95 civic with d16z6 swap
#1
95 civic with d16z6 swap
ok so i jus bought this car and everythings cool about it expect the idle, it goes up and down all the time when im stopped, and one time i was jus stopped watching it and then it died, hasnt done it again but its got me worried, supposedly i asked the previous owner about it and he said it was from a chip he had on the ecu, but i took it out and its still like tht, i jus cleaned the iacv and its now air drying but i jus wanna see if theres anything else that could be wrong, i havent in depth checked for vac leaks but i did brief check and everything looked ok.
ps i used to have a dc4 that did this and i later find out it was caused by bad cam in the block
ps i used to have a dc4 that did this and i later find out it was caused by bad cam in the block
#4
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
Here is a quick test:
Remove the intake tube so that you can see inside the front of the throttle body.
There are two ports inside the mouth of the throttle body just in front of the throttle blade... and when viewed from the passenger side of the car, are located at approximately the 8-o'clock and 10-o'clock positions.
Crank the car and warm the engine to operating temp. Now let it idle (as best as it can anyway). First, wearing a Mechanix type glove, place a finger over the hole at the 8 o'clock position. IF the car idles down to normal, then your issue is the fast idle thermo valve, which is bolted to the bottom of the throttle body. The fix is to open up the unit and tighten the plunger cap inside, or replace the FITV.
If there is no change, move your finger to the 10 o'clock position. If you cover this hole completely, the car should idle at 500 rpm or possibly stall. If it doesn't, you will need to clean the IACV or replace it with a known good one and re-test.
If it does not change the idle speed or "hunting" (up and down cyclic idle), you have a significant vacuum leak. It could be the PCV valve, so do not forget to pinch that hose closed close to the intake manifold and see if there is a change.
If the PCV valve seems ok, use some starter fluid or brake-clean fluid to spray around anywhere there is a gasket or sealing ring: I/M gasket, T/B gasket, fuel injector o-rings, etc. Spray targeted bursts at these locations and see if there is a change in the idle... if you discover a leak, repair it as necessary.
Good luck.
Remove the intake tube so that you can see inside the front of the throttle body.
There are two ports inside the mouth of the throttle body just in front of the throttle blade... and when viewed from the passenger side of the car, are located at approximately the 8-o'clock and 10-o'clock positions.
Crank the car and warm the engine to operating temp. Now let it idle (as best as it can anyway). First, wearing a Mechanix type glove, place a finger over the hole at the 8 o'clock position. IF the car idles down to normal, then your issue is the fast idle thermo valve, which is bolted to the bottom of the throttle body. The fix is to open up the unit and tighten the plunger cap inside, or replace the FITV.
If there is no change, move your finger to the 10 o'clock position. If you cover this hole completely, the car should idle at 500 rpm or possibly stall. If it doesn't, you will need to clean the IACV or replace it with a known good one and re-test.
If it does not change the idle speed or "hunting" (up and down cyclic idle), you have a significant vacuum leak. It could be the PCV valve, so do not forget to pinch that hose closed close to the intake manifold and see if there is a change.
If the PCV valve seems ok, use some starter fluid or brake-clean fluid to spray around anywhere there is a gasket or sealing ring: I/M gasket, T/B gasket, fuel injector o-rings, etc. Spray targeted bursts at these locations and see if there is a change in the idle... if you discover a leak, repair it as necessary.
Good luck.
#5
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
Here is a quick test:
Remove the intake tube so that you can see inside the front of the throttle body.
There are two ports inside the mouth of the throttle body just in front of the throttle blade... and when viewed from the passenger side of the car, are located at approximately the 8-o'clock and 10-o'clock positions.
Crank the car and warm the engine to operating temp. Now let it idle (as best as it can anyway). First, wearing a Mechanix type glove, place a finger over the hole at the 8 o'clock position. IF the car idles down to normal, then your issue is the fast idle thermo valve, which is bolted to the bottom of the throttle body. The fix is to open up the unit and tighten the plunger cap inside, or replace the FITV.
If there is no change, move your finger to the 10 o'clock position. If you cover this hole completely, the car should idle at 500 rpm or possibly stall. If it doesn't, you will need to clean the IACV or replace it with a known good one and re-test.
If it does not change the idle speed or "hunting" (up and down cyclic idle), you have a significant vacuum leak. It could be the PCV valve, so do not forget to pinch that hose closed close to the intake manifold and see if there is a change.
If the PCV valve seems ok, use some starter fluid or brake-clean fluid to spray around anywhere there is a gasket or sealing ring: I/M gasket, T/B gasket, fuel injector o-rings, etc. Spray targeted bursts at these locations and see if there is a change in the idle... if you discover a leak, repair it as necessary.
Good luck.
Remove the intake tube so that you can see inside the front of the throttle body.
There are two ports inside the mouth of the throttle body just in front of the throttle blade... and when viewed from the passenger side of the car, are located at approximately the 8-o'clock and 10-o'clock positions.
Crank the car and warm the engine to operating temp. Now let it idle (as best as it can anyway). First, wearing a Mechanix type glove, place a finger over the hole at the 8 o'clock position. IF the car idles down to normal, then your issue is the fast idle thermo valve, which is bolted to the bottom of the throttle body. The fix is to open up the unit and tighten the plunger cap inside, or replace the FITV.
If there is no change, move your finger to the 10 o'clock position. If you cover this hole completely, the car should idle at 500 rpm or possibly stall. If it doesn't, you will need to clean the IACV or replace it with a known good one and re-test.
If it does not change the idle speed or "hunting" (up and down cyclic idle), you have a significant vacuum leak. It could be the PCV valve, so do not forget to pinch that hose closed close to the intake manifold and see if there is a change.
If the PCV valve seems ok, use some starter fluid or brake-clean fluid to spray around anywhere there is a gasket or sealing ring: I/M gasket, T/B gasket, fuel injector o-rings, etc. Spray targeted bursts at these locations and see if there is a change in the idle... if you discover a leak, repair it as necessary.
Good luck.
#6
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
The car is worse after cleaning everything now I have some type of liquid dripping out my intake filter and white smoke out my exhaust and really bad low idle please help
#7
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
Worn ignition components wont cause a surging/hunting idle. You cleaned the IAC already and that is good that is most likely the problem, make sure you clean out the coolant passages in the IAC as well and make sure the coolant lines that go to it are not plugged up. Next clean the throttle body out really well with carb cleaner, you may even want to remove it to clean it. Clean the plate and the passages in the TB really well, those passages go to the IAC valve. If that does not fix the issue then retest with a known good IAC.
The liquid coming out of your intake is probably oil and the smoke out of the exhaust points to oil as well but I guess it could be coolant anything is possible. Replace your PCV valve it may be stuck open causing basically a vacuum leak and sucking oil into the motor and blowing it into the intake where it is getting burned by the motor. Do this and report back.
The liquid coming out of your intake is probably oil and the smoke out of the exhaust points to oil as well but I guess it could be coolant anything is possible. Replace your PCV valve it may be stuck open causing basically a vacuum leak and sucking oil into the motor and blowing it into the intake where it is getting burned by the motor. Do this and report back.
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#8
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
Cleaned out all tht already and I took off the throttle body when I cleaned it too, so try a new iacv? And new Pcv?
Ps I found out why it was dripping and why there was white smoke, I accidentally switched up 2 of the hoses but I fixed tht so no more smoke or liquid dripin out the filter jus a really bad valve, I don't even wana drive it how it is
Ps I found out why it was dripping and why there was white smoke, I accidentally switched up 2 of the hoses but I fixed tht so no more smoke or liquid dripin out the filter jus a really bad valve, I don't even wana drive it how it is
#9
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
Cleaned out all tht already and I took off the throttle body when I cleaned it too, so try a new iacv? And new Pcv?
Ps I found out why it was dripping and why there was white smoke, I accidentally switched up 2 of the hoses but I fixed tht so no more smoke or liquid dripin out the filter jus a really bad valve, I don't even wana drive it how it is
Ps I found out why it was dripping and why there was white smoke, I accidentally switched up 2 of the hoses but I fixed tht so no more smoke or liquid dripin out the filter jus a really bad valve, I don't even wana drive it how it is
#12
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
try this http://www.team-integra.net/forum/bl...peed-gen3.html
if not is you'r timing on both ign/mech.
if not is you'r timing on both ign/mech.
#14
Honda-Tech Member
#17
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
Some Honda motors dont have a coolant system bleed off screw if yours does not the run the car with the rad cap off until the thermostat opens and the fan comes on, make sure the rad it full of coolant and you are done. Sucks man you are having all kinds of problems.
#18
Honda-Tech Member
Re: 95 civic with d16z6 swap
also helps to jack the front of the car up or park it on an incline so the radiator cap is the hiighest point of the system to help push all the air out of the system....
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Honda CRX / EF Civic (1988 - 1991)
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06-21-2003 05:38 AM