russlan44

95 del sol si doesnt brake at all, tried bleeding brakes couple times already the pedal gets hard and stiff but when i start the car brakes are gone, front bearings went out on knuckles so i got a good deal on front integras spindles, got them on bleed the brakes same story, saw that my master cylinder is leaking common way on brake booster ull see paint coming off, changed the master cylinder bleed brakes got even worse, have to brake a mile away from stop light to stop and then smell the brake pads..

only thing i did
changed to integra front spindles with brakes
changed master cylinder
bleed brakes couples times only went to worse
and its turbo'd idk if that will make a difference

Edit: could bleeding brakes wrong is the problem did this sequence on my other hondas and work great
1 rear pass side
2 rear driver side
3 front pass side
4 front driver side

looked it up right now and its
1 rear pass side
2 front driver side
3 rear driver side
4 front pass side

im going to try to re-bleed them the right way see if theres any difference

honda_luvr_2000

Check your brake hoses (soft line from caliper/drum to hard line on car) for any bulging/swelling/damage when brakes are applied. Check for stuck pads/shoes.
I really hope you aren't pressing the brake pedal all the way to the floor when you're bleeding brakes. Many many people, as well as Honda, advise not to because that can cause damage to the seals inside the master cylinder.
Something you could try is gravity bleeding the brakes one at a time for about a half bottle of brake fluid each. Fill the reservoir, open a bleeder and just let it drip until you have added half of the brake fluid bottle, close the bleeder and repeat on the next until you've done all four. It does take a while. Then after that do the normal two person bleeding.
Also something else... Honda has actually changed the recommended order of brake bleeding. It's left front, right front, right rear, left rear. This way you get the air out of both of the master cylinder "cylinders" the quickest & also you'll be alternating between the combined lines. The left front & right rear are on one "line" of the master cylinder, and the right front & left rear are on the other. That way if one piston seal in the master cylinder fails you will still have one front brake working since the weight transfers forward when braking.

Corksil

^^ that dude about nailed it. ^^

i'd say old brake lines stretching could be a part of it.

could be a stupid question, but if the integra has bigger brakes than the del slo, wouldn't you need an integra master cylinder as well? too small of a MC would explain why bigger brakes are weak.

and smelling brakes just doesn't make sense to me. You smell brakes when your pads are hot from working hard. Which is the opposite of what would happen if your brakes were weak all the time.

djordan1

i had the same problem on my 92 eg hatch and it turned out they put the front calipers on wrong makesure all your bleeder screws are pointing up

russlan44

im going to retry bleeding brakes tomorrow, and looking for any damaged brake lines, even do my level on reservoir doesnt change stays in one spot

raidacaipo

Does the del sol have rear drum brakes as well? Maybe your only having the front 2 brakes working therefore its harder to stop if the rear drum brakes arent working. This is probably why you say you smell the brakes because its being over worked. Try using only the rear drum brakes by pulling up the e-brake when you drive. See if that stops or not.

russlan44

i have disk brakes its si model with single over cam motor

raidacaipo

Test out only the rear disc brakes then by pulling on the e-brake when your trying to stop but be careful. See if its working or not that way you will at least know whether or not your rears are working as well.

saveacivic

not to thread jack but i'm having the same issue. changed to rear disc, no brakes. changed master, now it's worse. i am going to try the rear caliper seals first since the rear disc was sitting off of the car for awhile...