PR0BLEMS

Here is my problem:

95 civic si, drove it ran fine. parked it and attempted to start it 2 days later. Engine cranks and cranks and cranks, gets flooded from all the cranking. Finally get it to run and then dies after 4 minutes of idle, shuts off like a switch, doesnt sputter out. Crank and crank again and does the same thing. Get it started again after many cranks, hold the RPM at about 1500 for 10 minutes and it doesnt die, let idle for another 10 minutes, doesnt die, drive around for a bit and runs ok. return home and shut off car, restart the car and it fires right up. 2 days later i try to start it again and the same thing happens again. wont start at all even after many times cranking.

1-I am not getting any codes at all
2-Ignition coil tested and replaced with new one
3-Ignition imput tested -BLK/YL wire gets 12v - BLU/WHT wire gets 12v with ignition on
4-Main relay tested per honda book and getting continuity as needed
5- No blown fuses

Please help and Thanks in advance

lunareg

if you crank with your foot on the pedal it will put it into clear flood mode which may solve some of the problems. after that I would think cap wires and plugs

PR0BLEMS

Cap and rotor are new-maybe 200 miles on them-
wires are old, will try those next, have swaped plugs

thanks for your response

EDIT:
i dont think it is the wires, i checked the ohm resistance in all 4 wires and it was well under the honda limits---Any other ideas?

instructor74

Had a problem like this with mine. It turned out to be a faulty fuel pump. It would not build enough pressure to start but once running it would be okay. I chased it for quite some time until out of frustration I changed it out.

PR0BLEMS

i do have a fuel presure gauge on my filter and it reads 40 when i turn the ignition switch to the on position, but then it starts to decrease, it is an after market pump with about 50k on that pump, my only question to your response is why would it not start after the 2nd or third attempt if it is getting flooded to the point of smelling it in the driver seat while trying to start?

thanks for your response i will look into that issue as well

Former User

Check for spark at the plugs.

grant97teg

Long shot but possible main relay or motor grounds....had one that was fine all winter but once in a while in summer would do what your saying. Swaped out main relay and fine ever since..

instructor74

I dont have an answer for your question as to why but I could also smell fuel from inside the car when it wouldnt start. I didnt have a fuel pressure gauge to see what it was when in failure. I do know that the pump sounded a bit off when it wouldnt start and with the new pump there is a noticable diff in sound and the car has always started since I replaced the pump. It very well could not be your problem but it might be something to look into.

PR0BLEMS

Well i got the car running, went to buy a plug to do a spark test, and while im waiting for a helper i find my stock plug wires which have about 75k on them, put them on just to see and she fires right up--how ever it did die on me once during warm up-- started it back up and ran fine without dieing. at least i dont have to sit there and crank endlessly and flood the engine. So i think i will buy some new honda wires and some new plugs just to be safe. the car has had a rough idle for some time so that might have caused it to die on first warm up. But atleast it runs-- for now-- the true test will be to see if it starts again in 3 days when i get back from out of town.

Many thanks to all who helped and to this site. Very much appreciated

PR0BLEMS

Well the problem is back again, ran fine after a 3 day sitting, started several times and ran good, had a bog when i stepped on the gas so i swapped my old cat just to test if it was the cat, and now it has never started again. starting to get frustrating.

What ive done:
New plugs
New wires
New ignition coil
New ignition unit
New fuel filter
New Main relay
Cap and Rotor are not new but very close to and in very good condition

Any ideas?

EDIT:
No codes are being thrown, when i do the jumper i get a solid CEL and a flashing SRS does that = code 0

PR0BLEMS

Anyone? ^

Former User

Again, do you have spark?

Does the fuel pump prime?

Code 0 is when the CEL remains on steady BOTH with and without the service connector jumped.

PR0BLEMS

dont seem to be getting any spark on all 4 wires

fuel pump primes and floods the engine

fv8s

have you tried a new distributor? i had a similar problem and that solved mine. borrow a friends and see if it works you have nothing to loose.

fv8s

what do you mean you don't "seem" to be getting spark? you either have spark or dont. pull the wires out and crank it over. if it sparks you have spark; if you dont see a spark then you do not have one. doing this at night may help because you will be able to see the arch better

PR0BLEMS

no spark is what i meant to say

and i dont have access to another distributor for a 95 si, only a 94 VX are they interchangable?

Former User

Remove the distributor cap, rotor, and inner cover. Check whether the Blk/Yel wire attached to the coil and igniter unit get voltage to body ground with the key in ON(II).

Do you have code 0 or just no codes?

PR0BLEMS

i have no codes, when i do the jumper i get a solid CEL and a flashing SRS

every time i check BLK/YEL wire there is battery voltage with key in ON(II)

Former User

Check the coil and igniter unit inside the distributor.

PR0BLEMS

just checked again and have battery voltage on blk/yel and wht/blu

PR0BLEMS

they are both brand new

Former User

Check the Yel/Grn wire that runs between the igniter unit and ECU for an open or short. This requires a multimeter.

PR0BLEMS

ok i will try that, what should the multimeter read?

Edit:
ive heard the wire changes color at the ecu to pink/white on 95s

Former User

The Yel/Grn wire pins to A21 and A22 of the ECU:

http://www.phearable.net/tech/wiring...schematics.gif

1) You should not measure contiunity to body ground from either end of the wire.

2) You should measure continuity (<50 Ohms resistance) between the two ends of the wire.

PR0BLEMS

my bad i meant red/green NOT pink/white

A21 and A22, how does one wire go to two differant pins? (just wondering)

will check now, hope my leads are long enough