enida21

Hello guys, I am new to this forum and I am desperate to find some answers. I think you guys could help me figured this out. Let me first start by saying I am a girl and know very little about cars. This is what happened my car has been getting wet inside since forever and I never paid attention to it because I thought it didn’t really matter, until a few days that my car will not start or will star and shut off right away. The spot where my car gets wet is the floor on the passenger side and little did I know that the car’s computer was there. Even though the floor on the passenger side was wet the car was still running fine. It kept raining for days, and on the third day I actually went to a few places and after I got off work my car wouldn’t turn on. I tried to jump start the car with jumper box and it didn’t do anything, and then I jumped start the car with cables and it actually did turn on. It stayed on for like thirty minutes and then I felt like my car was going to turn off and drove home. When I turn it off and tried to turn it back on it wouldn’t start again. I tried everything for using jumper cables from a car to mine, 3 jumper boxes and nothing seem to work, so I towed it to the mechanic. They checked the alternator; ignition, distributor, fuses, battery, spark plugs, and they told me it was the car’s computer because the floor above it was wet. They tried drying the computer and put it back in the car and the car started again but shut off after about 20 minutes. The car cranks but will not always start and when it does start it doesn’t last long. Now my question is, could it really be the car’s computer? Because the computer itself was not soaking wet, or, could it be something else? Any tips or advice would be helpful. Thanks!
Forgot to mention that we tried a used computer but it wasn’t the same number, this used computer turned on the car but it shut off right away. The computer number for my car is 37820-p28-a52 and the one we tried on (used from another honda civic 1995 4 door, mine is a 2 door and has a different engine) was 37820-p06-a52.

my car is a honda civic 1995 v4 vtech

Somalie187

iTrader: (1)

I am not sure of the skill of your mechanic but I too recently was experiencing a no start issue with my car.

Lets go through the check list

1. When you turn your car to the ON position (not cranking) do you hear the whirling of the fuel pump. The sound will come from behind you listen closely.

2. Was your battery checked with a special machine, and can you tell us what the mechanic said about it?

Answer these first two question and we will keep going down the line... And if you feel like getting a little dirty you can do some wrench work, very easy btw.

enida21

idk about the fuel pump, car is at the mechanic now but i will see if i can check it tomorrow. supposedly they checked it and it was working fine.

battery i dont think it is because we even switch battery from another car and put it into mine and it would still not start. plus a week ago, my boyfriends car wouldnt start so he took my battery out to see if his car would start and it did, and later on we comfirm his battery was damaged. so i think my battery is fine.

Former User

There are tests that can be done, if you are able and willing. If not, you are at the mercy of your mechanic.

Fliptard

Do you have a sunroof? If so, the drain hose that runs down the passenger side is clogged and that's why there is watter on the floor.

enida21

SURE let me know which tests i can do, if i need help i can get my dad or a friend to help. i am willing to try things since i am not sure is the computer.

enida21

yeap i have a sunroof, i will check that out if i get the car fixed.

Former User

Is your car still in the hands of your mechanic or in your possession?

enida21

I left it at the mechanic since it wont stay on, but i can go anytime and try to perform the tests. i would prefer if you can give me a list of things i should, so i can do all of them in one trip.

Former User

Do you have a multimeter and tools available to you?

enida21

yes i have those things

Former User

-Remove the passenger side kick panel. Dry the passenger side carpet, the ECU, and the ECU connectors.

-Voltage test installed fuses 31, 24, and 18. Click the Test Fuses link in my signature.

-Clean and tighten the G101 ground attached to the thermostat housing.

-When these^ are done, reset the ECU (click codes link in my signature) and then turn the key from off to ON(II). Does the CEL remain on steady or turn off after 2 seconds?

-If the CEL remains on steady, pull the CEL codes. (click codes link in my signature)

-Post the results.

enida21

ok i will try to perform those things and let you know of any codes that i get

delsolintegra

You need to try another P28-A51 KNOWN good ECU. (D16Z6 engine-auto)

Probably capacitor at C14 location on the circuit board has been compromised by the moisture/condensation.

This is common. The sympton is you won't hear the fuel pump try to prime as you turn the key to start the car. This capacitor is integral to the fuel pump priming circuit. This problem can come and go for a while before it totally fails.

enida21

you sure p28 a51 would work? since mine is p28 a52.

Former User

Below didn't help, right?

Former User

A P06 ECU was tried and I assume it didn't help. It's not a perfect match but the P06 should start the engine. This is not a good fit for the P28 ECU being the problem.

enida21

I couldn't go today because i had school and it was raining when i got out. But the mechanic call me today and said that sometimes theres electricity getting to the distributor and sometimes there is not. they keep saying they think is the computer. i will keep posting as i get more information

enida21

exactly the p06 didnt help at all, it did the same thing my p28 is doing. sometimes the car starts but shuts off immediately and sometimes it doesnt do anything.

Former User

There's no timeline on this end.

As long as you pay the mechanic to work on your car, there's not much to discuss. If the mechanic doesn't fix your car and you take it home and want to fix it yourself, then I guess we'll hear back from you.

delsolintegra

The P28-A52 is designated for the auto (94-95 EX and Del Dol SI)

The P28-A51 is designated for the auto (92-93 EX) and works in my 93 del sol Si

The P28-A50 is designated for the auto 93 del sol Si

These are all OBD 1 and vtec and probably interchangeable no problem.


The P06 is 92-95 OBD 1 Civic DX which is not vtec but maybe should start your car.

Find the exact A52 or if you can't a A51 should work.
Borrow one first just to diagnose your problem.

enida21

fuses 31, 24, and 18 were tested and are good. we clean the G101 ground and still car didnt turn on. my CEL light does not remain steady, it actually goes on and then off right away. ECU and cables/connectors were completely dried too.

Also, my dad noticed the car used to have an alarm and think that maybe that is what is preventing my car from staying on. he's thinking of just removing the whole thing tomorrow to see if that works.

Former User

This^ is extremely useful information.

When the key was turned from off to ON(II), did the fuel pump prime/run (humming noise in gas tank) for 2 seconds as the CEL turned on and then off?

Have you checked whether all four spark plugs have bright white spark? Click the Spark link in my signature.

This^ is worth considering, but I think you should delay until a few more basic tests are done.

enida21

yes the fuel pump run (i could hear it from inside my car).

We checked the spark plugs like 5 days ago, to check if they were burnt but we never tested the way you described in your page. Will definitely look into that tomorrow. do you think that the alarm could be preventing my car from turning on and sometimes staying on, like my dad suspect? (i am assuming the previous owner put it on, but i do not have controls or anything, i didn't even know that there was an alarm on the car) is it a good idea to just take the whole thing out?

Former User

This^ is also critically important information. It's quite possible that there's a spark problem, so the important next step is to check for spark. If there is no spark, you mentioned that a mechanic stated that voltage was not getting to the distributor. You should redo the voltage tests if there's no spark. You should also check whether the timing belt snapped. I'll give details after you post the spark results.

Alarm systems can cause no-start problems, but typically they work by cutting off voltage to the fuel pump, which is not your problem. Set your concerns about the alarm system aside until you do the other tests I mentioned.