can get that metal tube thats running across the front of the car out of the way. once you have cut through that. unbolt the hors, and the hood latch fromt he radiator support and try to place them as far under the car as possible.
Step 9. This is important. You have to look where you are cutting when you do this. Our car was a DX so there was no cruise control/abs any of that stuff under the hood which gave us an advantage. There are 6-10 spot welds holding the radiator support to the 2 frame beams of the car. To get to those, you have to start cutting. Now, I suggest MARKING OFF EXATCLY where to cut...well if not exactly as accuratley as you can to the line you are supposed to cut. Now, you want to cut towards the middle part of the radiator support on both sides. We just went 2" to the inside of the frame and made a cut straight up and down making sure to keep the cutting wheel away from any and all wires that were behind the radiator support. Once you cut all the way through both sides, and you have the middle piece cut enough so that you can slide that tube through, you can take the piece of the radiator support off, throw it across the yard and stop it beyond recognition.....well maybe not but thats what we did and it made us feel better. Your car should look like this now.
Note where we cut the radiator support, use your judgement when cutting, obviously if there are wires and stuff back there. MOVE THEM before you cut, because remember that metal gets VERY hot when cutting it, so hot that wires WILL melt if left too close to it.
Step 10. Put the grinder down. grab something to eat, let the metal cool back down. When you come back to it, grab your hammer and chisel and start pounding out the welds. Start with the top center weld and work your way around. by the time you get tot he middle weld, the chisel will be usless because that is triple stamped steel there, and theres no chance of you chiseling it all off.
Step 11: grinding the metal away...This part gets a little tricky, you have to pay close attention to what you are doing here. You do not want to mess with the frame of the car, so you have to be very careful when cutting here. to make things easier we cut down the middle first , then cut around the sides of the stamped steel. Once you have the middle section cut out (theres is an empty space behind it) then grind the edges to that all the steel is gone and the frame is exposed.
This is what it looks like when you are done grinding.
Now you are ready to bolt up your 99-00 front end.
First install your fenders, adjust them so that the door doesnt catch them when you open/close the door.
Once the fenders are on, do the radiator support. Get that piece on the car, and line it up with the stock frame holes. (see thats why its so important NOT to mangle up any metal while doing this.)
Put the radiator and the AC/Condernser in thier proper holes first then swing the rad. support forward and line it up with the holes.
Bolt the 3 bolts back up underneath, then bolt the top bolts in place.
Once you have this done. Start bolting everything back on in reverse.
Do the lights....
We test fitted the grille to see if all the holes lined up correctly.
.....and it did.
RE-install the horn, and the hood latch, you'll have to adjust the hood latch before you finish to make sure that its not sitting too hig and to make sure its level and stuff. Once that is done, reinstall the Bumper support, we used the 96-98 but if you want you can get one off a 99-00 it doesnt really matter. The 96-98 bolted up right on the driver side, but the passenger side was of by a few mm's so we just drilled to make the hole bigger.
...dont let your friends mess with paint thinner.
after adjusting the hood latch, and the fenders, we put the front bumper back on and connected the headlights/turn signals.
Voila, you can now pat yourself on the back. cause you've completed a conversion that most people wont even notice/care about.
If you all are thinking OMFG you didnt need to cut off the rad. support then think again, when we put it back together it fit like a glove, no movement or anything and tehn later we went back and arc. welded it just to be on the safe side...yea we're perfectionists like that.
Here are some painted pics.
Yes those are JDM CTR Fenders, legit and 300.00 a pair
No offense to the guy who posted it but I did one this summer and its a lot more detailed.
http://www.civicland.com/forum...=4759
This is a write up of how to install a 99-00 front end on the frame of your 96-98 civic. It works for hatches, coupes and sedans.
There are 2 ways to go about doing this. 1. You can ghetto rig it and use the 96-98 radiator support, or 2. you can do it the hard way and cut the radiator support off, We tried to use the 96-98 support at first, but the bumper had major fitment issues and we just wanted to make sure to do this right.
Tools you will need:
3/8' Ratchet
medium extension
10, 12, and 14mm sockets
10 mm open ended wrench
Phillips and flat head screwdriver
hammer and chisel
Sawzall with metal blade
4" Circular grinder with 2-3 heavy duty metal grinding wheels.
mechanix gloves
face mask(to cover your mouth)
Protective eyewear.
long sleeved shirt
pants
2 trusted buddies to help you out
a weekend where you dont need your car.
Parts you will need:
99-00 OEM hood
99-00 OEM or JDM fenders (we used the JDM Civic Type R fenders)
99-00 OEM Radiator support
99-00 OEM Front bumper (i suggest finding one that was on a civic Si, because then you get the nice looking lip for free)
99-00 OEM or JDM Grille(we used the JDM because it doesnt have the emblem)
If you want you can buy a 99-00 bumper support also, but we used the 96-98 and made it work(slight fitment issue there, but its manageable)
The following is how we did this conversion, you can do it in any order and it will still work out....for the most part.
Step 1: Pop your hood, disconnect your negative battery terminal (you dont want your airbags going off on you).
Step 2: Take your front bumper off. theres 5 phillips screws on top, and one at each side (you have to peel the fender lining back a little here to get to them), and 2 10mm bolts underneath. If you havent taken your bumper off ever, you may have to jiggle it a bit to break it loose, shouldnt be too big of a deal, dont worry it'll come off. (see above photo for what its supposed to look like with the bumper off.)
Step 3. Start undoing the bolts for the headlights, there are 2 on top one on the outer sides, theres a 10mm bolt holding a small piece of metal on the bumper support, which in turn hold ths light in place, remove that piece, and throw them to the side, you wont be needing those.
Step 4. With the headlights and the front bumper off, take off the front bumper support. there are 2 obvious 12mm bolts on teh sides, but there are 2 hidden bolts (1 on each side) bolting the bumper support to the radiator support. Grab your extension, and the 12mm socket and have at it.
Step 5: With your headlights, bumper/grille, and bumper support off, take the hood and the fenders off now. The hood comes off by unbolting the 4 10mm bolts holding it on. no secret there, however watch the windshild nozzle hose...we kinda forgot about it and got shot in the face with windshield washer fluid, not our cup of tea but if you enjoy it more power to you.
Fenders are the most sneaky part to ever take off your car. I can tell you know they are evil. There are 3 10mm bolts in plain view under the hood, then there is another hidden by the door. Open your door, grab the extension again and take off the 10mm bolt there. Then go down to the bottom part of the wheel well, there is a screw there, undo that, now you have to pry your sideskirts back a little to uncover 2 more 10 mm bolts hiding under the sideskirt. We did this without jacking the car up and got frustrated and broke off a few clips here and there. Nothering that really affects the performance or anything
Ideally, to do this correctly, jack up the car, undo the screws that are holding the side skirt on the car, then carefully undo the clips with a screwdriver until the front part pops off. You dont need to take the entire skirt off, just need to pry it off a little to gain access. Once you do that its smooth sailin to take the fenders off. Take the fenders off, then move back under the car while its still jacked up and remove the 3 12mm bolts that are holding the radiator and the A/C condenser bolted to the radiator support.
Step 6: Heres where the metal work comes in. We didnt realize this until we were neck deep in the donkey doo, but the radiator support is welded onto the frame of the car....Really bolt on huh? There are 2 spot welds on each corner of the top of the radiator support (up where the lights are). <FONT SIZE="7"><FONT COLOR="red">CAREFULLY</FONT></FONT> Take your hammer and chisel and pound out the welds. I say carefully because the metal there is all aluminum and it bends VERY easily. if you mangle it you wont be able to get the new rad support on there.
So repeat on both sides until you disconnect the welds that are holding the top part onto the frame of the car. It'll look like this when you are done.
Step 7: Heres where the fun starts.
Take your sawzall, and your metal cutting blade, and make 2 incisions, one at the top of where each light was...kinda hard to explain, but we picked a center point in between the frame of the car and the corner of the light. Cut it where you wish, so long as its in between the frame of the car and where the radiator support bends...look carefully at the pic to see where we cut it.
Once you make those 2 cuts, you are done with the sawzall for now, got out your trusty Grinder and be prepared to see some metal fly. <FONT SIZE="7">WARNING!! IF YOU CANT STAND A LITTLE PAIN AND/OR ARE AFRAID OF SPARKS, GET SOMEONE ELSE TO DO THE REST OF THIS FOR YOU</FONT> I reccomend that you stop now, go put on Mechanix gloves, long sleeved shirt, face mask, protective goggles, long pants, and closed toed shoes the rest of the time.
Step 8: Cut the middle support beam with the grinder so that you can get that metal tube thats running across the front of the car out of the way. once you have cut through that. unbolt the hors, and the hood latch fromt he radiator support and try to place them as far under the car as possible.
Step 9. This is important. You have to look where you are cutting when you do this. Our car was a DX so there was no cruise control/abs any of that stuff under the hood which gave us an advantage. There are 6-10 spot welds holding the radiator support to the 2 frame beams of the car. To get to those, you have to start cutting. Now, I suggest MARKING OFF EXATCLY where to cut...well if not exactly as accuratley as you can to the line you are supposed to cut. Now, you want to cut towards the middle part of the radiator support on both sides. We just went 2" to the inside of the frame and made a cut straight up and down making sure to keep the cutting wheel away from any and all wires that were behind the radiator support. Once you cut all the way through both sides, and you have the middle piece cut enough so that you can slide that tube through, you can take the piece of the radiator support off, throw it across the yard and stop it beyond recognition.....well maybe not but thats what we did and it made us feel better. Your car should look like this now.
Note where we cut the radiator support, use your judgement when cutting, obviously if there are wires and stuff back there. MOVE THEM before you cut, because remember that metal gets VERY hot when cutting it, so hot that wires WILL melt if left too close to it.
Step 10. Put the grinder down. grab something to eat, let the metal cool back down. When you come back to it, grab your hammer and chisel and start pounding out the welds. Start with the top center weld and work your way around. by the time you get tot he middle weld, the chisel will be usless because that is triple stamped steel there, and theres no chance of you chiseling it all off.
Step 11: grinding the metal away...This part gets a little tricky, you have to pay close attention to what you are doing here. You do not want to mess with the frame of the car, so you have to be very careful when cutting here. to make things easier we cut down the middle first , then cut around the sides of the stamped steel. Once you have the middle section cut out (theres is an empty space behind it) then grind the edges to that all the steel is gone and the frame is exposed.
This is what it looks like when you are done grinding.
Now you are ready to bolt up your 99-00 front end.
First install your fenders, adjust them so that the door doesnt catch them when you open/close the door.
Once the fenders are on, do the radiator support. Get that piece on the car, and line it up with the stock frame holes. (see thats why its so important NOT to mangle up any metal while doing this.)
Put the radiator and the AC/Condernser in thier proper holes first then swing the rad. support forward and line it up with the holes.
Bolt the 3 bolts back up underneath, then bolt the top bolts in place.
Once you have this done. Start bolting everything back on in reverse.
Do the lights....
We test fitted the grille to see if all the holes lined up correctly.
.....and it did.
RE-install the horn, and the hood latch, you'll have to adjust the hood latch before you finish to make sure that its not sitting too hig and to make sure its level and stuff. Once that is done, reinstall the Bumper support, we used the 96-98 but if you want you can get one off a 99-00 it doesnt really matter. The 96-98 bolted up right on the driver side, but the passenger side was of by a few mm's so we just drilled to make the hole bigger.
...dont let your friends mess with paint thinner.
after adjusting the hood latch, and the fenders, we put the front bumper back on and connected the headlights/turn signals.
Voila, you can now pat yourself on the back. cause you've completed a conversion that most people wont even notice/care about.
If you all are thinking OMFG you didnt need to cut off the rad. support then think again, when we put it back together it fit like a glove, no movement or anything and tehn later we went back and arc. welded it just to be on the safe side...yea we're perfectionists like that.
Here are some painted pics.
Yes those are JDM CTR Fenders, legit and 300.00 a pair
01-23-2005, 09:51 AM
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Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (DxBurnoutKing)
Why did you change out the whole upper part of the core support. I actually have a 99 si and it was wrecked and when i repaired it i put a rad support out of a 98 and everything bolted right up.
01-23-2005, 10:20 AM
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Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (b16matt)
Nice work...but I don't think you had to cut the front off like that...On my 96 Civic hb, everything from a 99-00 civic front bolted right up. Had no problems. I only had to shave a little off from the front bumper so i can bolt up. You can't see the part that you shave off because its in the inside of the bumper...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=473785
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=473785
01-23-2005, 10:52 AM
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Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (DxBurnoutKing)
Yes those are JDM CTR Fenders, legit and 300.00 a pair
and you paid $300.00 for some sidemarkers, and some banged the **** up fenders.
and you paid $300.00 for some sidemarkers, and some banged the **** up fenders.
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01-23-2005, 11:06 AM
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Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (1998 hatch dx)
so umm, you bought a hood, bumper, fenders, lights, to make your car look like it was 1 year older... and you have a 17 second car.. ummm.. isn't this very very ricey..
01-23-2005, 11:45 AM
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Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (igone916)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by igone916 »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> I only had to shave a little off from the front bumper so i can bolt up. </TD></TR></TABLE>
we didnt wanna ghetto rig it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so umm, you bought a hood, bumper, fenders, lights, to make your car look like it was 1 year older... and you have a 17 second car.. ummm.. isn't this very very ricey.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not my car, I was the one behond the camera...when i wasnt unbolting ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1998 hatch dx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arn't the core supports suppose to be welded as well as bolted back in????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the end of the thread, we welded it back together after it got painted.
we didnt wanna ghetto rig it.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so umm, you bought a hood, bumper, fenders, lights, to make your car look like it was 1 year older... and you have a 17 second car.. ummm.. isn't this very very ricey.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Not my car, I was the one behond the camera...when i wasnt unbolting ****.
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by 1998 hatch dx »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">arn't the core supports suppose to be welded as well as bolted back in????</TD></TR></TABLE>
Read the end of the thread, we welded it back together after it got painted.
01-23-2005, 01:02 PM
#13
Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (DxBurnoutKing)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by DxBurnoutKing »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">
we didnt wanna ghetto rig it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wouldn't say mine was ghetto rigged. let's just say it's more efficient time-wise.
plus it looks almst exactly the same and i'm still using my front bumper support from my 96-98.
but i do commend you for going the extra mile. i think you should have invested in a lip before painting it, unless you were planning on going with a cf lip, of course. good job on the write-up; however, i doubt most people are going to do their conversions as u did. you really only need to trim a tiny part of the bumper support off the 96 or a lil plastic off the 99 bumper.
we didnt wanna ghetto rig it.
</TD></TR></TABLE>
i wouldn't say mine was ghetto rigged. let's just say it's more efficient time-wise.
plus it looks almst exactly the same and i'm still using my front bumper support from my 96-98.
but i do commend you for going the extra mile. i think you should have invested in a lip before painting it, unless you were planning on going with a cf lip, of course. good job on the write-up; however, i doubt most people are going to do their conversions as u did. you really only need to trim a tiny part of the bumper support off the 96 or a lil plastic off the 99 bumper.
01-23-2005, 01:10 PM
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Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (menkio)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by menkio »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">so umm, you bought a hood, bumper, fenders, lights, to make your car look like it was 1 year older... and you have a 17 second car.. ummm.. isn't this very very ricey.. </TD></TR></TABLE>
Some people are very harsh; remember ladies and gentlemen, the moral of this story is that if you do anything to change the appearance of your car without first upgrading to the biggest and the most powerful motor you can fit in there you have committed an act of "Ricery".
Damn give the guys some credit for doing the work.
Some people are very harsh; remember ladies and gentlemen, the moral of this story is that if you do anything to change the appearance of your car without first upgrading to the biggest and the most powerful motor you can fit in there you have committed an act of "Ricery".
Damn give the guys some credit for doing the work.
01-23-2005, 01:31 PM
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Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (llxzxll)
[QUOTE=llxzxll]
i wouldn't say mine was ghetto rigged. let's just say it's more efficient time-wise.
plus it looks almst exactly the same and i'm still using my front bumper support from my 96-98.
I second that....thats was just too much work for a 99-00 front end conversion
i wouldn't say mine was ghetto rigged. let's just say it's more efficient time-wise.
plus it looks almst exactly the same and i'm still using my front bumper support from my 96-98.
I second that....thats was just too much work for a 99-00 front end conversion
01-23-2005, 02:27 PM
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OMFG.
I'm gonna say this once and once only.
STOP TELLING ME THAT CUTTING THE RAD SUPPORT OFF WAS UNECESSARY, WE KNEW WE COULD HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT CUTTING, BUT WE WANTED PERFECT OEM STYLE FITMENT, IF YOU DO THIS ON YOUR OWN DONT CUT OFF THE RADIATOR SUPPORT IF YOU DONT WANT TO, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD STOP BITCHING ABOUT IT, THANK YOU.
If you all dont have any questions about how to do it then seriously shut up about the ******* radiator support.
I'm gonna say this once and once only.
STOP TELLING ME THAT CUTTING THE RAD SUPPORT OFF WAS UNECESSARY, WE KNEW WE COULD HAVE DONE IT WITHOUT CUTTING, BUT WE WANTED PERFECT OEM STYLE FITMENT, IF YOU DO THIS ON YOUR OWN DONT CUT OFF THE RADIATOR SUPPORT IF YOU DONT WANT TO, FOR THE LOVE OF GOD STOP BITCHING ABOUT IT, THANK YOU.
If you all dont have any questions about how to do it then seriously shut up about the ******* radiator support.
01-23-2005, 03:04 PM
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Re: (xoutlawz00x)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by xoutlawz00x »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote"> CUTTING THE RAD SUPPORT OFF WAS UNECESSARY i just did a 96 to 00 conversion and everthing fitted perfect..</TD></TR></TABLE>
YAY GOOD FOR YOU, DO A WRITE UP ABOUT IT AND THEN YOU CAN.. oh wait.
YAY GOOD FOR YOU, DO A WRITE UP ABOUT IT AND THEN YOU CAN.. oh wait.
Too much work though 
01-23-2005, 03:52 PM
#21
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Re: (DxBurnoutKing)
Ehh I too have to say that you went through a lot of trouble that you didn't have to. You can get OEM fitment on a 96-98 rad support using a 99 front end. All you gotta do is cut the a small section out of the front bumper near the lights and adjust the hood latch.
Honestly could you tell me if this hatch was "ghetto rigged"? It is. A 97 stock radiator support. Sorry man u just went through a buncha work for nothin.
Honestly could you tell me if this hatch was "ghetto rigged"? It is. A 97 stock radiator support. Sorry man u just went through a buncha work for nothin.
01-23-2005, 03:56 PM
#22
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Re: (Special-Ed)
Here is a write up.
1.) Remove stock hood, fenders, bumper and headlights. oh yea n grille.
2.) Put on the stock headlights, fenders.
3.) On the inner part of the front bumper there are 2 tabs (dont know how else to explain it, could try to get pics). Cut the tabs so when you put the bumper on it fits flush.
I circled the part that you have to cut in red. It's the little tabs on the bumper you can't really see in this angle of the picture. But if you dont cut it, then it rubs against the radiator support but u get better fitment if you cut it. You don't really have to though cuz u can just overlap the rad support with the tab.
4.) Put the hood on and close it, if it sits a little higher where the hood meets the grille, just get a 10mm wrench and loosen the hood latch and adjust it until it closes flush w/ the other body panels.
5.) laugh at burnoutking
1.) Remove stock hood, fenders, bumper and headlights. oh yea n grille.
2.) Put on the stock headlights, fenders.
3.) On the inner part of the front bumper there are 2 tabs (dont know how else to explain it, could try to get pics). Cut the tabs so when you put the bumper on it fits flush.
I circled the part that you have to cut in red. It's the little tabs on the bumper you can't really see in this angle of the picture. But if you dont cut it, then it rubs against the radiator support but u get better fitment if you cut it. You don't really have to though cuz u can just overlap the rad support with the tab.
4.) Put the hood on and close it, if it sits a little higher where the hood meets the grille, just get a 10mm wrench and loosen the hood latch and adjust it until it closes flush w/ the other body panels.
5.) laugh at burnoutking
01-23-2005, 04:36 PM
#23
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Re: 96-98 to 99-00 Civic front end conversion. (B30M87A)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by B30M87A »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Approx how much was the price for eveyrthing you needed?</TD></TR></TABLE>
We got the entire front end, (fenders, rad support, bumper, grille) for 250.00 and a hood for 100.00 so 350.00 plus 300.00 my friend paid for a temporary maaco paintjob.
We got the entire front end, (fenders, rad support, bumper, grille) for 250.00 and a hood for 100.00 so 350.00 plus 300.00 my friend paid for a temporary maaco paintjob.
01-23-2005, 04:38 PM
#24
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Re: (Special-Ed)
<TABLE WIDTH="90%" CELLSPACING=0 CELLPADDING=0 ALIGN=CENTER><TR><TD>Quote, originally posted by Special-Ed »</TD></TR><TR><TD CLASS="quote">Here is a write up.
1.) Remove stock hood, fenders, bumper and headlights. oh yea n grille.
2.) Put on the stock headlights, fenders.
3.) On the inner part of the front bumper there are 2 tabs (dont know how else to explain it, could try to get pics). Cut the tabs so when you put the bumper on it fits flush.
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~roboedar/bumperz.gif[img]
I circled the part that you have to cut in red. It's the little tabs on the bumper you can't really see in this angle of the picture. But if you dont cut it, then it rubs against the radiator support but u get better fitment if you cut it. You don't really have to though cuz u can just overlap the rad support with the tab.
4.) Put the hood on and close it, if it sits a little higher where the hood meets the grille, just get a 10mm wrench and loosen the hood latch and adjust it until it closes flush w/ the other body panels.
5.) laugh at burnoutking</TD></TR></TABLE>
I must not be speaking english.
My friend is a perfectionist and when he decided that he wanted a 2000 front end, he wanted EVERYTHING to be 2000. so YOU choose to use a 96-98 rad support and we didnt, either way wasnt too hard and hey look pretty sparks. It was actually kinda fun soooo drop it already.
1.) Remove stock hood, fenders, bumper and headlights. oh yea n grille.
2.) Put on the stock headlights, fenders.
3.) On the inner part of the front bumper there are 2 tabs (dont know how else to explain it, could try to get pics). Cut the tabs so when you put the bumper on it fits flush.
[img]http://home.comcast.net/~roboedar/bumperz.gif[img]
I circled the part that you have to cut in red. It's the little tabs on the bumper you can't really see in this angle of the picture. But if you dont cut it, then it rubs against the radiator support but u get better fitment if you cut it. You don't really have to though cuz u can just overlap the rad support with the tab.
4.) Put the hood on and close it, if it sits a little higher where the hood meets the grille, just get a 10mm wrench and loosen the hood latch and adjust it until it closes flush w/ the other body panels.
5.) laugh at burnoutking</TD></TR></TABLE>
I must not be speaking english.
My friend is a perfectionist and when he decided that he wanted a 2000 front end, he wanted EVERYTHING to be 2000. so YOU choose to use a 96-98 rad support and we didnt, either way wasnt too hard and hey look pretty sparks. It was actually kinda fun soooo drop it already.
