MrRogers21

I need some diagnostics help if at all possible. had another thread but I think its dead.
Tachometer and Speedometer seem to jump while applying throttle, causing what seems to be a misfire/hesitation. Around 60-70MPH on highway the speedometer and tachometer will jump around and the CEL light will flash with the Clicking in the dash (my friend said it sounds like a relay clicking)
I am also getting very poor gas mileage (around 20 mixed highway/city) I was also getting repeated code (41) for O2 sensor until I replaced the O2 sensor.
The car has an aftermarket muffler (some coffee can muffler from Advance auto, No branding visible)
The D4 Light has never lit up while in gear, all other lights work perfectly fine.

What I have done so far:
New Plugs + Wires
New Rotor + Cap
New O2 Sensor (Fixed CEL code 41)
New ground cable for Transmission>chassis ground.
New Ignition Control Module
New Coil
Re-soldered the main relay.
Tested the Alternator (good)
Tested possible bad wiring from aftermarket stereo (removed stereo)
I have checked all of the grounds inside the engine bay, they are solid.
I have checked all of the fuses and they are solid without any corrosion.
I have checked the cluster and everything appears to be fine.
new distributor Inner Cover
New Distributor O-Ring (for oil leak)

if anyonecan provide any helpful suggestions, it will be appreciated.
Thank you.


here is a video of me giving it WOT at 45mph, it bogs and gives Flashing CEL + Clicking

http://youtu.be/hbE5ur3PM7A



here are some videos of me driving (daily route to work)
there is no CEL blinking and bad misfires, only the speedo/tach going whacky randomly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1-x_i...feature=relmfu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUY-1...feature=relmfu

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uW7b_...el_video_title

lazlong

The O2 sensor went bad because of the mis-fires. If you continue to drive it with it mis-firing you'll ruin your cat. You have a PM.

Former User

Any new codes since replacing the O2 sensor? Did you reset the ECU?

Start by testing the coil and igniter unit.

The jumping gauges may be a ground problem.

MrRogers21

There have been no new codes and I thought the ECU resets every time you take the key from the ignition?. I might be mistaken, just thought I read that on a thread somewhere on here.

Have not tested the Coil and Igniter unit yet.
that can be something I can check next weekend or later this week.

Just checked the voltage for alternator and it was within specs, so I'm sure the alternator should be sound.

How long do you think I have of City driving before doing some severe damage to the new O2 sensor? if doesn't seem to misfire as bad while driving in town? my route to work and home is 100% city (30-45mph)

Thank you for the info everyone.
I'll keep this thread posted with updates.

lazlong

If you have to drive it to work be very easy on it and keep the speed down as far as is it's safe to.

Former User

No, the ECU does not reset on its own. Click the CEL sticky at the top.

How did you do the test and what were the results? Did you test the alternator under no-load and high-load conditions?

MrRogers21

I used a multimeter on the battery terminals, 20v scale.
checked without key in ignition, was 13.8ish
was 14.2-14.4 Idle
Then turned on lights, stereo and blew heater maxed and didn't dip below 14.0
Also while starting the car it only dipped to 11.75



Was looking at a manual and realized I might of found a solution, The Inner cap/guard for the distributor was about 1/4 there, looks like it had been sliced, and the rotor was in fact rubbing like previously stated, if the inner cap was basically non-existent, could this cause the Ignition control module to go bad over time? I have only had this car for 9 days, the previous owner that works at a parts store had it for 4-5months. I will check the connections to the ICM and also do the voltage checks on it either tomorrow or later this week after work.

Thanks.

MrRogers21

sorry for double post, just noticed the ECU CEL Jumper plug is blue, the CEL thread that is stickied at the top it mentioned that this plug should be Grey for my model (92-95) .. Mine is blue like the 96-00, might be something minor or might be a different ECU, not sure I will check that out.

Former User

Yes, a broken or missing inner cover can lead to damage of the coil and ICM.

Should be fine. What colors are the two wires?

MrRogers21

I am not sure, I just know it is a blue connector. I'll reset the ECU as well.

EDIT: I'll check the wires on my way home, less than an hour or so.
also quick question: when I bought the car I noticed the two connectors near the ECU (2pin and 3pin) were not connected to anything, should they be connected to something or just free and tucked away? Thanks.

MrRogers21

Update: Just got home, the Wires are in fact Brown and Black, with a green sleeve on it.

Reset the ECU by pulling the 7.5A fuse for 2minutes, drove it home and had a short CEL shortly after ignition with some dash clicking. no CEL on the drive home.. checked CEL code when I got home before turning off engine, was solid CEL light without blinking.

0 (defined by CEL remaining on steady both without and with the service connector jumped) - indicates ECU power or ground problem when engine will not start; begin by checking the three main relay fuses and the G101 ground attached to the thermostat housing.

so... I'm hoping it is only a bad ground somewhere.

Thanks for all of the help and I'll keep updating when I can get time to work on it more.



EDIT: also need to add that my SRS light blinks when I short the CEL jumper. Don't know if that means anything in combination with the solid CEL.

Former User

If the CEL was not lit without the service connector jumped, then you have no codes rather than code 0.

The blinking SRS is showing stored codes for the airbag system.

TOO MUCH TORQUE

you need a new ignitor. everything is pointing towards for that for misfire and jumping tachometer.

MrRogers21

Thanks everyone for your input, I'll be granny driving until friday when I get paid. I was pretty tough on it earlier today on the interstate, testing out which RPM and speeds it was actually misfiring at.. might of been flooring it lol (which causes hesitation and chugging).. but now that I am sure it will ruin the new O2 sensor I will be very careful driving it until friday.

MrRogers21

Took a look at the ICM and it is in fact pretty rough shape.. going to buy an inner cover and ICM this weekend for sure. Thanks everyone again for the help. I will keep you all posted on the fix.

MrRogers21

Ok, I give up.. I just replaced the Ignitor (ICM), No change...
Changed the tranny>>chassis Ground wire with a brand new one. No change...
Tested the Coil while the engine was warm, the first test from +(A) to -(B) which said 0.6-0.8 Ohms at room temp was 0.9-1.2ish (could be a bad mutimeter) but the 2nd test from +(A) to 2nd coil was within specs, at around 17k.

I'm a little flustered at the moment.. a guy at the parts store also suggested I check the main relay.. it was a little bit dingy looking but all of the solder points had decent connection, I went ahead and resoldered every connection and this didn't fix anything either.

Do I need to reset the ECU for it to take effect? or simply changing out the ICM should of fixed it right?

any comments or suggestions are appreciated. Thanks.

>>>>>>Picture of Main relay Before I soldered it.

lazlong

The bottom left point doesn't look real good but, it's too fuzzy to tell.

How to diagnose cracked solder joints: http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/mainr...mainrelay.html

MrRogers21

it has an aftermarket stereo, I unhooked the stereo harness and still has a jumpy tach/speedo even in park the speedo jumps and causes the Odometer to start moving..
I'm at a loss, if anyone has anything else I could test or replace/fix please reply Thanks everyone so far for the suggestions and help.

EDIT: just talked to a friend and he said it sounded like a map sensor problem. any ideas?

MrRogers21

I just read on another website forum about someone getting poor gas mileage due to the car never reaching the "optimal" temp. my car also might have this problem which would cause it to run rich and get poor gas mileage. my gauge never moves past about 1/4th-1/3 of the temp, and the 1/2 marker is "optimal"....
even if replacing my thermostat fixes my MPG problem, I am unsure if it is at all related to my tach/speedo and bogging /misfire problem that I have.

I'm glad I have plenty of free time at work to research this hehe

EDIT: adding video link of what happens when I am rolling 45mph and punch it,
it boggs down and doesn't want to accelerate.

http://youtu.be/hbE5ur3PM7A

MrRogers21

Going to check the Throttle position sensor and possibly change the fuel filter by the weekend.

automaticpimpin

looks like a dizzy but i think thats been gone over

jr_nahatch801

check your speed sensor bro!!!! Try a different one

MrRogers21

OK this weekend I have a lot on my plate once more.

in this order I will be:
Replacing my Inner Distributor cap
Replacing Distributor O-ring
Checking/cleaning my intake
Check the ECU and make sure its the correct one for my car.
Replacing fuel filter After checking Fuel pressure
Testing a new cluster if I can get a hold of one
Checking a new Throttle Position Sensor
Check a new VSS
Checking a new Map Sensor
if it comes down to it, buying a whole new Distributor. and testing that, I know I need an O-ring at least because mine is leaking all over the transmission.

if I can not get this car running right by next month I might be forced to have a shop look at it and try to diagnose the problem.

kp

What? No. Terrible advice.

MrRogers21

will be replacing fuel pump this weekend possibly.