amoebiasis

Hello everyone. I need help with my engine. I have searched around but have had no luck. I will try to be as detailed as possible. (sorry ahead of time for the long post)

First off, I have a 95 civic coupe with a jdm b18cR swap, 96 spec. Basically stock with I/H/E. I have had the engine for about 2 years now. The only issues I've had with it has been with the distributor electrical connector, which I replaced with a Deutsch connector several months ago. I also have a remote start/alarm installed on it. The engine as never burned oil, even with spirited driving.

This is what happened: Thursday night I drove home after work (40min drive, all hwy) and parked it. Everything was fine. I didn't notice any issues with it and did not drive it hard. Friday morning I used my remote start to start it, however the alarm reported an error. I went out to the car and it would not start. I do not know if it started for a second with the remote start and shutoff, or if it simply did not start. I am leaning towards the latter.

We got some snow and ice during the night, and at first I thought it might be related to the cold weather. I started to poke around, and found out the problem. The screw that bolts the distributor rotor to the shaft had backed out and was being tossed around in the cap. One of the cap terminals was bent 90° back, the rotor was damaged, and the inner cover was sliced up. Other than that, I did not see any damage. I replaced the cap and rotor today, ensuring that I had the plug wires correctly installed, went to start it and it still did not start, however this time I could tell it was on the verge (barely) of catching. I took the plugs out and verified I had fuel, and checked to make sure that I had power to the distributor. The coil also checked out. The cam gears are correctly lined up, the belt is tight, and when I move it to TDC, the rotor is lined up with the number 1 terminal. The fuses under the hood were all fine. I wasn't sure what to do next, so I did a compression test. The engine was cold (didn't have any way to warm it).

This is where it gets a little weird. The first time I ran the test the cylinders gave me this, if I remember right: (nominal is 270)
1: 270 2: ~150? 3: ~180? 4: 240

I tested it again (I didn't write any of this down so I am relying on my bad memory)
1: 180 2: 180? 3: 150? 4: 240

I ran it a couple of more times and I kept getting different numbers for the first 3 cylinders, however cylinder 4 stayed the same. After testing several times, the numbers became consistent:
1: 120 2: 220 3: 200 4: 240

I got these numbers about 3-4 times in a row. Why cylinder one started at 270 and ended up at 120 is beyond me (I am absolutely sure of these numbers, if not the others) There was a little bit of fuel in the cylinders from me trying to start it before, however I did have the fuel system and ignition system disabled.

I then did a wet test on cylinder one. I poured about half a cap of oil in the cylinder and tested it again. I got 120 again. From what I read this points to the valve train.

I double checked the distributor for damage and couldn't find any, then put everything back together and tried to start it. It didn't start but you could tell it was trying. I also checked for any leaks around the head and found a little bit of coolant behind cylinder one but not much. I couldn't tell if it leaked out of the head or not. I have not seen any smoke from the exhaust and I check quite often.

Any help or advice would be greatly appreciated. If possible, I would like to have it fixed before Monday so I do not miss work so help asap would be even more appreciated. I am open to any suggestions. Blown head gasket? Bent valve? Burnt valve? Electrical issue? Thanks ahead of time.


Also, it might or might not be related, however I have been hearing a weird tapping sound coming from the engine. I thought it was valve lash so I adjusted my valves and it didn't change anything. I was not a regular sound like you would expect (tap-tap-tap-tap...). It was more like taptap-tap-taptaptap-tap-tap-taptap. I had intended on looking in on it this weekend before all of this happened. The sound seemed like it was coming from either cylinder one or two's exhaust valves.

Former User

You need (1) to replace the damaged distributor inner cover and (2) to check for spark. Click the spark link in my signature. Spark should be bright white at all 4 spark plugs.

How do you know the coil is good? Give details.

Any CEL codes?

Is the mechanical timing dead on?

Were the cylinder compression tests done with the hood 15A ECU removed at WOT and cranking at full speed? Give details.

amoebiasis

I was planning to check for spark first thing tomorrow morning. I measured the resistance between the coil's terminals A and B and between A and the secondary winding according to the helms manual. A and B resitance was within the range but the other resistance was a little under. I attributed this to the cold temp. It was close to 35℉. If I remeber right the manual calls for 12kohms to 15kohms. I believe I got 9.5kohms but I'm not sure. I'll check again tomorrow.

The compression test was done with both distributor connectors unplugged, the ecu 15a fused pulled, and the fi relay under the dash disconnected for good measure. WOT for every test.

I couldn't get a cel code. I cranked it for a while to see if it would throw one but it didn't. However I didn't time how ling I cranked it for. I might need to crank it longer. If I remember right there is a minimum amount u have to crank it for it to throw one. Is this correct?

I lined up TDC perfectly and the rotor was pointed directly at the number one terminal. The "up" on both cam gears was pointing up and the white mark on the crank was lined up with the indicator on the cover. I can check this again tommorrow.

amoebiasis

I forgot to add that I have already ordered the inner cover from Acura, along with oem cap and rotor. They probably won't be in until Tuesday or Thursday. I am using the cheap alternatives that advance sells until they come in.

Former User

After you check spark/spark quality, remove the coil and igniter unit from the car and bring them inside your house for a while to warm to room temperature. Then re-Ohm test the coil and be sure to subtract the internal resistance of your meter from the primary coil reading.

Take the igniter unit to AutoZone because they will test it free of charge.

All this looks fine -- It is 20 seconds cranking for CEL codes.

Former User

You could buy the inner cover from Advance? I didn't know that. You can do the spark test with these aftermarket parts installed.

amoebiasis

No I'm still using the old messed up one until the new one comes in. Its not messed up so bad that I can't use it. Basically the screw cut a circle in the cover from turning if this makes sense.

Can I use a remote starter switch to check the spark? I got an old one from my dad that I have never used. Otherwise I have to wait for my gf to wake up.

I know I am running low on battery juice from all the cranking I did yesterday but hopefully I have enough to last through the spark test. After my gf gets home at 5 I'll connect it to her car, so long as the parking spot beside me is open.

Thanks for your help with this.

Former User

Post a picture. There's risk of spark arcing through the distributor if the inner cover is damaged.

I don't see why not. Just make sure the tranny is in neutral.

You need a strong battery to interpret the spark test. What's its voltage?

amoebiasis

So I jumped the car off with my girlfriends car and let it charge the battery for a while. I then did the spark test (while still jumped off). No spark on any wire. I went ahead and took the entire distributor off and brought it inside. After letting the coil warm up some, I tested it again. The primary terminals have .7ohms (.6-.8 is the range), and the secondary has 9.2Kohms. The range is 12.8 to 19.2.

I will take the ignitor to advance to get it tested. I guess will go ahead and replace the coil since it is out of range.

Former User

Exactly

amoebiasis

Here are the requested pics

http://db.tt/JAmokIiH


The screw cut a ring out of the cover which was originally still attached to the cover. The first pics show this. Then it fell off on me so I took pics of this too. The rotor still covers up the hole however.

I got a new coil and installed it. Advance and AutoZone both said that they could not test it. So I tested it according to the manual which basically tests all of the wires going to the module. All of these tests checked out. If I still do not have spark it would mean that it is bad correct?

Former User

AutoZone does test igniter units, but not all employees realize it or know how. Call them to ask to look in their computer for how to do the igniter unit test. But yes, the igniter unit is the next place to focus. It would not be surprising at all if both the coil and igniter unit blew when the rotor and screw came loose.

Here's an igniter unit DIY:

http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...eshooting.html

And definitely replace the inner cover ASAP.

amoebiasis

One of the guys at AutoZone did go refer to some manual but said he didn't have the specs for it. What do you think about the inner cover? Safe to drive until possibly Thursday?

Former User

Is there another AZ in your town? If so, give them a call.

Probably

amoebiasis

Before I went to another AutoZone I decided to go ahead and try starting it. I put everything back together and it started! It's running like nothing happened. I just checked the timing and it's good. I'm letting the engine cool off now and I am going to do another compression test as soon as it cools some.

Depending on what the compression results are, I will start a new thread for it if there is a problem.

Thanks again for all your help. I really appreciate it. I do have another question for you though. What do you think of the coil I got? It was 75 at advance and the only one they had. I didnt want to wait for the dealer so I went ahead and got it. It's made by BWD. Do you think it would be worth it to switch it out to the oem one?

Former User

I would have done the same. I would just go with what you got.