95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
#1
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
The max my VX has gotten so far is 43.3. That's keeping it below 2500 as best I can in 5th. Shifting 1 through 5 at 2000.
Last edited by Former User; 09-18-2011 at 08:22 AM.
#2
Honda-Tech Member
Re: My 1994 civic got 63mpg!?
The max my VX has gotten so far is 43.3. That's keeping it below 2500 as best I can in 5th. Shifting 1 through 5 at 2000. I don't see how you can get higher mpgs going above 55mph, much less doing 62mph. Any aero mods? Still wouldn't explain THAT high mpgs. If you tuned it to anything weaker than a stock VX HP, I would expect that car would be undriveable. You'd barely have any pick-up.
Last edited by Former User; 09-18-2011 at 08:18 AM. Reason: Thread clean up
#3
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: My 1994 civic got 63mpg!?
Changed oil, sparks and air filter. Dunno what else to do. I get code 48 sporatically. Next thing I'll do is check my timing. I've only had the car since the end of August. I do tend to have a heavier foot than most.
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: My 1994 civic got 63mpg!?
Even with a lead foot, you should be able to EASILY average over 50mpg in these cars. To give you an idea, these vehicles when properly tuned can get upwards of 72mpg on the highway. (Albiet under certain circumstances like cruising on a flat road at like 50-55mph)
#5
Re: My 1994 civic got 63mpg!?
But, your driving style will have a very large affect on MPG. A heavy foot will kill fuel economy. Take your foot out of it, and keep the RPM's as low as possible.
#6
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: My 1994 civic got 63mpg!?
Replace PCV valve, check for vacuum leaks, replace old vacuum hoses, scrub clean every single bolt, eyelit, bolt hole etc. related to your electrical grounds you can find by looking in the Honda service manual. Don't scrape off any paint as a clean bolt hole is all that is needed... not to mention you lose the protection the paint provides. Other things to do are adjust valve lash, clean everything related to the EGR system, check for a cracked exhaust manifold, if your ignition system is getting old or well past is service date for replacement, be sure to replace with OEM equivalent ONLY!!!! That means if it says Denso and NGK, you stick with them! Don't use Bosch as Bosch parts don't work well on Japanese and American cars since they weren't designed with them in mind. Use what ever was designed with the car at the time of manufacture unless the OEM provides a better substitute.
Even with a lead foot, you should be able to EASILY average over 50mpg in these cars. To give you an idea, these vehicles when properly tuned can get upwards of 72mpg on the highway. (Albiet under certain circumstances like cruising on a flat road at like 50-55mph)
Even with a lead foot, you should be able to EASILY average over 50mpg in these cars. To give you an idea, these vehicles when properly tuned can get upwards of 72mpg on the highway. (Albiet under certain circumstances like cruising on a flat road at like 50-55mph)
I've read about the awesome MPGs, that's what I'm looking for.
#7
Honda-Tech Member
Re: My 1994 civic got 63mpg!?
PCV is good. The PO replaced it with the kind you rattle to know it's good. Pretty sure I have no vac leaks, but I will go over again. Also will look for rusted grounds. I'll try to check valve lash. I'll go over the EGR. Ignition should be good, car starts up no problem.
I've read about the awesome MPGs, that's what I'm looking for.
I've read about the awesome MPGs, that's what I'm looking for.
As for your electrical grounds, they needn't be rusted in order to clean them, just clean them anyway. I found my car ran better after cleaning them even though I have a California car, have no rust and they looked clean when inspected from the outside.
Trending Topics
#10
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
Haven't been on in a while. The light has been coming on less frequently these past weeks.
Here's an update on what I've done since:
I have noticed my MPG efficiency dropping the last few fill ups. I decided to monitor everything a bit more closely.
I had found a leaking coolant hose last week and fixed it. I found this out after thinking about how my revs bouncing up and down can be related to coolant, so I checked thoroughly for leaks. I am guessing the one I found was getting progressively worse because when I started working on this car in september, it was not as exaggerated as I found it.
The fix blew off a couple of days later and I bandaided it then. Today I fixed it so it should be good. It would make sense to for it to fix the rev bounce as coolant would be controlled with no air gaps.
Question for all you guys: how the hell do you fill your coolant?? The car never gets hot enough with the rad cap off to get the t-stat to open and the fans never come on. It will eventually warm up to a little below the mid line and just sit there. I just fill whatever I can in the rad and the overflow tank and level off the overflow after driving some miles. I've done the squeezing the rad hose trick, but it barely works.
When fixing that hose, I took a good look at two of the grounds. The top right (facing the engine) that connects between the front rad support and the exhuast area was rusted. The exposed part of the wire was green and slightly frayed. I went ahead and replaced that. All I had was 2 gage battery wire that I cut up.
The next wire was the bottom left, connecting the engine and the body. This was a thicker wire than the other. I think it is the main ground. It was all green. The body side was half frayed and broken. I attached pics of it below. They cuts are a bit exaggerated as some broken during removal. Although it is pretty easy to break. With a light touch, they braids will snap. I remedied this with the same 2 gage battery wire.
Can anyone point out more grounding wires??
I am hoping these fixes will get my car back to 100%, especially the big ground wire. Lesson learned: do as fleabag says and triple check your grounds.
Here's an update on what I've done since:
I have noticed my MPG efficiency dropping the last few fill ups. I decided to monitor everything a bit more closely.
I had found a leaking coolant hose last week and fixed it. I found this out after thinking about how my revs bouncing up and down can be related to coolant, so I checked thoroughly for leaks. I am guessing the one I found was getting progressively worse because when I started working on this car in september, it was not as exaggerated as I found it.
The fix blew off a couple of days later and I bandaided it then. Today I fixed it so it should be good. It would make sense to for it to fix the rev bounce as coolant would be controlled with no air gaps.
Question for all you guys: how the hell do you fill your coolant?? The car never gets hot enough with the rad cap off to get the t-stat to open and the fans never come on. It will eventually warm up to a little below the mid line and just sit there. I just fill whatever I can in the rad and the overflow tank and level off the overflow after driving some miles. I've done the squeezing the rad hose trick, but it barely works.
When fixing that hose, I took a good look at two of the grounds. The top right (facing the engine) that connects between the front rad support and the exhuast area was rusted. The exposed part of the wire was green and slightly frayed. I went ahead and replaced that. All I had was 2 gage battery wire that I cut up.
The next wire was the bottom left, connecting the engine and the body. This was a thicker wire than the other. I think it is the main ground. It was all green. The body side was half frayed and broken. I attached pics of it below. They cuts are a bit exaggerated as some broken during removal. Although it is pretty easy to break. With a light touch, they braids will snap. I remedied this with the same 2 gage battery wire.
Can anyone point out more grounding wires??
I am hoping these fixes will get my car back to 100%, especially the big ground wire. Lesson learned: do as fleabag says and triple check your grounds.
#11
Honda-Tech Member
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: chicago burbs, Il, USA
Posts: 5,150
Likes: 0
Received 23 Likes
on
23 Posts
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
the thermostat regulates temperature of the engine below operating temp.
If it's partially stuck open and it's cooler temperatures (typical for november) the Z1 may never get up to operating temp while idling.
randomly popping up CEL48 can mean that the O2 is on it's way out.
It could also be because of your ground wires. Hopefully it stops popping up.
If it still pops up from time to time, or your mpg doesn't increase, start shopping for a new O2. (NGK L1H1)
the third ground wire that tends to have problems on our hondas is the one from the battery to the chassis. There is also a smaller ground wire at the thermostat housing, that the main ground for the ECU, make sure those wires are in good shape and the connection is clean and tight. All though the trans to chassis is the one that tends to be the worst.
Keep in mind sometimes you get better mpg if you run higher RPM rather than lugging the engine at lower RPM. It's a fine line sometimes between keeping the RPMs low and keeping the load on the engine low. Throttle position matters more than anything.
After a few years of driving my VX I started noticing a pitch difference in the intake noise when I was lugging the engine. I also enjoyed the addition of a CAI to my VX, I doubt is made any serious difference in performance or efficiency, but it allowed the engine to be easier heard so downshifts became easier to judge.
When I was not in a rush, I could run highway cruising at 60-65mph, and easily pull high 50mpg.
Peaked after a work over and a new O2 at 62.5mpg.
[ie: timing belt/water pump/tensioner, valve adjustment, fuel/air/oil filter, oil change, alignment]
(wasn't aiming for mpg just a good prep for winter)
In town with a heavier right foot than you mentioned, I saw mid 40mpg. Anything other than straight in town driving (ie limits under 45mph and no runs longer than 1/2mile) would result in that number shooting up easily to the high 40s or low 50s.
If it's partially stuck open and it's cooler temperatures (typical for november) the Z1 may never get up to operating temp while idling.
randomly popping up CEL48 can mean that the O2 is on it's way out.
It could also be because of your ground wires. Hopefully it stops popping up.
If it still pops up from time to time, or your mpg doesn't increase, start shopping for a new O2. (NGK L1H1)
the third ground wire that tends to have problems on our hondas is the one from the battery to the chassis. There is also a smaller ground wire at the thermostat housing, that the main ground for the ECU, make sure those wires are in good shape and the connection is clean and tight. All though the trans to chassis is the one that tends to be the worst.
Keep in mind sometimes you get better mpg if you run higher RPM rather than lugging the engine at lower RPM. It's a fine line sometimes between keeping the RPMs low and keeping the load on the engine low. Throttle position matters more than anything.
After a few years of driving my VX I started noticing a pitch difference in the intake noise when I was lugging the engine. I also enjoyed the addition of a CAI to my VX, I doubt is made any serious difference in performance or efficiency, but it allowed the engine to be easier heard so downshifts became easier to judge.
When I was not in a rush, I could run highway cruising at 60-65mph, and easily pull high 50mpg.
Peaked after a work over and a new O2 at 62.5mpg.
[ie: timing belt/water pump/tensioner, valve adjustment, fuel/air/oil filter, oil change, alignment]
(wasn't aiming for mpg just a good prep for winter)
In town with a heavier right foot than you mentioned, I saw mid 40mpg. Anything other than straight in town driving (ie limits under 45mph and no runs longer than 1/2mile) would result in that number shooting up easily to the high 40s or low 50s.
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Thread Starter
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
the thermostat regulates temperature of the engine below operating temp.
If it's partially stuck open and it's cooler temperatures (typical for november) the Z1 may never get up to operating temp while idling.
if it was partially stuck open, i think you would be able to see it somewhat flowing in the rad. also it would eventually overheat if i drove a long distance, which it hasn't.
randomly popping up CEL48 can mean that the O2 is on it's way out.
It could also be because of your ground wires. Hopefully it stops popping up.
If it still pops up from time to time, or your mpg doesn't increase, start shopping for a new O2. (NGK L1H1)
i'm seriously hoping it's not the o2. the code hasn't popped up on my 32 mile commute this morning, but it hasn't always before.
the third ground wire that tends to have problems on our hondas is the one from the battery to the chassis. There is also a smaller ground wire at the thermostat housing, that the main ground for the ECU, make sure those wires are in good shape and the connection is clean and tight. All though the trans to chassis is the one that tends to be the worst.
i just went out and looked at the battery to chassis wire. it seems to be in good shape. not a whole lot of green. i can still see the copper color of the wire. doesn't break when i press on it.
forgot to look at the t-stat one. i'll look at it later.
Keep in mind sometimes you get better mpg if you run higher RPM rather than lugging the engine at lower RPM. It's a fine line sometimes between keeping the RPMs low and keeping the load on the engine low. Throttle position matters more than anything.
yeah, i'm still on the learning cycle with these things lol. i've been driving torquey v8s before this, so i have to remember that second gear cannot handle 1500rpm upshifts. i'm trying to keep my foot out of it as much as possible.
After a few years of driving my VX I started noticing a pitch difference in the intake noise when I was lugging the engine. I also enjoyed the addition of a CAI to my VX, I doubt is made any serious difference in performance or efficiency, but it allowed the engine to be easier heard so downshifts became easier to judge.
When I was not in a rush, I could run highway cruising at 60-65mph, and easily pull high 50mpg.
Peaked after a work over and a new O2 at 62.5mpg.
[ie: timing belt/water pump/tensioner, valve adjustment, fuel/air/oil filter, oil change, alignment]
(wasn't aiming for mpg just a good prep for winter)
In town with a heavier right foot than you mentioned, I saw mid 40mpg. Anything other than straight in town driving (ie limits under 45mph and no runs longer than 1/2mile) would result in that number shooting up easily to the high 40s or low 50s.
If it's partially stuck open and it's cooler temperatures (typical for november) the Z1 may never get up to operating temp while idling.
if it was partially stuck open, i think you would be able to see it somewhat flowing in the rad. also it would eventually overheat if i drove a long distance, which it hasn't.
randomly popping up CEL48 can mean that the O2 is on it's way out.
It could also be because of your ground wires. Hopefully it stops popping up.
If it still pops up from time to time, or your mpg doesn't increase, start shopping for a new O2. (NGK L1H1)
i'm seriously hoping it's not the o2. the code hasn't popped up on my 32 mile commute this morning, but it hasn't always before.
the third ground wire that tends to have problems on our hondas is the one from the battery to the chassis. There is also a smaller ground wire at the thermostat housing, that the main ground for the ECU, make sure those wires are in good shape and the connection is clean and tight. All though the trans to chassis is the one that tends to be the worst.
i just went out and looked at the battery to chassis wire. it seems to be in good shape. not a whole lot of green. i can still see the copper color of the wire. doesn't break when i press on it.
forgot to look at the t-stat one. i'll look at it later.
Keep in mind sometimes you get better mpg if you run higher RPM rather than lugging the engine at lower RPM. It's a fine line sometimes between keeping the RPMs low and keeping the load on the engine low. Throttle position matters more than anything.
yeah, i'm still on the learning cycle with these things lol. i've been driving torquey v8s before this, so i have to remember that second gear cannot handle 1500rpm upshifts. i'm trying to keep my foot out of it as much as possible.
After a few years of driving my VX I started noticing a pitch difference in the intake noise when I was lugging the engine. I also enjoyed the addition of a CAI to my VX, I doubt is made any serious difference in performance or efficiency, but it allowed the engine to be easier heard so downshifts became easier to judge.
When I was not in a rush, I could run highway cruising at 60-65mph, and easily pull high 50mpg.
Peaked after a work over and a new O2 at 62.5mpg.
[ie: timing belt/water pump/tensioner, valve adjustment, fuel/air/oil filter, oil change, alignment]
(wasn't aiming for mpg just a good prep for winter)
In town with a heavier right foot than you mentioned, I saw mid 40mpg. Anything other than straight in town driving (ie limits under 45mph and no runs longer than 1/2mile) would result in that number shooting up easily to the high 40s or low 50s.
#13
Oh look, I can change this
iTrader: (8)
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
FWIW, here is an interesting read on PCVs in VXs: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...v-info-18.html
Coles notes: VX "PCV" is just an empty tube with no internals. Replacement part #s nowadays use a PCV with internals but these should be gutted.
Coles notes: VX "PCV" is just an empty tube with no internals. Replacement part #s nowadays use a PCV with internals but these should be gutted.
#14
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
FWIW, here is an interesting read on PCVs in VXs: http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthrea...v-info-18.html
Coles notes: VX "PCV" is just an empty tube with no internals. Replacement part #s nowadays use a PCV with internals but these should be gutted.
Coles notes: VX "PCV" is just an empty tube with no internals. Replacement part #s nowadays use a PCV with internals but these should be gutted.
#15
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
I agree. I find the best method is to run at as low an RPM as you can without lugging and without putting the pedal to the floor. I try to avoid going more than half way down on the accelerator and shifting form 1st to 2nd at 1500rpm (12mph or so) 2nd to 3rd at 20mph, 3rd to 4th at 25mph and 4th to 5th at 30mph.
#16
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
I agree. I find the best method is to run at as low an RPM as you can without lugging and without putting the pedal to the floor. I try to avoid going more than half way down on the accelerator and shifting form 1st to 2nd at 1500rpm (12mph or so) 2nd to 3rd at 20mph, 3rd to 4th at 25mph and 4th to 5th at 30mph.
#17
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
Yeah, you got it right fleabag. Going down slight grades I can shift even earlier, but not too much. I need a valve adjustment on my current one. Not sure if that would help with the low end valve lift and timing, but it's a 15,000 mile scheduled maintenance item for the VX. As for 43.3mpg it's about what I get in the winter. In the summer I can get low 60s.
#18
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
Yeah, you got it right fleabag. Going down slight grades I can shift even earlier, but not too much. I need a valve adjustment on my current one. Not sure if that would help with the low end valve lift and timing, but it's a 15,000 mile scheduled maintenance item for the VX. As for 43.3mpg it's about what I get in the winter. In the summer I can get low 60s.
#19
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
Well I would go through the thread from the beginning and follow the suggestions. 30mpg is difficult in a VX to achieve unless something is very wrong with the car.
#20
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
i've actually clocked in at 25 before. But then I discovered my mileage was off from larger tires, and it ended up around 29. I'm getting a new thermostat, and my dad told me it would help to cover up 3/4 of my radiator for now just so the car would warm up. Once school is over i'll have time to fix all of her issues i hope
#21
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
i've actually clocked in at 25 before. But then I discovered my mileage was off from larger tires, and it ended up around 29. I'm getting a new thermostat, and my dad told me it would help to cover up 3/4 of my radiator for now just so the car would warm up. Once school is over i'll have time to fix all of her issues i hope
#24
Re: 95 Civic VX gas mileage - Is 43.3 mpg good or bad?
There's multiple oil leaks, so it's hard for me to tell whether or not it's burning oil... I'll try and pick up a multimeter somewhere then