NY's_Freshest

I wired up a fuel pump kill switch and was working perfectly for about 1 day until today I had to fix the connections because they were loose. I tested the switch to see which side would kill the fuel. As I left it in the kill position I removed all connections to make them tight because the 16 gauge wire doesn't exactly fit in the spades (whatever its called).

So as I plug everything back in, the car did not show anything. The 15A fuse was not blown at all. I turn the car to II and III and tried to start it but nothing. I do not get any lights on the cluster at all. Nothing! It's completely dead. I don't think it could be the battery.

(Do keep it mind that I forgot to get male spades and had O ring connections instead. I took a wrench and formed them to fit in the fuse connection holes.)

Former User

Do the headlights and flashers work?

How did you wire the switch?

NY's_Freshest

Headlights, taillights, and all interior lights work. No blinkers or anything else work. I know battery works. I wired up a basic non-lit 16amp on off switch conncted to a ATC style inline fuse holder. I get no battery light or anything. I need this car up and running ASAP. I don't see any blown fuses at all. I've might've shorted out something major on the fuse box. This was wired up to the 15amp fuel pump fuse.

Former User

What interior lights work?

Former User

15A dash fuse 24? Or 15A hood fuse 31?

NY's_Freshest

Instrument panel, climate control, and ceiling light works. Dash fuse #24. This was all done on the interior fuse box.

I forget to add: I was an idiot and forgot to crimp the connections to the gauge wire. No wonder why I was annoyed it was loose. As I was fixing the wires, I never disconnected the negative battery terminal while I was fixing it. Idiot me I most likely shorted something. I also forget to get male spades to plug into the fuse insert connection on the box. I took 2 O rings and squeezed them using some wrench to make them fit into the fuse slots. (I know it works, because they fit in the slots just fine and the switch has worked haha).

Former User

Check whether hood fuse 39 or 41 is blown. Do this by testing for voltage to body ground at both bolts on either side of the fuses.

NY's_Freshest

For now I can say that neither fuse is blown. I am not sure if I have a voltmeter in the garage. Tomorrow I can check for voltage.

Former User

You can only be sure by testing for voltage on both sides of the fuse.


You need a multimeter to sort out the problem.

NY's_Freshest

Either way, even if both sides do get voltage... Why does that effect everything else? What does blowing 1 fuse controlling the fuel pump have to do with eliminating blinker function and battery feed, etc.?

Former User

Fuse 39 supplies voltage to the ignition switch.

Fuse 41 supplies voltage everywhere except the exterior and interior lights and hazard lights.

Test those two fuses before you do anything else.

NY's_Freshest

Ah, okay makes sense. If the fuses have less than .05 ohms does that mean it's blown? Do I have to get a whole new box?

Former User

Test for voltage (volts not Ohms) and then go from there.

NY's_Freshest

Okay, I'll test for voltage tomorrow and get back to you on that.

NY's_Freshest

Here is a picture of the switch.



The bent O rings to fit into fuse slots:

NY's_Freshest

I get no voltage readings from the dash fuse box. I did use a circuit screwdriver tester too and it lit up from touching both the hood fuses 39 and 41 and I also get energy from the battery. I guess I shorted out the dash fuse box? -_-

Former User

Did fuses 39 and 41 have voltage on both side bolts?

In general, dash fuses will not have voltage unless the key is in ON(II).

Former User

What specific fuse slot did you insert the wires?

NY's_Freshest

I checked for voltage with II on. No, the 2 hood fuses only have voltage on one side. If I'm not mistaken I think that goes for all of the fuses in the hood box. Which slot did I insert those rings? The 15amp fuel pump slot of course. That's the whole purpose of the switch.

Edit: I used the circuit test screwdriver for the hood fuses. Each fuse slot in that box has only 1 side that lights up the tester.

Former User

Having voltage on ONLY one side of any fuse means it is blown. Period.

NY's_Freshest

Well I didn't mean voltage lol, I apologize. I used the screwdriver tester (touching negative terminal) for the hood fuses to see if they all light. They do. If I touch one slot of the fuse holder it lights, the other doesn't. The fuses aren't blown though. It's just a natural thing I'm guessing. If I touch both sides of the fuses plugged in, they both light.

NY's_Freshest

I honestly think it's the dash fuse box itself. Fuses are fine.

Former User

I don't understand your test. The test I suggested is done with the fuse installed not removed from the fuse box. Is there voltage on BOTH sides of fuse 39 and 41? There's no reason to move forward until this question is answered unambiguously.

NY's_Freshest

The fuses were never removed. Yes, both sides do have voltage.

Former User