KnightmareCS

Newbie here,

Just got a 95 VX a couple of days ago. I've read through the codes and found to be 10 to be the IAC and 48 to be LAF sensor. I figured I could fix the IAC code by cleaning it with intake cleaner. I pulled it off and sprayed/drowned the crap out of it with the cleaner then let it dry for a while.

Before doing this, the light would be constantly on. After cleaning it and also having the ECU fuse out (while cleaning), the light comes on after like 10 minutes of driving, maybe more/maybe less. When the light comes on, the idle bounces from 800-1300rpm.

What is my next step? The 5-wire O2 looks pretty new as well as a couple of other sensors around the intake. Not sure if they are, but the wires/plastic have ZERO grime on them.

I've gotten 37.7mpg highway with 25psi in 3 tires and 13psi in the 4th. All that is inflated to 35psi (gonna go to 42) and I've changed the air filter.

Thanks in advance.

KnightmareCS

TTT

-Edit-

Just reread the code list. Code 10 is for IAT. Damn I got mixed up. I will check the IAT next. I am sure it is most likely good.
What do you guys suggest for the two codes?

Former User

Code 10 - what's the resistance of the IAT sensor?

Code 48 - do the electrical tests in the service manual for the LAF (O2) sensor.

KnightmareCS

Don't have the service manual.

When do I measure the resistance? Cold or hot? Also, do I probe inline or with the pigtail disconnected and probe the sensor straight?

KnightmareCS

This is the IAT correct?

KnightmareCS

Back up for questions on 48. I will replace the IAT if anything to try and fix 10. Will get resistance reading later today. Also looking for answer on when to check it.

hyperblu

IAT is either on the manifold or somewhere on the intake... that looks like my iat on my ctr intake

KnightmareCS

I found it on the car, inbetween 3rd and 4th runner I think. Just went out during lunch and looked. I'll get some readings later at home.

Former User

TA sensor = IAT sensor

Former User

KnightmareCS

Thanks for the guides! I will be using them this weekend.

Haven't got a reading yet with all the bad weather.
Took a look to see how I would remove the IAT and bad news. The screws are rusted badly, causing the screwdriver to rip up the head. Worse case, I will dremel the sensor up and vice grip the screws out. I have a new one from Honda with screws on order at the dealer. I'll see if I can get a reading with old and new.

Code 48 is still showing as a stored code. Not sure if what I did before was right. I was removing the 20A ECU fuse after checking codes instead of the 7.5A Back up. Just popped out the 7.5A earlier, so I'll see what happens on the drive tomorrow.

KnightmareCS

I haven't gotten code 10 since pulling the BACKUP fuse, so I haven't touched the IAT. I have the part sitting in my glove box if the need arises. The idle hasn't been bouncing like it did before and is now more controlled. Seems like that only needed an ECU reseting.

As for code 48, I am still getting it on occasions. I restart the car in motion and it can go away for the rest of the drive. Frustrating, but that's all I can do now.
I'm getting upper 30s/lower 40s MPG driving 65-70mph highway for 30miles. I'd like to increase this. The connector+wire for the LAF look practically new. I tried to wrench off the LAF just to see how it looks, but that thing's on there tight. I don't know how to tell if it's new or old because of how hard it is to get off.


Also worth a mention: does it make sense that I have a blue service connector instead of a grey one? It's a 95 so it should be grey right? There is some sort of electrical tape wrapped around the wires, but it's neatly done. Might have wrong ECU? Wouldn't explain why my SIL works.

What do you guys think?


_
Edit:
Just looked. ECU is P07-A01 with blue service connector with one black and one brown wire wrapped in green shrink tubing.
Seems legit.


If someone finds this in a search, here is a similar thread:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/showth...2925409&page=2

KnightmareCS

Also, would having the speedo being off affect lean burn? It's weird that I could be rolling at say 5-9mph and have the speedo read nothing, but the odometer slowly rolling up. Then when I speed upto say 13+, the speedo would jump to 20mph. Doing 65+ would show 55 going up slowly. Is the odo mechanically linked to the tranny or are they both VSS? If they're both VSS, I don't see how the odo would move while the speedo reads dead 0.
Would this bad speedo mean that the ECU is getting wrong speed input so it is reading wrong load values at certain rpms causing code 48? Is lean burn even based partially on speed or is it straight rpm+other non speed related stuff?
Would there be a fix to my speedo or am I SOL?

Former User

Consider replacing the speedo or cluster.