s13hero

So my temp gauge has been stuck on hot, not over heating but pretty high. It turns off with the car bu then goes back up so I thought maybe water pump/thermostat since my a/c was warm too, and I just recharged it recently. Anyway I was having the timing belt done soon, so I had it done w/ the timing belt, but the gauge is still stuck on high. The shop thought it was the temperature sender for the gauge so I looked it up, and I can't find the right sensor, according to the FSM, it a yellow green wire, but none of the three sensors I found have a yellow green, could mine be a diff. color or am I just missing something? Also, as far as the a/c is concerned, it shouldn't blow warm if its just the temp. switch/sender because that just sends the temp. to the gauge right?

Former User

The sending unit is located below the distributor. It does have a YEL/GRN wire.

s13hero

Back from the dead, so my gauge is fine, but neither fan turns on, I checked the wiring, and I'm not getting power through the cooling fan wire, but if I give it 12 volts it turns, and I checked continuity. So I was thinking its the cooling fan switch, but where is this?

Former User

Have you checked for blown fuses?

s13hero

Yeah, all fuses are good, and checked the relay.

Former User

Just to clarify. You checked dash fuse #13 (7.5A) and hood fuses #33 (15A) and #35 (20A), right?

How did you test the radiator and condenser fan relays?

If you wire battery power directly to each fan, do they run?

s13hero

Thermoswitch was bad, jumped the switch fan kicked on, replaced thermoswitch. Both fans turn on, but car still overheats, and a/c doesn't blow cold.

Former User

Are you losing coolant? Have you replaced the thermostat and bled the cooling system?

shawn_crx

bleed the system then check for leaks...
on your AC does your clutch engage?

s13hero

Not losing any coolant, I had the thermostat and water pump changed 2 weeks ago with the timing belt, but maybe the shop screwed up. I'll check the A/C I recharged it recently, but the engine is still hot.

Former User

It's important that you bleed the cooling system. Some trapped air may be blocking proper coolant flow. Do you know how to do this procedure?

s13hero

No I haven't done it, but I have the page from the FSM, I'll try this.

Former User

It helps to park the car on an inclined driveway with the front higher than the back for this procedure. You could also put the front end on stands. Don't forget to use the bleeder bolt and to turn the heater lever to max heat.

s13hero

Okay, thanks, do you know where can I take the old coolant?

Former User

There's no need to drain the coolant. Just do the bleed portion of the procedure:

1) Park the car on an inclined driveway with the front end higher than the rear.

2) Push the dash heater lever/**** to MAX heat.

3) Follow the directions in the diagram below (hint: the bleed bolt is located where the upper radiator hose connects to the engine):

s13hero

Thanks, just checked it coolant flows out in a steady stream, no bubbles, so I assume no air?

Former User

That's only the bleed bolt step, right? Now top off with coolant and let the engine idle until the fan comes on twice.

s13hero

I did initially, but the car is overheating so the fan never turned off, so I just let it run for a while, it didn't run in two distinct stages, so I went back out and tried it again, but now all the sudden the radiator fan won't turn on despite the car overheating, so I'm going back out to check my fuses. You're supposed to still keep the heat on right?

Former User

I forgot that you jumped the fan switch connector. Did the wire come loose?

s13hero

I only jumped it to test the fan switch, once the fan came on I knew the thermoswitch was bad so I changed it, and didn't have to use the jumper, so the fan was coming on on its own til like 10 minutes ago.

Former User

Go ahead and jump the connector again to see if the fan will run continuously. If so, I think you have air trapped around the thermostat housing. This may be preventing the switch from getting hot. Continue with the bleed procedure with the connector jumped. You need to try and get all the air out. Do you have the front end raised? Is the heater set to MAX?

s13hero

Ok, did everything, bled with it jumped got some air out, with front end raised. Car still does not cool. Oddly, A/C fan worked yesterday despite A/C still being warm, but today A/C fan won't spin at all. Radiator fan still wont' spin w/o being jumped, I'm beginning to wonder if the shop gave me a faulty switch?

s13hero

The A/C Fan relay seems to be bad, as well as the fan switch despite just getting a new one, I may also have a leak in my A/C. Getting a new fan switch and relay monday.

s13hero

Got a new relay today, thought it was bad because I jumped the a/c fan relay just for a second, and it worked, and I followed the FSM flow chart, and it said the check continuity on the blu/red wire on the 2 pin connector on the condenser fan and there was continuity so it said replace the relay, and as stated above I did, but still nothing.

s13hero

Nothing new today, but noticed green a/c light doesn't come on, does this mean anything or than a possible broken bulb? all other lights on climate control are fine