SimpleAznMan

Car Info
1994 Honda Civic LX
D15B7, stock P06 ECU, 5spd tranny, 160xxx miles

Recently purchased this vehicle, previous owner replaced timing belt and water pump... When I bought the vehicle I knew it had problems... but it did run and drive and I was able to drive it home. When I first saw the vehicle, it idled weird... didn't have a lot of power when I pressed down the gas pedal.. And the previous owner said he thinks it maybe a clogged catalytic converter. So I drove it home, it died right in front of my house and I have not be able to start it since then. It will crank, but it will not start.

Here is a list of what I did/found since I parked it
1. Checked timing, it is dead on... not advanced or retarded even by a notch
2. Fuel pump does prime, and there is gas in the tank
3. Checked for spark, I found that the ignition coil was bad... used a voltmeter and did not find resistance between the test points. I tested a second ignition coil off of an old parts car and it tested good so I went ahead and installed the good one. I took the ICM to an auto parts store and it tested good. I have also put in some new NGK spark plugs, replaced cap and rotor as well...
4. Tested the starter for giggles, and the gear kicked out strong and functioned properly.

So quick recap, vehicle DID RUN... although bogged down in power when it did and WILL NOT START after it was parked. I do have timing correct, I have gas, and I have spark.

My questions
1. Can a clogged cat converter completely prevent a car from starting? I was under the assumption that it will do sudden/random die-offs but you can always start the car after and drive it short distances. Right now it will not start.. only crank.
2. If it is because of the clogged cat converter, how do I relieve all the backed up pressure from the system?
3. Any other suggestions as to what it may be?

Thanks.

91siBoost

sounds like bad ignitor..when mine went bad for the first time it took me 3 days to figure it out cuz. timing was right i had gas, i had spark..jus not spark at the right time!!

Estee.Flows

A buddy of mine was having the same issue, he was getting fuel, spark, and air, but still the car wouldn't start, once the ignitor was replace, the car started right up... As far as the clogged catalytic converter goes, if it's completely clogged and there's no pressure being released from the exhaust then there no way the engines going to be be able turn, trapped pressure, however, never once have I seen a catalytic converter clogged enough to the point where the car wouldn't start... You can try unbolting your catalytic converter from your exhaust manifold piping down below and see if that solves the problem, however I'm still fixed on the ignitor. Try buying a new one when you get the chance, sometimes they'll show up as properly functioning but will counteract as soon as you attempt to start the car.

SimpleAznMan

Brand new ICM today, still won't start.

Sk33t-EM1

Check your ig coils. one or 2 of em might have gone bad...

Vtecruddy

maybe the coil from the distributer gone bad. Have it replace and give us an update.

SimpleAznMan

Brand new distributor today, it will start... but its a rough start and idles around 900RPM. However, its still not as responsive as it should be (I had 3 other D15B7 before).

When it started today I let it sit and run for about 15 mins to warm up... Each start after that was still pretty rough.

I dont think its a clogged converter anymore, if anything probably water froze inside cuz of the crappy cold weather we are having right now... exhaust was coming out just fine out the rear end.

So we now know ECU is good... because it will run the car, I have a spark... but maybe a weak spark? (Even with a new dizzy, spark plugs)

New spark plug wires?

Vtecruddy

changes each spark plug wire's for new one, and make sure the wire is in good condition (just an advice)

Linked

i dont like the guessing that led you to buy parts without properly diagnosing (seeing as you know how to use a voltmeter)

you said after you replaced the coil, it started and ran but badly? and then when parked afterwards it wouldnt start?

start by recreating the problem by starting the engine when its cold after a night

if it starts, let it idle until its at norm temp and allow it to die on its own (dont turn it off manually)

if it does die off on its own then its most likely an intermittent problem associated with heat (confirm this by checking for spark with a SPARK TESTER, testing with a regular spark plug out of the cylinder gives false readings

these should have been your diagnosing

components affected by heat is the coil, the spark plug wires (common), or accosiated distributor wiring

when its at normal temp, and engine has died, check resistance between the spark plug wires to spec.

start off with these step to knock down some possibilities

SimpleAznMan

Here is a more step by step version of what I did

1. Checked timing and fuel pump, both checked out fine
2. Checked for spark, no spark (only replaced spark plugs prior to checking for spark)
3. Took out starter to test at Auto Zone, starter came out fine
4. Went home and took the distributor apart, tested the ignition coil and ignition control module. Results were ignition coil was bad, ignition control module was good. Replaced ignition coil with a used (but known to be good, and I tested it too to make sure it was good) ignition coil.
5. Turned key, motor cranks, but will not start
6. Went back out to Auto Zone and picked up a new dizzy that has new ignition coil and ignition control module included. Installed new unit, double checked spark plug wire positions, dried spark plugs (there was gas on them, cylinder #4 had black tip even tho it is brand new... spark plugs in cylinder #1-3 were clean with a little bit of gas on them), reinstalled spark plugs.
7. Turned key, motor crank, rough start.
8. Let it run for roughly 10-15 mins to let it smooth things out and warm up. While it was warming up the idle was at a steady 950RPM. I did notice that when it fully warmed up, the idle started bouncing and would lose power to where it killed the car. However, I was able to start it again immediately after, but still a rough start.

By the end of the day
Car now cranks over and runs, but has a rough start... and possibly rough idle/lose power when warmed up. When the car did start and run, outside temperature was about 35 degrees (I am from Kansas). I also found out the previous owner did not have enough motor oil in the engine... I did an oil change (or added oil rather) between step 6 and 7 above. Exhaust comes out strong out the tailpipe, thus I no longer believe it is a clogged cat converters fault.

I can't think of anything else that would cause a weak spark/no spark to any cylinders other then wires but would like to hear opinions.


Thanks for everyones suggestions/comments so far.

Linked

you have the multimeter, check resistance of all your spark plug wires while the car runs rough(when heated up)

drnewine

Could be a fuel issue caused by a bad MAP sensor.
To test this, unplug the wire going into the sensor. With the key on ACC (2nd position before starting the engine) plug the wire back in the sensor. You should immediately hear the sound of your fuel injectors working. If not, try the steps again a couple of times. If you do hear the injectors come on right after you plug the wires, your car will now start. This means the MAP sensor needs to be replaced.
My 1994 honda civic engine cranks but intermittently wouldn't start. Replacing the MAP sensor (located right above the air intake manifold) solved the problem immediately.

civic402lx

Please pay attention to the date if you would like to provide feedback. Last post dated back to 2011.. this thread is not active. The op may not even own the vehicle any longer. Feedback is good but only help on active post.