Reaper666

I've been searching the forum for years and never really needed to make a post until now. I'm pretty experienced with cars, this one is about my 46th vehicle (this is my first EG), and I've done virtually everything i can think of to fix it. Maybe I'm over thinking it, maybe it's some random D16Z6 thing in unaware of but here goes nothing .

The Problem
The car starts hesitating/busting out/sputtering at 1500 rpm every time. Hot or cold, doesn't matter. When taking off it will rev through the dead spot but you can hear a difference in the engine from 1500 and up. It sounds weaker, but very faintly. For the most part, I can drive through the issue. But around town at low speed, keeping it away from 1500-2000 rpm range is a little taxing. The only codes are 9 CYP sensor, 20 ELD, 19 A/T lock up solenoid (da fuq?), And 25.... which I cannot find to save my life. I uploaded a video of the CEL codes just in case I'm reading it wrong.
https://youtu.be/yd088gSwOOE

I know the car has bad pistons/valve seals. Blows blue smoke pretty bad under has heavy acceleration and when I accelerate after coasting in gear. I don't that relevant, just putting as much detail as possible.
The car
95 eg coupe ex.
D16Z6 5spd
225k

What I've done
New TPS
New MAP sensor
Swapped on B18 throttle body
Swapped on an different Z6 throttle body (with OEM tps and map)
Cleaned IACV
Replaced IACV (used)
Tightened fast idle valve
Replaced check valve as brake booster
Replaced PCV
New dizzy cap, rotor, and coil
Replaced entire dizzy (used)
Replaced and cleaned vtec solenoid/pressure switch and replaced gaskets (was leaking)
New plugs and wires (both NGK)
Used a friends chipped P28
Checked timing
Adjusted timing (to see if it'd move to a different rpm)
Replace temp sensor
Changed entire fuse box (used)
Cleaned/replaced grounds


I'm sure I'm forgetting some stuff. I've been chasing this ghost for a couple months.

Former User

Did you calibrate the new TPS?

The blinking light in the video is the SRS (airbag system) warning light, not the CEL.

Does the CEL blink or stay on?

https://honda-tech.com/honda-civic-d...lists-1901557/

Reaper666

I did. Then I put a whole new(used) throttle body on with a factory mounted tps. So I know that one was right. The last owner did a hack job on this car. When I got it I assumed there was no CEL and was told the SRS light was on BC it had been wrecked in the front. After this problem started, I jumped the ecu to see if maybe it had a code stored but want giving a light.... and the SRS light started blinking. I'm assuming somehow he jacked up the wiring and the SRS light is actually my CEL.

Update: changed the fuel pressure regulator. Discovered a broken vac line coming off the intake manifold to the purge valve. After looking up a picture I realized there's supposed to be a little cap on top of the purge valve. I fixed the vacuum line, still nothing. To the best of my knowledge, the purge valve isn't important correct? Assuming I could just bypass it?

Also, nothing was changed when the problem started happening. Everything was changed after while chasing this issue.

Also note, it doesn't idle high when cold started like most cars. It idles consistently around 600-900 rpm regardless.

Former User

If you turn the key from OFF to ON(II), the CEL should light for at least 2 seconds while the fuel pump primes.

If the CEL never lights, then the previous owner may have removed the bulb, or the bulb is burned out.

So you did not calibrate the TPS?

mk378

CEL will come on steady when you put the jumper in and turn key on but there are no codes. CEL also should come on when you turn the key on but don't start. If the CEL never lights up at all it is likely that someone has removed the bulb.

Realize that these engines make basically zero hp at 1500 rpm. It's not a V8. You should choose a gear to keep rpm above 2000 when trying to accelerate.

Reaper666

I'm not really sure what happened, but looking at the video the SRS light is blinking codes. Where the CEL should be, never lights up.

Yes I calibrated the TPS. Then thought maybe i got a bad one and did a warranty exchange for another. Then put on a whole different throttle body that had a factory tps still intact with the factory rivets which is currently on the car. This TB came off a friend's engine that he just pulled from a perfectly fine running car. Come to think of it, when we put his ecu in my car I still threw the same codes. I've reset my own ecu 2-3 times while changing parts.


I know they don't make any power, but it sputters really bad at 1500 until I gas through it. Cruising around if it drops below 2k in gear it will buck violently. The first few months I had the car it never had this issue. My driving pattern or habits haven't changed so I know I wasn't over looking it. But the bucking is horrible and hard to avoid around town. Esp with all of the unavoidable construction I have to drive through daily.


Honestly my fear is that if I don't find the issue then over I start swapping sensors and such over to the other Z6 I'm rebuilding, the problem will carry over. Though I've either replaced or borrowed virtually every electronic from sensors to the ecu and nothing has changed it so I'm pretty sure it's not a sensor issue.

Former User

Fix the CEL. There may be important CEL codes that will help solve the problem.

The blinking SRS light mean the airbag system has a malfunction.

Reaper666

Watch the way it blinks in the video. It's blinking codes like the ecu. Odd I know, but I'm pretty sure somehow it's been rigged up to light up there. Prop not the original cluster.


I think the PO use this as a parts car because it has rear drum brakes also which I'm pretty sure it should have disc. It's a hack job, but it was cheap.

Former User

^Highly unlikely.

I earlier posted the link below. READ IT.

FIX THE CEL.

mk378

The SRS has a computer too. If there is a fault in the airbag system it can be diagnosed by codes that blink on the SRS light. The 2 pin diagnostic jumper is connected in parallel to the ECU, SRS, and ABS (if equipped) and will make all of those computers run their own test and blink their own light.

The wiring for SRS is almost completely separate from the rest of the car. The SRS harnesses are bright yellow. When you pull the cluster to check the CEL, you will see the SRS light has its own separate board and yellow harness that connects to the SRS control computer.