PrettyMuchBoned

This thread is for my coupe. Its a 95 EJ2, DX 5MT. Basically, I want from this car what I expect from any car I'm building. A street-able car that I can have fun driving, and be competitive on a track. My budget is not unlimited, I'm hoping to have the car thoroughly upgraded for around 5,000$.

this thread will, for the time being, cover: suspension, brakes, wheels/tires that sorta stuff. I want it to turn and stop better than it does now. I drove it down a windy road on the gas in 2nd, and its all over the ******* place. Under steers into the turn, and I got the *** to slide out a few times. IV never driven a car this light, but that's part of the reason I wanted an EJ2. Its a pretty lightweight car, about 2250 if I'm not mistaken.

1: get rid of these 5.5 wheels and cheapest-available-tires. I think this is a big part of the problem. I want 15-16 and 8 or at least 7.5s. I dont have any idea what tires ill get but obviously I need to get some wheels first. I'll probably end up buying from tire rack, but I'm also interested in factory-equipped wheels that I could use too.

2: knuckles, rotors and pads.

I'm a bit confused on what knuckles I need to use to get some bigger brakes on my car. Atm its got stock, red-painted brakes. They're not big enough.

I was told I can use ITR rotors w/ mini cooper rotors, if I get Integra/EX knuckles. Does this seem like my best option? Would my rear rotors still be single disk vs vented? With this setup, do I need to be cautious with my wheels so it all fits?

is there any other good options for brakes?

3: suspension
anyone have experience reinforcing their subframe? I was thinking about adding some 3/8th triangles in a few places, and maybe one of those braces on the market. I read about people using Integra A arms, is there any advantage to this? They're clearly bigger and stouter, but will I even notice any handling improvements?

does anyone have any other price effective upgrades? I know, koni yellows. Besides that though.

later I will decide which engine to swap, if I'm gonna add power mirrors or not, which spoiler to use, what color flake ill add to nighthawk black, etc. First I am planning suspension though.

eghatch9295

iTrader: (1)

keep the braking simple. 92-95 ex, 94-01 integra (all) front spindle/hub/rotor/caliper, and 94-01 integra, 92-00 civic rear disc conversion (trailing arms, hub, caliper, rotor) ,non abs integra master cylinder and a 40/40 brake prop valve will give you more than you need for brakes with a d series.

reinforcing your subframe will do very little to nothing. you can purchase tie bars/traction bars to help stiffen the chassis. upgrading your bushings to urethane (ie energy brand) is helpful in your overall suspension feel as well.

wheels- any oem 15" 94-01 integra wheels (exc itr) fit your car. 99-00 si, early fit wheels, tons more.

do your homework, sounds like youve got a lot to learn

PrettyMuchBoned

lol I couldn't even figure out the brakes beyond what you told me. I kept searching for bigger brakes using different words and I kept coming up with nothing, I said **** it and decided to make s thread.

I'm planning on getting rid of the d series after the summer, but I wanna do some factory correct not-heavily-modified engine b/s rules racing first. Plus I still cant find a b16 or GSR

grumblemarc

iTrader: (4)

You didn't search hard enough. In the Suspension and Braking forum there's a long-running thread dedicated to brakes and many more asking this tired question about subframe reinforcing.

All your questions have been answered there plenty of times. And it looks you like you were advised or found some info and don't understand what you read so I see more of the same in your future.

Frankly there's way too many combos of hardware to know what qualifies as "best" for you.

B serious

iTrader: (1)

94-01 integra knuckles and brakes work great for track use on a hatchbox. Just add high temp fluid and track pads. They are also versatile. If you want to upgrayedd later, you can use mini cooper rotors and ITR calipers for the front. EP3 rotors and ITR calipers for the rear.

Any wheel that's 7.5" or 8" wide will require like a +38ish or less offset to prevent hitting the trailing arm. So...get your fender roller out and buy camber kits to get a little more negative than natural. Use 225/45/15...atleast up front.

You NEED subframe reinforcement if you're using any sway bar over about 15mm diameter. Or you will tear the subframe.

Suspension answers are going to be all over the place depending on preference. I always use higher rates for the rear compared to the front.

You really just need tires and brakes and a track day to get a baseline for the car. THEN add mods. Don't mod it first and go to a track after.

If you're looking for a B series swap, try jdmenginescorp.com. Guys have unbeatable pricing. I've bought a bunch of motors and transmissions from them. Always super clean. Close to HMO clean. I've bought and installed a few HMO swaps too.

PrettyMuchBoned

this seems like a good idea

crazyhouse2011

DX weight is around 2500 lb. 2700 with a male driver. Still pretty light weight. The stock first gen miata i am driving now is around 2200 lb, just for comparison

PrettyMuchBoned

I'm gonna go to a scrap yard in a week to check for myself, just to kno, yakno?

I'm just not used to it. My accord is nearly 4,000. Its a big difference. I could feel the difference between the EX auto sedan and the accord, and between the EH9 and EJ2

B serious

iTrader: (1)

What kind of accord weighs almost 4k LBS? Is it made out of lead or uranium?

PrettyMuchBoned

The kind with 8 airbags, several cats, 4 doors, a v6 and auto