When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
This seems to be a problem. Were the wires at these two pins Yel/Blk?
What voltage do you read at main relay connector pin 3 (Yel/Blk wire)?
So I found the yel/blk wires and both read 12v. The multimeter holds that number for about 1 second and then goes back to 0. Could be I can't hold the prongs steady enough as they are almost too big to fit in the holes
they are opposite to where I thought they would be. I will do them all again. I was counting from the holes in the plugs, but looks like I need to think of it like a mirror image of the ecu.
A23
A25
A26 are all 1
B2 starts in the range of 16 and then slowly settles to 6.9. if I hold it there, it continues counting down very slowly, until my hand cramps and I can't hold it anymore.
A26 (Blk/Red) = 1 (no continuity to body ground) B2 (Brn/Blk) = 6.9 - 16 Ohms (continuity to body ground) A23 (Blk) = 1 (no continuity to body ground) A24 (Blk) = 1 (no continuity to body ground)
A25 (Yel/Blk) = battery voltage B1 (Yel/Blk) = battery voltage Pin 3 main relay (Yel/Blk) = battery voltage
Last edited by muellersfan; 07-01-2019 at 05:43 AM.
A26 (Blk/Red) = 1 (no continuity to body ground) B2 (Brn/Blk) = 6.9 - 16 Ohms (continuity to body ground) A23 (Blk) = 1 (no continuity to body ground) A24 (Blk) = 1 (no continuity to body ground)
A25 (Yel/Blk) = battery voltage B1 (Yel/Blk) = battery voltage Pin 3 main relay (Yel/Blk) = battery voltage
I ran through them all again this morning using your color guidelines. These are my findings:
Continuity at 200 Ohms
A23 (Blk)1.2
A24 (blk) 1.2
A26 (blk/red) 1.2
B2 (brn/blk) 1.2
I ran through them all again this morning using your color guidelines. These are my findings:
Continuity at 200 Ohms
A23 (Blk)1.2
A24 (blk) 1.2
A26 (blk/red) 1.2
B2 (brn/blk) 1.2
Battery Voltage = 12.2
Key On Voltage test
B1 (yel/blk) 12.1
A25 (yel/blk) 12.1
Main relay Pin 3 Yel/Blk) 12.1
Based on your excellent test results, my diagnosis is a bad ECU (99%).
A bad capacitor generally causes this problem, so if you can desolder and solder, replacing all of the electrolytic capacitors on the ECU PCB would be an inexpensive fix.
Based on your excellent test results, my diagnosis is a bad ECU (99%).
A bad capacitor generally causes this problem, so if you can desolder and solder, replacing all of the electrolytic capacitors on the ECU PCB would be an inexpensive fix.
Wow! thanks.
I will talk to my hubby about it. Hopefully that is something that he can figure out how to do. The man can build a watch (with or without someone asking him the time.) Lets see if he can do this.
You have been a great help. Again, thank you so much for hanging in there with us.
Based on your excellent test results, my diagnosis is a bad ECU (99%).
A bad capacitor generally causes this problem, so if you can desolder and solder, replacing all of the electrolytic capacitors on the ECU PCB would be an inexpensive fix.
I took the covers off the ecu and took a pic of one of the capacitors (and its location on the board) that looks like it might be a problem. (attached photos). If you know if it is the capacitor that would be giving me the problem, let me know. If you don't know, if is okay, you have been so helpful. I will replace this capacitor either way.
Yes that capacitor has leaked. After removing the bad capacitor, it's important to clean up all the leaked fluid and repair any circuit traces and / or vias that have corroded through.
Yes that capacitor has leaked. After removing the bad capacitor, it's important to clean up all the leaked fluid and repair any circuit traces and / or vias that have corroded through.
Thanks for your response. I will make sure to look up the proper way to do that before I get started replacing the capacitor.
Also even without an ECU plugged in (but everything else plugged in), the fuel pump should run when you turn the key to the starting position. Disconnect the starter first so you can hear the pump.
@muellersfan WOOOOOHOOOOOO!!!!!!
I just wanted to let you know that I received my new (to me) ecu from ebay, and guess what? That test light came ON!!!!
So happy with your help and guidance. I danced a jig when that test light came on...and thought of you!! ECU was $160 on ebay. I did try my hand at soldering, but apparently...I don't math or solder.
@muellersfan WOOOOOHOOOOOO!!!!!!
I just wanted to let you know that I received my new (to me) ecu from ebay, and guess what? That test light came ON!!!!
So happy with your help and guidance. I danced a jig when that test light came on...and thought of you!! ECU was $160 on ebay. I did try my hand at soldering, but apparently...I don't math or solder.
@muellersfan We just turned the key and nothing...scratched our heads for about a nano second. No fuel....OH YEAH! It needs gas in it. He started RIGHT UP! 2 years sitting and he started right up. I can't thank you enough man!
Hey guys I have a 95 Civic d15 and it’s not getting fuel or fire I’ve relaced main relay and all fuses. The fuel pump cuts on when I jump 5-7 on relay but not 1-7 I’ve replaced distributor checked ground on thermostat housing I just don’t understand what I’m missing
Hey guys I have a 95 Civic d15 and it’s not getting fuel or fire I’ve relaced main relay and all fuses. The fuel pump cuts on when I jump 5-7 on relay but not 1-7 I’ve replaced distributor checked ground on thermostat housing I just don’t understand what I’m missing
Check whether hood fuse #31 (PGM-FI main relay) is blown.
It’s not blown all of the fuses are good I’ve replaced them all. I’ve checked all the grounds the main relay and fuel pump are brand new. Do you think it could be the computer possibly?
The fuel pump cuts on when I jump 5-7 on relay but not 1-7
Your test results here^ unambiguously show that the problem is due to the main relay connector NOT getting voltage from hood fuse 31.
Use a multimeter to check whether installed fuse 31 has battery voltage on both top test tabs. If it does, there is a wire open somewhere between fuse 31 and the main relay connector.
Your test results here^ unambiguously show that the problem is due to the main relay connector NOT getting voltage from hood fuse 31.
Use a multimeter to check whether installed fuse 31 has battery voltage on both top test tabs. If it does, there is a wire open somewhere between fuse 31 and the main relay connector.
ok so I tested continuity and the multimeter beeped checker fuses again so I guess it’s time to find this break lol
when I test for voltage it shows up 0.038 is that correct ?
Last edited by Bubby Nelson; 10-04-2020 at 02:50 PM.
Reason: Didn’t type correct
06-30-2019, 05:02 PM
Re: 95 Del Sol - No Fuel?
