tim73

I tried poking around but didn't find the answer to some questions. So I know the a3, is obd1, a2 is obd2. I'm pretty sure I need the bottom end of my a3 replaced. The head is in good shape. What would be the cheapest route? Suggestions? Not looking to boost or anything, just wanna get it on the road. Thanks!

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

The answer would ultimately depend on your local laws regarding engine swaps and smog (if applicable). I believe the easiest option is to find the cheapest B16A(X) block that is in good working order and swap it one for one. This is assuming everything else is in good shape as well.

NotARaCist

iTrader: (1)

<p>What makes you believe your bottom end needs to be replaced? &nbsp;Exactly what has failed? &nbsp;Your repair options depend pretty heavily on that.</p>

tim73

The previous owner told me it was a dohc vtec. Turned out to be d16z6 sohc vtec. She says it locked up, but wasn't out of oil. I'll open it up when I get a chance. Never heard of a Honda locking up, that wasn't out of oil. Anyway...for $350, it's just a project car. Thanks!

tim73

I tried a few things, took off the valve cover to check the valvetrain and timing belt. They look good. The previous owner said the engine was locked, but I went to turn it...and it will turn about 180 degrees either way...but then comes to a sudden stop, like it is hitting something. Valvetrain appears to be moving normal. So, I guess the next step is looking at the bottom end, but could it be the flywheel?...perhaps its broken...or a bolt came out? I was told both the clutch and flywheel were new a few months ago. Anyway...open to suggestions. Thanks!

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

How familiar are you with wrenching on engines?

tim73

Pretty familier..mostly accords. But have tinkered with civics a bit. Just hoping...that this might have happened to somebody else. Always nicer, than reinventing the wheel

24TEN

iTrader: (2)

Mechanically speaking it's no different from the older Accord engines that used the F series engines. If anything it's easier because of space and the absence of balance shafts. Anyways, I might suggest removing the camshaft and then attempting to see if the crank will spin a full 360 degrees. I'd only recommend you do this if you're familiar with removal/installation of the timing belt as you may make things worse if you don't know what you're doing.

Another option (and probably should be attempted first) is to do a compression and/or leak down test BUT since you can't rotate the crank freely these tests aren't 100% possible at the moment.

Mainly I'm thinking you have a stuck/bent valve. With no camshaft installed all valves should be closed. If one is bent enough it will stick out and contact the piston resulting in what you're experiencing. The other extreme is you have a bent rod, again if it's bent enough it MAY be possible to contact the cylinder wall at some point and prevent rotation.

As for the clutch/flywheel suggestion, things can go wrong there as well but would be pretty extreme to have it actually prevent full rotation. The flywheel bolts are sandwiched between the clutch and flywheel, there's not really any room for it to dislodge and get kicked around. On the other hand, it's possible for the pressure plate bolts to back off completely (they're only around 20ft/lbs to spec) and that could potentially get kicked around but again it would pretty extreme for it to get lodged in a way to prevent rotation. You can do a partial inspection if you remove the plate covering the flywheel. There should be two 10mm nuts that hold the plate to the oil pan so don't forget to remove those.

purgat0ry

iTrader: (3)

You really need to pop the VC and get a good look at everything under there... make sure you have all of the valves, one isn't sticking lower, etc.
Also, get to looking around the FAQ.

JRCivic1

What type of intake does it have on it ??? Stock air box, short ram, or cold air style where the filter is down close to the ground ??? It sounds like you have a bent rod... likely from a hydro-lock type condition. A bent valve is also a distinct possibility... you can remove the spark plugs and shine a light in the tubes to see if there is any damage to the piston tops. Spin the engine until you find a view that is the most comfortable for you... and that will either cover the end two or the middle two. Then spin the engine 180 to get the other pair to the same/similar spot.

tim73

Hmm...good idea about checking in spark plug holes. I took off the valve cover...and i didnt see any stuck valves...they all looked like they were moving...even if justa little bit. I had an F22a6, where the previous owner had not properly tightened down the locknut on a valve...and it bent...then broke off and finally wrecked the entire cylinder and combustion chamber. But the engine would turn over no problem. Anyway...ill poke around a little bit more. Stock air intake btw. Thanks for the tips.

tim73

So, I too yalls advise. Looked in spark plug holes. #2 cylinder isn't moving. So looks like the connecting rod/pin or something is broke. No idea what the cylinder wall looks like. I'll be looking for a good b16 block(they're all the same?). Or does year matter? I know on the accords obd1 can use any block, but obd2 can only use obd2. Thanks in advance!

White_EG1

You can slap any obd block on any obd head as long as it's the same engine code.

But thought you actually had a d16z6? Which are all obd1.

tim73

Sorry yeah, d16z6. New to civics.

tim73

Was able to pick up a complete d16z6, will see about installing it in the next week or so. Thanks!