88CRX_SiR

So I've been fighting with the B16A2 in my hatchy for far too long. A persistent oil leak, despite a new oil pump and 2 new front main seals, has driven me to the point of insanity. So I have given up on it. And have decided it is time to go bigger.



Here is the car in question. Bought her during my first deployment and proceeded to sink a **** load of money into brakes and suspension. Then bought a "fresh out the machine shop" B16A2 and swapped it in. Nothing but problems since.

So went to pull a part and yanked a B20Z2 out a CRV that had been rolled with 321k on the clock.



Motor looked really good, well maintained. Still had factory crosshatch on the cylinder walls, bearings were still within spec, and there isn't a mark on the crankshaft.

Sent block off to be inspected and honed. No cracks found, and the cylinders all measured out at 3.308 in. Still at factory specs!



Still left to do:

Have rods relieved for ARP rod bolts and shot peened.
ACL bearings and thrust washers.
Hastings rings.
Cometic 2 layer B20V headgasket.
GE LSVTEC conversion kit.
ARP head studs for LSVTEC

GSR water pump, timing belt, and tensioner are sitting in their box. Oil pump, front and rear main seals, oil pan gasket, and new woodruff keys on the way from majestic.

According my math, I should be looking at 10.1:1 compression with PHK pistons. Looking at getting a Phearable premium tune chipset to drop into my already socketed P28. They still any good?

DumpdEJ6

You could go higher on the compression if you wanted, I have around 12:1 on my LSVTEC. Not trying to turn your thread into a for sale post, but if you wanted a BNIB GE LSVTEC conversion (minus the Cometic head gasket, as I only have an 81.5mm one) I've got one I'll sell for $200 shipped, which is about $35 less than from GE themselves.

Regardless of whether you want the kit, good luck with the conversion. I'm very happy with mine!

88CRX_SiR

Yeah, I know but this is gonna be built on a budget and higher compression piston are out of what the wife will let me spend.

However, I may take you up on that. Let me discuss it with the boss, lol.

88CRX_SiR

So I finally got around to figuring out what bearings I need for the motor.

All green for the rods, but the mains are 4 different sizes, yellow, pink, brown, and green. So that's gonna be a LOT more expensive than ACL, and the wife is NOT going to be happy. FML.

ShinsenTuner

iTrader: (1)

On a cheap budget build, I'd reference 93egsleeper's (I believe) build thread. He used a B20 block with Nippon ITR style pistons with the stock B20 rods with ARP hardware machined in. It's a really potent build and honestly these engines do not need to be crazy to make power and be reliable.

With the right mix of cheap OTS internals and focusing on a good tune (and good quality major parts) these engines can easily put down 200-215whp and be rock solid.

88CRX_SiR

Rod bolts will be here tomorrow, then off to the machine shop to have the rods shot peened and have the ARP hardware installed.

Still working on the bearings. I may order ACL rod and thrust bearings, then OEM for the mains since they are 4 different sizes... And it would save me some money in case something else needs to replaced.